E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Dead in the water

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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #1  
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03 ML500
Dead in the water

Hey:

My 260E has not been working in like 6 weeks, since I have been driving my other car its not too big of a deal. The issue with my car is, when I start it, it immediatly stalls. If I push down on the gas, it stays running, but as soon as my foot comes off of the pedal, it dies. Seems as if it has something to do with the idling. I just changed the OVP relay about 6 months ago and it ran great until one time when I was driving it started to idle rough once more. Is there anything that I could check easily?

Thanks,
Craig
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Dead in the water

Check the Crankshaft position sensor. Unplug it and see if it makes a difference. If it makes no difference when unplugged then you should look into replacing it.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I had a similar issue, it was my MAS unit.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 10:46 AM
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1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
Idle Control Valve would be my first suggestion. It sounds like it's stuck closed.

Last edited by shdoug; Feb 26, 2008 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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okay, when I go home this weekend, I will try to find some time to check the idle control valve...since its the easiest fix and I can get to it in about 4 minutes...also, I have noticed that the hoses that lead to the ICV are cracked, i am sure that i causing problems...anyone know how difficult they are to change? They look like they go into the engine...
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:48 PM
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I would try tapping it with a screwdriver handle while you keep the engine running with your hand on the throttle.
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 04:16 PM
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When I started up the car after tapping on the idle control valve, the car still stalled after letting go of the throttle...when i unpluged the idle control valve, and removed my hand from the throttle, the car stayed idling...when I pluged it back in, the car stalled... I did this three times...does this confirm that the issue is with my idle control valve...and is it safe to drive with it unpluged?
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:19 PM
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1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
Originally Posted by carlson03
When I started up the car after tapping on the idle control valve, the car still stalled after letting go of the throttle...when i unpluged the idle control valve, and removed my hand from the throttle, the car stayed idling...when I pluged it back in, the car stalled... I did this three times...does this confirm that the issue is with my idle control valve...and is it safe to drive with it unpluged?
It should be safe, but I would replace it.
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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Okay, I definitely think that my is my idle control valve is stuck closed....I drove the car back to college and it ran great when it was warm and the idle control valve…so I was prepared to purchase another one, but these suckers are terribly expensive…do you think that I should just suck it up, and purchase another one brand new, or should I give a used one in working order on eBay a shot?
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Originally Posted by carlson03
Okay, I definitely think that my is my idle control valve is stuck closed....I drove the car back to college and it ran great when it was warm and the idle control valve…so I was prepared to purchase another one, but these suckers are terribly expensive…do you think that I should just suck it up, and purchase another one brand new, or should I give a used one in working order on eBay a shot?
Don't know what prices your finding but here is a site that has them for $218.00 as a remanufactured and the bosch OE for $300.00

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Anyone else think that I should just get a new one or try out a used one on ebay?
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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There are also websites that you can search for used parts and most of them will take returns. E-bay can be shifty (no return on electrical clauses)
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by carlson03
Anyone else think that I should just get a new one or try out a used one on ebay?
If it were me I would definitely buy one on ebay.
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