Quick and Dirty Becker upgrade for Wagons
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1994 E320 Dragon Wagon
Quick and Dirty Becker upgrade for Wagons
There are very few posts discussing stereo for the red-headed stepchild - Becker wagon systems. My old Becker Pop and Squawk started releasing banshee death cry's so anything would be an improvement.
In diagrams, the rear mounted, low-freq amp appears to receive its input signals from a parallel connection to each dash speaker. This would be (hot) speaker level audio sent to the rear amp inputs. The amp drives the front door bass speakers. Actually, each dash speaker has dual voice coils that operate differently. One coil (with the cylinder shape connector) goes to the head unit speaker output and is the one to use if upgrading dash speakers.
The other coil (square connector) generates a signal from speaker movement and sends this to the rear amp as a low-level input. This is unconventional. Line level (pre-amp out) or speaker level (way too hot) signals cannot be sent to the amp. It's easy, if you want to keep the factory amp it will work only with the factory dash speakers in place.
The rear door speakers are slightly under 4". I found some new $40, 4", 4 ohm, Panasonic co-axial speakers that fit great. Just had to grind off the speaker mount tabs. They drop right in reusing the factory half-round, plastic retainer. Any 4" will fit, just keep the tweeter stand-off profile low as possible to clear the grill.
The dash speakers are 4 1/4" where 4"' replacements will drop in fine leaving the tabs on. You can simply apply a blob of silicone to the tabs and drop them in. The slight gap is inaudible. This is quick and dirty after all. Remember, you must leave at least one factory dash speaker to keep the rear amp in service. The amp must mono or combine the inputs to the front door woofers. I could disconnect left or right side dash speakers individually and both doors continued producing bass. Disconnecting both speakers killed the amp output.
The rear amp has remote switched power available (shared with the power antennae) to run an upgrade amp. You will need to route a long, shielded, RCA cable to your head unit's pre-outs.
I bought an EPray $50 Blaupunkt. I desoldered the connector from the old Becker radio and soldered the new Blaupunkt harness to it. Made it simple to insert back into the dash harness without molesting it. The DIN sized chassis slips in tightly on the sides. I added a cardboard shim on the top of the deck to "friction" hold it in place. Forget brackets and retainers this is quick and dirty. CD player thieves and I will be pleased 'cause they won't have to demo the dash to grab it. You will need an antennae adapter to fit the factory antennae cable.
The result for $130 was well worth it. I kept the dash speakers and rear amp running. The sound isn't "rollin' like a gangsta". The only thing is that blue, animated display on the head unit is a bit much from the warm amber glow from the old-school unit. Rest in peace Mr. Pop and Squawk I soon will get over it.
In diagrams, the rear mounted, low-freq amp appears to receive its input signals from a parallel connection to each dash speaker. This would be (hot) speaker level audio sent to the rear amp inputs. The amp drives the front door bass speakers. Actually, each dash speaker has dual voice coils that operate differently. One coil (with the cylinder shape connector) goes to the head unit speaker output and is the one to use if upgrading dash speakers.
The other coil (square connector) generates a signal from speaker movement and sends this to the rear amp as a low-level input. This is unconventional. Line level (pre-amp out) or speaker level (way too hot) signals cannot be sent to the amp. It's easy, if you want to keep the factory amp it will work only with the factory dash speakers in place.
The rear door speakers are slightly under 4". I found some new $40, 4", 4 ohm, Panasonic co-axial speakers that fit great. Just had to grind off the speaker mount tabs. They drop right in reusing the factory half-round, plastic retainer. Any 4" will fit, just keep the tweeter stand-off profile low as possible to clear the grill.
The dash speakers are 4 1/4" where 4"' replacements will drop in fine leaving the tabs on. You can simply apply a blob of silicone to the tabs and drop them in. The slight gap is inaudible. This is quick and dirty after all. Remember, you must leave at least one factory dash speaker to keep the rear amp in service. The amp must mono or combine the inputs to the front door woofers. I could disconnect left or right side dash speakers individually and both doors continued producing bass. Disconnecting both speakers killed the amp output.
The rear amp has remote switched power available (shared with the power antennae) to run an upgrade amp. You will need to route a long, shielded, RCA cable to your head unit's pre-outs.
I bought an EPray $50 Blaupunkt. I desoldered the connector from the old Becker radio and soldered the new Blaupunkt harness to it. Made it simple to insert back into the dash harness without molesting it. The DIN sized chassis slips in tightly on the sides. I added a cardboard shim on the top of the deck to "friction" hold it in place. Forget brackets and retainers this is quick and dirty. CD player thieves and I will be pleased 'cause they won't have to demo the dash to grab it. You will need an antennae adapter to fit the factory antennae cable.
The result for $130 was well worth it. I kept the dash speakers and rear amp running. The sound isn't "rollin' like a gangsta". The only thing is that blue, animated display on the head unit is a bit much from the warm amber glow from the old-school unit. Rest in peace Mr. Pop and Squawk I soon will get over it.
