Kombi to Sportline conversion -help needed
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
Yeah, I was stunned. He said he was cruising the forum, saw the pics and pulled up the ad on Craigslist, came by took a quick look and 5 minutes into the test drive bought it. It's his first Mercedes.
I'll take as many pics as I can I don't know how many my tech will let me take while he is putting in the parts but I'll see what I can do. Anything specific you want to see?
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'95 Smoke Silver S124
Yeah, I was stunned. He said he was cruising the forum, saw the pics and pulled up the ad on Craigslist, came by took a quick look and 5 minutes into the test drive bought it. It's his first Mercedes.
I'll take as many pics as I can I don't know how many my tech will let me take while he is putting in the parts but I'll see what I can do. Anything specific you want to see?
I'll take as many pics as I can I don't know how many my tech will let me take while he is putting in the parts but I'll see what I can do. Anything specific you want to see?
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'95 Smoke Silver S124
-Elliott
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
I am always open to as much info as i can find! Im still learning about all this stuff too, and if someone else has the $$$ to boldly go where i cant follow yet, any pictures at all will be appreciated... but since you arent doing it yourself i guess its a little much to ask for any procedure pics so i guess we'll settle for before and after
I'm still trying to figure out what stiffness of factory Sportline springs to get. Any ideas???
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
I'm out of town, but once I get back I'll go through the folder and post all p/ns.
Elliott:
http://www.speed-autoteile.com/
I imagine pics are for walking through how to do this? You can search the same topics and find a lot of information on "how-to". That's what I did before I started this venture. Search words like "spring compressor", "subframe", "swaybar", etc, etc...
Edit: 99% of my parts came from Rusty at buymbparts.com. Actually, everything having to do with my suspension and even the wheels came from Rusty. His pricing was just as good or better than anyone out there.
Elliott:
http://www.speed-autoteile.com/
I imagine pics are for walking through how to do this? You can search the same topics and find a lot of information on "how-to". That's what I did before I started this venture. Search words like "spring compressor", "subframe", "swaybar", etc, etc...
Edit: 99% of my parts came from Rusty at buymbparts.com. Actually, everything having to do with my suspension and even the wheels came from Rusty. His pricing was just as good or better than anyone out there.
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
Springs:
F - 124 321 30 04 (Sportline)
R - 124 324 28 04 (Sportline)
Struts:
F - 124 320 35 30 (Sportlne)
Swaybars:
R - 124 326 25 65 (500E)
Bushings - 210 326 08 81
F - 124 323 72 65 (500E)
Bushings - 124 323 45 85
Spring Pads:
F - 201 321 09 84
R - 201 325 09 44
Things to buy while you're at it:
Strut mounts - 124 320 14 44
I think that's it. If I missed something, I'll revise.
F - 124 321 30 04 (Sportline)
R - 124 324 28 04 (Sportline)
Struts:
F - 124 320 35 30 (Sportlne)
Swaybars:
R - 124 326 25 65 (500E)
Bushings - 210 326 08 81
F - 124 323 72 65 (500E)
Bushings - 124 323 45 85
Spring Pads:
F - 201 321 09 84
R - 201 325 09 44
Things to buy while you're at it:
Strut mounts - 124 320 14 44
I think that's it. If I missed something, I'll revise.
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
Your strut #'s are recommended on .w124performance.com but buymbparts and the E-Class Bible specified 124-320-60-30? Thoughts?
I noticed you used the heavier front spring instead of the 124-321-29-04 Sportline model. Just curious why..
many thanks
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
I went through this with several members with vast experience and nobody could unearth why these two numbers existed. What was generally decided is that one superceded the other, as it does show up on some EPCs and not on other lists. I'm happy with the ones I'm running now, would be interested to know what the 60-30s do to the ride. With that said, it was also recommended that I run the springs made for the heavier (US class) wagon, especiially since I was doind modding to the front suspensions, ie larger wheels/tires, etc. I also use the kombi for cargo transport, being it going to a film shoot or a weekend getaway. That's why I opted for the "stiffer/heavier" springs. My list shows them as 'sportline' also...
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
I went to the MB dealer and talked to an "oldtimer" as they put it that has been there for decades. He felt the 35/30 struts were for Euro cars and the 60/30 were for the heavier US cars, they are essentially the same strut just valved differently. So I ended up with the 60/30s, I'll let you know how they ride Robert.
You had mentioned to change the whole front Lower Control Arms w/sportline bushings as it was just a little bit more than the bushing kits. Maybe the prices have changed but list was quoted as $224 total for both the left and right bushing kits BUT almost $1100 for the two LCAs!
But, the "oldtimer" felt there was no reason to change bushings unless they were bad as the wagons not only have the sportline swaybars with sportline bushings but also the LCAs and rear subframe come with sportline bushings already. Hopefully this is correct and my bushings look ok because....
The worst news is that it is going to cost more to put in the 500e rear sway bar than it is for putting in the front struts, front and rear springs, front 500e swaybar and a new set of accumulators combined! The book states 7 HOURS for the rear sway bar alone!!!!!!!
With the 17" wheels did you or anybody add the AMG spring travel limiting washer on the piston rod over the stop buffer? Part # HWA 124 323 0144? It is shown on the official AMG instructions on w124performance site. The part number although does not come up as a good or available part at the dealer. Help......thanks
You had mentioned to change the whole front Lower Control Arms w/sportline bushings as it was just a little bit more than the bushing kits. Maybe the prices have changed but list was quoted as $224 total for both the left and right bushing kits BUT almost $1100 for the two LCAs!
But, the "oldtimer" felt there was no reason to change bushings unless they were bad as the wagons not only have the sportline swaybars with sportline bushings but also the LCAs and rear subframe come with sportline bushings already. Hopefully this is correct and my bushings look ok because....
The worst news is that it is going to cost more to put in the 500e rear sway bar than it is for putting in the front struts, front and rear springs, front 500e swaybar and a new set of accumulators combined! The book states 7 HOURS for the rear sway bar alone!!!!!!!
With the 17" wheels did you or anybody add the AMG spring travel limiting washer on the piston rod over the stop buffer? Part # HWA 124 323 0144? It is shown on the official AMG instructions on w124performance site. The part number although does not come up as a good or available part at the dealer. Help......thanks
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
Wow. I ether got a steal or something happened to pricing since then.
My two lower LCAs came out just shy of $525. That was just for the parts only, I installed them and then had them re-torque and align everything at the shop. Going off the top of my head, I think the bushing kit + the labor to have them pushed in and installed was close to $500-600; that's why I opted for the whole LCA instead.
The rear sway is very easy, depending on your skill level. If you have two jack stands and a floor jack, you should be able to do this yourself. For more details, let me know, but simplified:
1. Chock the front wheels.
2. Jack up rear from diff with floor jack until wheels come off the ground, lower onto floor jacks (on rear mounting pts). Leave floor jack up against rear diff with slight upward pressure - just a tad.
3. Remove rear wheels.
4. Unbolt sway bar from links, at the bar not at the LCA.
5. Unbolt all four(4) subframe mounts, two on each side - you'll probably need a cheater bar to free them.
6. SLOWLY lower the floor jack. SLOWLY! The rear springs are going to push down with force against the rear diff/subframe so be very carefule not to release the floor jack all at once - do it slowly until the subframe starts to come away from the car.
Now you're ready to:
1. Replace the swaybar
2. Replace the springs
3. Repalce the subframe bushings
4. Add stainless steel brake lines
5. Adjust the SLS neutral position - this is mandatory since you will be removing the connection to the level that is attached to the old sway bar. At this point, you have to bend the mount out of the way as well or the 500E bar will barely hit it.
NOTE: It doesn't look like the swaybar will come out easily once it is completely unmounted. It will. Just twist and turn it as you pull it out and it comes out just fine with no force.
Reverse order to put everything back together.
Edit: You will want to remove the muffler. If it's an OE muffler, and a mech didn't weld one on, it's just a clamp just rear of the muffler, right below the subframe. Yes, you'll need to soak it in liquid wrench overnight or for a whole to release the bolt.
What happens is that when you lower the subframe, it will start to push down on the muffler pipe and if it isn't removed, you will start to force the muffler down with it stretching the rubber mounts. At some point the muffler will actually hold the subframe from lowering any further.
If you have a spring compressor, this isn't a big deal because you can get the spring out easily with the subframe slightly lowered which gives you more than ample room to compress the spring and replace it. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the spring out on its own free will as you could with the subframe dropped further.
Another note: I've heard from other kombi owners that they had problems with the brake lines also starting to get stretched. I didn't have this problems. The OE lines on my 94 were plenty long enough to drop the subframe without stretching. Keep an eye on this...
My two lower LCAs came out just shy of $525. That was just for the parts only, I installed them and then had them re-torque and align everything at the shop. Going off the top of my head, I think the bushing kit + the labor to have them pushed in and installed was close to $500-600; that's why I opted for the whole LCA instead.
The rear sway is very easy, depending on your skill level. If you have two jack stands and a floor jack, you should be able to do this yourself. For more details, let me know, but simplified:
1. Chock the front wheels.
2. Jack up rear from diff with floor jack until wheels come off the ground, lower onto floor jacks (on rear mounting pts). Leave floor jack up against rear diff with slight upward pressure - just a tad.
3. Remove rear wheels.
4. Unbolt sway bar from links, at the bar not at the LCA.
5. Unbolt all four(4) subframe mounts, two on each side - you'll probably need a cheater bar to free them.
6. SLOWLY lower the floor jack. SLOWLY! The rear springs are going to push down with force against the rear diff/subframe so be very carefule not to release the floor jack all at once - do it slowly until the subframe starts to come away from the car.
Now you're ready to:
1. Replace the swaybar
2. Replace the springs
3. Repalce the subframe bushings
4. Add stainless steel brake lines
5. Adjust the SLS neutral position - this is mandatory since you will be removing the connection to the level that is attached to the old sway bar. At this point, you have to bend the mount out of the way as well or the 500E bar will barely hit it.
NOTE: It doesn't look like the swaybar will come out easily once it is completely unmounted. It will. Just twist and turn it as you pull it out and it comes out just fine with no force.
Reverse order to put everything back together.
Edit: You will want to remove the muffler. If it's an OE muffler, and a mech didn't weld one on, it's just a clamp just rear of the muffler, right below the subframe. Yes, you'll need to soak it in liquid wrench overnight or for a whole to release the bolt.
What happens is that when you lower the subframe, it will start to push down on the muffler pipe and if it isn't removed, you will start to force the muffler down with it stretching the rubber mounts. At some point the muffler will actually hold the subframe from lowering any further.
If you have a spring compressor, this isn't a big deal because you can get the spring out easily with the subframe slightly lowered which gives you more than ample room to compress the spring and replace it. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the spring out on its own free will as you could with the subframe dropped further.
Another note: I've heard from other kombi owners that they had problems with the brake lines also starting to get stretched. I didn't have this problems. The OE lines on my 94 were plenty long enough to drop the subframe without stretching. Keep an eye on this...
Last edited by kwontumspeed; 09-20-2008 at 08:46 AM.
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
With the 17" wheels did you or anybody add the AMG spring travel limiting washer on the piston rod over the stop buffer? Part # HWA 124 323 0144? It is shown on the official AMG instructions on w124performance site. The part number although does not come up as a good or available part at the dealer. Help......thanks
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
The rear springs are to arrive on Monday. So I'll finally be ready to do the Sportline+ suspension mod next week including the 500e swaybars.
Robert I appreciate all the tips but don't really have the space or all the tools to get this done right so I'm going to take her in to the shop.
Which Sportline specs did you use for the alignment?
Just curious, did the bushings you removed from the front LCAs and rear sub frame look the same as the Sportline ones you installed?
thanks
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93 500e<P>94 E320T "Sportline"<P>90 FJ62
Yes. offer stands.
Send me your address and I'll get them out tomorrow.
On the alignment, I think the mech pulled up 1993 "Other" than Sportliine on their aligment machine. Not sure what the actual camber/toe, etc are but I'm sure they're posted somewhere here or mbshop.
I don't remember about the bushings...sorry.
Send me your address and I'll get them out tomorrow.
On the alignment, I think the mech pulled up 1993 "Other" than Sportliine on their aligment machine. Not sure what the actual camber/toe, etc are but I'm sure they're posted somewhere here or mbshop.
I don't remember about the bushings...sorry.
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16 E350 wagon, 94 AMG, sold -95 E320 Sportline wagon & 94 E420 & 95 E320 coupe & 92 190 16v
Finally tracked down and received all the Sportline springs, struts, bushings, links and 500e sways and I can't wait to get them installed next Monday.
Thanks again Robert for the advise and the links, they arrived yesterday.
ATL, a few quick snapshots (the Royal Photographer I am not) for you of the parts and Kombi pre-Sportline. I think my new tech will be willing to take pics as he installs. I'll post them asap next week.
Thanks again Robert for the advise and the links, they arrived yesterday.
ATL, a few quick snapshots (the Royal Photographer I am not) for you of the parts and Kombi pre-Sportline. I think my new tech will be willing to take pics as he installs. I'll post them asap next week.
#40
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Finally tracked down and received all the Sportline springs, struts, bushings, links and 500e sways and I can't wait to get them installed next Monday.
Thanks again Robert for the advise and the links, they arrived yesterday.
ATL, a few quick snapshots (the Royal Photographer I am not) for you of the parts and Kombi pre-Sportline. I think my new tech will be willing to take pics as he installs. I'll post them asap next week.
Thanks again Robert for the advise and the links, they arrived yesterday.
ATL, a few quick snapshots (the Royal Photographer I am not) for you of the parts and Kombi pre-Sportline. I think my new tech will be willing to take pics as he installs. I'll post them asap next week.
#41
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You had mentioned to change the whole front Lower Control Arms w/sportline bushings as it was just a little bit more than the bushing kits. Maybe the prices have changed but list was quoted as $224 total for both the left and right bushing kits BUT almost $1100 for the two LCAs!
But, the "oldtimer" felt there was no reason to change bushings unless they were bad as the wagons not only have the sportline swaybars with sportline bushings but also the LCAs and rear subframe come with sportline bushings already. Hopefully this is correct and my bushings look ok because....
But, the "oldtimer" felt there was no reason to change bushings unless they were bad as the wagons not only have the sportline swaybars with sportline bushings but also the LCAs and rear subframe come with sportline bushings already. Hopefully this is correct and my bushings look ok because....
My understanding is that the lower control arms on the later '95 wagons did not have replaceable bushings (similar setup on the E500/500E). Hence the astronomical cost compared to the earlier versions.
Also, the brakes were changed/upgraded on the later models.
Robert, would you care to grab a coffee and compare notes/drives on our kombis?