was really hot outside today, but not that hot...
my engine (while idling) got over 90deg., so it got scarry!
just did the air-fuel filter, fresh oil and filter, saprk plugs (NGK's) and wires, and resonator delete with a 53mm str8 pipe... sounds awsome by the way!
when I got out off the garage, for a test spin, everything was ok... temp was easy over 80, rising slowly at stops, but running great overall...
this took about 20minutes of city driving, when going real slow, I noticed my temp going all the way to the next line (90 or 9x deg. I think)... so I dodge the traffic, step on it, and the temp lowers to normal... but when I cut the engine, wile puting it back in the garage, it got a lot higher then that 90deg, line... scarry stuff!
any ideeas? what could be wrong? I mean everything else works ok, but my hood is hotter then necesary to fry an egg!

 

For some reason my 94 e320 gets real hot when driving through traffic and whatnot. The high was 75 on saturday in STL, and it was running very hot, even at night!

I can't figure out why it happens, but it never gets too hot to worry about

Also, how does your ce sound with the resonator deleted? I plan on doing this before summer starts and was wondering how nice it would be. I plan on getting a full system eventually, but this will have to do for now.

 

These "running hot" posts always come in when the weather warms up. Must be summer! The electric fan doesn't kick in until 105 Deg. C so 90 is fine. It will climb up when sitting at a stop unless the AC compressor is enabled, which overrides the electric fan on continuously.

I've never figured out why the engine driven fan is not enough to handle the entire heat load of the engine at idle. It seems MB did not design it that way. Older rear-wheel-drive American cars had no electric fans and did not run hot. Apparently the radiator and/or engine fan are undersized at idle speed.

 

thanks guys...
trust it's really hot! hand nurning hot! the electric fan spins, but I still got real close to the worst case scenario!
my water level is fine, fans are blowing, but no use...I didn't have this problem last summer, driping swet, and engine was cool as usual!

 

The hottest mine has ever gotten was between the line above 80 and 120. Right in the middle. I thought it was pretty hot when my I can hear my fan struggling to cool the engine down lol

 

for those of us with V-8's, the running hot thing is pretty much standard issue..often at over 100 degrees C. I have read that taking the belly pan off helps to some degree, although I have yet to try it myself.

There is also a DIY article on the net that allows you to get the fans to come on at 90 C instead of 100. Otherwise, MB seems pretty confident that 90+ C operating temperatures are OK in the W124. I am not so confident however.

 

like you guys need a radiator flush, buy some throw it in and flUSH THE HELL OUTTA UR RADIATORS! Trust me, did it to my C36, my car runs very cool now. Good luck!

 

I'm confused...

Engine cool, dripping sweat? What's hot, yourself or is it the car? As long as the temp gauge is not over 105, you should be ok but- a radiator flush won't hurt, and you might replace the thermostat to be safe.

 

the thermostat is acting up, and a radiator flush is in order... the fluid is some cheapo' brand I never heard of, but the fooll that did it, claimed it would work. I don't know how important the fluid is, but my money is on texaco "red stuff"...
and a new thermostat. got scared there for a sec., couse I just replaced the radiator (after my crash) and pipes, electric fan, and other bits and pices, so I naturally thought that they were acting up...

the engine was cool, while I was dripping sweat... before I recharged my cooling system...

will report back tomorow!

 

...yeah, well, not in my case. I have a new OEM radiator (Behr) a new thermostat and all new radiator hoses. Still stoopid hot running temps when the outside temps get over 85 degrees F. The W124 is a super-tight fit for a V-8 and there is no additional airflow through the engine bay (which I think was a big oversight on MB's part). I have been contemplating NACA ducts in the hood if I could find the right one's that would look good and pull air out of the engine bay.

 

im not getting how an engine operating within its operating parameters is some kind of oversight

 

the funny thing is last summer was ok...
easy operation, changing the thermostat.radiator was new, with fresh coolant, pipes too... flushed it.
my temps are ok now, just a little matter of the electric fan resistor.
I'm idleing at close to 100 (on really hot day, like yesterday), rolling at 8x deg., so that was the problem for me.
easy fix!
sorry for the panic in the first post, was really tired those days... lot's of work, no sleep! the engine was actually at the 120deg. line, and that scared me. my 90 deg line is actuall 100, where, I know it's ok, but when it went over that with no electric fan, I crapped my pants...

 

Info about the fans
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforu...d.php?t=193757

 

thanks, that was a good read...
still have a bit of trouble with understanding, my english not beeing that good, but I think I've got it...
I have no "low" fan, due to the faulty resistor...
by the way, the thermostat I bought, was an 87deg.
all seems fine now, but the resistor must be sorted out too, because hoter days are coming...

 

your english seems good to me on here at least lol

 

thanks dude! gota face the facts tho, talking tech stuff is hard, so it taking me longer to understand...
anyways, glad I paid them nuggeds on that "easy english" book+cd!

 

my benz dose the same thing all the time i think i might have a stuck thermostat ??? if it gose to high my auxiliary fan kicks in and it drops alot

 

my belly pan fell off 5months ago i have not seen much of a change

 

I know of maybe 3-5 really good plastics and elastomers that work well for a long time at elevated temperatures (+250F) and I am confident that few if any of them are under the hood of this car. Everything non-metallic get's unecessarily brittle in short order when under hood temps are this high and it could have been alleviated with a little forced airflow. That is my point.

 

Radiator flush, new thermostat and add water wetter.

~Cali

 

What everyone is missing is that you need to back flush the block as you can get scale and rust build up in the water jackets.

Also check the belt that drives the water pump along with the proper radiator cap.

I've maintained my system with antifreeze changes and system flush every two years since I took delivery of my coupe in May of 1988.

Even running twin turbos for almost a year doesn't give me temps higher then 85C in most high ambient temps....:y

 

HOW DO YOU BLEED THE COOLANT SYSTEM ON THE M104 24v ? Curious ... want to make sure I am doing the flush correctly...

 

Well, under exhaust #5 you have a drain plug for the block, once that and the rad is drained, the system is empty. Fill it up through the reservoir tank till its pretty much full and squeeze both upper and lower radiator hoses. Once the system stop "burping", fill it up again to the brim. Start the engine, set your heater on, leave the reservoir cap off and as the car warms up, pump the upper and lower hoses. Once you feel several solid burps out of the system, it should be done and you can close it up.

THO WATCH YOUR FINGERS AS THE BELT IS DARN CLOSE!!!!!!

 

cant you choose any hose after the water pump? or am i wrong?

 

By the way there is a bleed screw on the thermostat housing... FYI