E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Deleting Resonator/RE-grounding amps

Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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STLe320's Avatar
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95 e320...sold the rest
Deleting Resonator/RE-grounding amps

Alright...So today on the way home, i was passed on this 2 lane street. I was doing about 40 in the 35, so this pissed me off. So I start tailgating him, he swerves acting like he was going to pass another car as well, but he was actually avoiding a dead car.... sitting right in the lane!!

SO...I have to swerve rather hard to the left into the oncoming lane and as i was doing this, my back and spun out a little, and once I corrected it the sub box had slid all over my trunk, knocking my amps wires out, all the grounds, and whatnot.

And I was thinking, and when I wired this car I did it rather carelessly and quick. The question I'm asking is: Where is a good/safe place to re-ground my amps??

About the resonator now... Is this a possible DIY if you have correct tools? I have a welder..sawzall.. Anything else I might need?

Maybe someone can give me some tips about doing it, I'll do a step by step progress of it. OH yeah...lol...I forgot! All I'm gonna say is Ultrasuede...
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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1990 300ce
dude! You not only need to think about where you should ground your amps, you need to secure your amp and sub to your car. I assume you put a fuse on your power wire that you ran to your amp, but even then, you could cause serious electrical problems for yourself if your power wire and ground came in contact with one another. Even worse, your box and amp could become a projectile in an accident and puncture your gas tank, putting gas and open electricity in the same place. Obviously not good. Especially if you drive like an a-hole (sorry bud but it's true) So before you even think about where you should ground your amp, you should come up with a good solution for bolting your amp and enclosure down.

okay, the lecture part of the class is over.

I grounded my amp to one of the bolts holding the gas tank on. It attaches to 4 long threaded studs. There was enough thread left on the stud that I was able to get a second nut on it and sandwich the ground cable (using a proper connector on the wire) between the two nuts. Good luck.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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1989 190E 3.0L 5speed
try a whole new exhaust - i went with magnaflo cattalytic converter and a flowmaster 50 series muffler. The sound is so good that I usually turn the music off, and roll the window down. It's a good deep rumble, and at high rpms sounds very aggressive. As far as power goes I didn't notice a very big difference, maybe a little bit, but power is'nt what I was shooting for when I put the new one on. Between the new cat/muffler and having a shop install will come to about $500

Or if you really want to just remove the resonator it should be easy enough. Just cut it out with a sawzall, and assuming you have some of the right tubing, weld the new piece on. I hope you have access to a lift?
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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it is doable, but you definitely need a lift.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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I had the box bolted down with L brackets on the left and right side of the box. So It was secure, and my amps are mounted on the top of the woofer box.

And I do have access to a lift at my friend's shop...so how much of a difference in sound would that make?
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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1989 190E 3.0L 5speed
Originally Posted by STLe320

And I do have access to a lift at my friend's shop...so how much of a difference in sound would that make?
I don't know if it would make any difference in sound because the muffler is still quite restrictive. Don't quote me on that though. If you want to make it sound nice seriously consider what I said before.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf190
flowmaster 50 series muffler.
any pics?
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