Bought an '88 300TE for my RENNTech 3.6L!
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
- Found battery tray was very rusty and I sold a perfect one from my wreck a few months ago
- Found my steering dampener is leaking, damaged during engine removal
- Was surprised how much the driveshaft can slide front to back
by not keeping the shift rod attached to the trans, also need to replace the bushing on the lower shifter arm- I'm concerned I bent the condenser tube, there's not much flex in them which is why the tubing on the original broke
- Bought another torque wrench and tightened flex disc bolts to 44 ft/lbs, hope it's correct, the book was not clear
- Finished bolting in the driveshaft, trans mounts, exhaust, now I'm ready for a beer to wash down the oil and dirt.
After I finish attaching all the wiring and installing the radiator, she'll be ready to fire up! 
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
It rained today so I didn't get as much done as I planned. I only dropped a screwdriver and bolt on my head working under the car so it was a good day. 
Weather should be nicer tomorrow so I'll video the start up
- Removed the shifter assembly and installed a Zebrano knob. I found other subtle difference in that the top cover snapped in, even though the holes are there for the 4 screws. I was going to replace the Zebrano shifter panel with one from my '87 but all the buttons are held to the panel. In all the 300E's I've owned the window buttons are held in a plastic frame on the console. I cleaned the console carpet, I always wring out alot of coffee...
- Replaced the firewall top padding that was damaged during engine install, routed the battery cable and starter wires
- Installed the shifter lever linkage, I found the adjustable end needed to be rotated 180 degrees or it would hit the flex shaft. I also tried to fit the spring clip with 2" of clearance until I realized I could unbolt the lever at the transmission...
- Installed the AC condensor and radiator, still need to recheck all the connections and clamps
- Found a nice battery tray but it was the long version because there was only one 300E in the yard
- Replaced the bent engine hooks and put a new o-ring on the heater side
- Another issue was the distributor cover wouldn't fit on the bracket for the SLS line so I had to notch it. When I got the car, it didn't have a cover or the plastic holder.
Weather should be nicer tomorrow so I'll video the start up
Last edited by pifcat2; Apr 9, 2009 at 12:52 PM.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
No vid yet but she turns over!
Still need to fill the PS and SLS hydraulic fluids, install the air cleaner, and attach the throttle cable.
Forgot to mention:
- Installed a new rad clamp kit, given the rubber pads were missing. The clamps were a pain to spread while pushing down
- Installed the trans cooling hoses, tightened all the hose clamps, tightened the AC and gas lines, installed the battery cables
- cleaned and installed the plastic filler panels on either side of the radiator with those plastic rivets, installed the air intake scoop
- filled the radiator fill tank with coolant. I contemplated removing the right fender to empty the overflow but didn't do it.
Still need to fill the PS and SLS hydraulic fluids, install the air cleaner, and attach the throttle cable.
Forgot to mention:
- Bought a new battery at Autozone, almost got the longer one but decided against the extra weight and pain installing it
- Started the DMV reg, it needs a smog test
Last edited by pifcat2; Apr 11, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
- Installed the heater hose in the back that I almost forgot about, another item I should have installed on the engine before installation...
- Initially it didn't start and began to diesel so I installed the ECU and relay from '87 sedan, thinking it could have been modified by RT. I can swap them to verify
- It started after a few attempts, and now usually starts immediately, yeah! I drove it around the block at night a couple of times and everything seems to work. I wish my Supersprint would fit on this wagon.
- The bad news, white smoke is coming out the exhaust when idling. It didn't do that when I parked the car 2 years ago and the engine was not outside the car for more than a couple of months. The only warning lights are the coolant and light out (none are out), and there is no CEL. I'm worried it could be a blown head gasket but can't see a cause
- I noticed the temp began to rise over 100 and the radiator and top hose were cool. I'll check the thermostat and add more coolant. I already added over 1.5 gallons.
- I installed the AMG 3 piece 16" wheels from my coupe and will likely swap the Hella lights and Recaros
- How do you check if the SLS is working?
- I took a video but will take more after I clean the wagon
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lots of cars
The bad news, white smoke is coming out the exhaust when idling. It didn't do that when I parked the car 2 years ago and the engine was not outside the car for more than a couple of months. The only warning lights are the coolant and light out (none are out), and there is no CEL. I'm worried it could be a blown head gasket but can't see a cause
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Added a gallon of distilled water, the cooling is stable, and the aux fan works! 
It cleaned up nicely but now all the "black" plastic is grey, need to find some treatment for it.
The smoke has diminished so we'll see how it does in the smog test...
It cleaned up nicely but now all the "black" plastic is grey, need to find some treatment for it.
The smoke has diminished so we'll see how it does in the smog test...
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
bummed
I planned to get a smog check and I didn't want to chance failing so I poured a bottle of iso-heet in the tank. The car wouldn't start and had been starting easily for the past few days. Thinking I better dilute the 1/3 tank I added more gas and no start.
I poured gas down the intake and it started right away. It may be the fuel pump, so I swapped a known good gas pump relay but no start. I need to check the pump, filter, and...
I poured gas down the intake and it started right away. It may be the fuel pump, so I swapped a known good gas pump relay but no start. I need to check the pump, filter, and...
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
1 of 2 current problems fixed...
I thought I fixed my starting problem by testing the fuel pump relay circuit, bypassed to to check the fuel pumps, and even replaced my ignitiion control module from the donor 300E. I found a ground wire hanging so I was hoping it was the fix. The engine would start reliably but would die after 40 minutes or so.
I went ahead and tried to smog the car and while it passed the test, the CEL would not light and turn off so it failed the visual. I thought the bulb might be out but it was ok. I couldn't get any codes so I replaced the ECU with the original (After swapping engines, I installed the ECU from the donor thinking it may have been modified by RENNTech). The '88 ECU worked and allowed the CEL to function at startup so I'm good to go for the 2nd smog test.
The smog tech found another ground wire hanging near the coil. Hopefully it will fix the mysterious shut down after 40 minutes or so. Somehow the fuel stops flowing and then flows after 10-15 minutes or if primed with starter fluid.
I went ahead and tried to smog the car and while it passed the test, the CEL would not light and turn off so it failed the visual.
I thought the bulb might be out but it was ok. I couldn't get any codes so I replaced the ECU with the original (After swapping engines, I installed the ECU from the donor thinking it may have been modified by RENNTech). The '88 ECU worked and allowed the CEL to function at startup so I'm good to go for the 2nd smog test. The smog tech found another ground wire hanging near the coil.
Hopefully it will fix the mysterious shut down after 40 minutes or so. Somehow the fuel stops flowing and then flows after 10-15 minutes or if primed with starter fluid.
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
I thought I fixed my starting problem by testing the fuel pump relay circuit, bypassed to to check the fuel pumps, and even replaced my ignitiion control module from the donor 300E. I found a ground wire hanging so I was hoping it was the fix. The engine would start reliably but would die after 40 minutes or so.
I went ahead and tried to smog the car and while it passed the test, the CEL would not light and turn off so it failed the visual. I thought the bulb might be out but it was ok. I couldn't get any codes so I replaced the ECU with the original (After swapping engines, I installed the ECU from the donor thinking it may have been modified by RENNTech). The '88 ECU worked and allowed the CEL to function at startup so I'm good to go for the 2nd smog test.
The smog tech found another ground wire hanging near the coil. Hopefully it will fix the mysterious shut down after 40 minutes or so. Somehow the fuel stops flowing and then flows after 10-15 minutes or if primed with starter fluid.
I went ahead and tried to smog the car and while it passed the test, the CEL would not light and turn off so it failed the visual.
I thought the bulb might be out but it was ok. I couldn't get any codes so I replaced the ECU with the original (After swapping engines, I installed the ECU from the donor thinking it may have been modified by RENNTech). The '88 ECU worked and allowed the CEL to function at startup so I'm good to go for the 2nd smog test. The smog tech found another ground wire hanging near the coil.
Hopefully it will fix the mysterious shut down after 40 minutes or so. Somehow the fuel stops flowing and then flows after 10-15 minutes or if primed with starter fluid.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Your install was in a 1988 300TE.
Did you retain the original OVP and fuel pump relay that was part of the EZL/KE control ?
You want to look for a green/yellow wire on the TD terminal of the fuel pump or combined relay.
This wire runs to the tach and originally ran to the EZL and KE control and to pin 1 of your original diagnostic socket.
Check to see where these wires are in the engine bay and what they now connect to...
Any break will shut down the fuel pumps.
Only suggesting this as you are finding some wires not connected.
You made many changes so it could be hard to troubleshoot.
You may also check to see if your O2 sensor is intermittently grounding out which would cause the fuel pump relay to shut the pumps down.
My guess it's something in the area of the OVP/FPR/KLIMA and the wiring at these relays, but not sure what you've retained from the original 1988 circuitry.
Did you retain the original OVP and fuel pump relay that was part of the EZL/KE control ?
You want to look for a green/yellow wire on the TD terminal of the fuel pump or combined relay.
This wire runs to the tach and originally ran to the EZL and KE control and to pin 1 of your original diagnostic socket.
Check to see where these wires are in the engine bay and what they now connect to...
Any break will shut down the fuel pumps.
Only suggesting this as you are finding some wires not connected.
You made many changes so it could be hard to troubleshoot.
You may also check to see if your O2 sensor is intermittently grounding out which would cause the fuel pump relay to shut the pumps down.
My guess it's something in the area of the OVP/FPR/KLIMA and the wiring at these relays, but not sure what you've retained from the original 1988 circuitry.
Last edited by RBYCC; May 31, 2009 at 08:55 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Your install was in a 1988 300TE.
Did you retain the original OVP and fuel pump relay that was part of the EZL/KE control ?
You want to look for a green/yellow wire on the TD terminal of the fuel pump or combined relay.
This wire runs to the tach and originally ran to the EZL and KE control and to pin 1 of your original diagnostic socket.
Check to see where these wires are in the engine bay and what they now connect to...
Any break will shut down the fuel pumps.
Only suggesting this as you are finding some wires not connected.
You made many changes so it could be hard to troubleshoot.
You may also check to see if your O2 sensor is intermittently grounding out which would cause the fuel pump relay to shut the pumps down.
My guess it's something in the area of the OVP/FPR/KLIMA and the wiring at these relays, but not sure what you've retained from the original 1988 circuitry.
Did you retain the original OVP and fuel pump relay that was part of the EZL/KE control ?
You want to look for a green/yellow wire on the TD terminal of the fuel pump or combined relay.
This wire runs to the tach and originally ran to the EZL and KE control and to pin 1 of your original diagnostic socket.
Check to see where these wires are in the engine bay and what they now connect to...
Any break will shut down the fuel pumps.
Only suggesting this as you are finding some wires not connected.
You made many changes so it could be hard to troubleshoot.
You may also check to see if your O2 sensor is intermittently grounding out which would cause the fuel pump relay to shut the pumps down.
My guess it's something in the area of the OVP/FPR/KLIMA and the wiring at these relays, but not sure what you've retained from the original 1988 circuitry.
The '87 E to 88 TE engine wiring was identical from what I can tell. I only missed connecting 2 grounds, one to the intake manifold, not sure of the other. I was surprised the engine started and ran without them. I kept the complete E harness but didn't need it.
Differences:
- The engine sensor at the transmission had a different connector at the bulkhead but the wiring colors are the same so I just swapped connectors.
- I kept the original TE OVP. I have to recheck what's different, I think it was merely the metal flanges that slips into the plastic mounting bracket.
- As noted earlier the engine temp sensors were slightly different so I transferred or bought new to match the '87 engine.
Side Note: my mechanic was hesitant to do the smog test because of the engine swap and almost sent me to a referee station. In retrospect, I didn't need to disclose this information.
I've went to a referee in the past for a radical engine swap but not for same manufacture and type engine replacements. Seems like a common repair to me...
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Found a late model TE in the local Pick a Parts
- Bought rear bumper, all side door panels, and rockers
- 3rd brake light and wiper
- working antenna
- miscl wagon unique parts
- found a sedan with Palomino parts I needed too
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Posted it for sale on CL
I got the later cladding on (I spent $100 on only half the clips that weren't reusable) and most of the little details fixed. Need to find R12 as i don't want to convert to R134a.
Thought I'd put it out there and so far have 3 possible buyers, oh it's going to be hard to let go...
Thought I'd put it out there and so far have 3 possible buyers, oh it's going to be hard to let go...
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Replaced the bad steering dampener and installed the Hellas. I got some speaker covers from David W, which I would like to fabricate a more sturdier version in perforated sheet metal. I'm thinking of installing the Recaro C's from my CE but with the stock bottom power adjustments. I also studied the rear suspension more closely and have started to plan the conversion to sport shocks. While this wouldn't have been as sporty as the 3.6L Coupe I had planned, it's definitely more practical.
I'm happy to drive this car if it doesn't sell which is one reason for the price. I think it's destiny anyway as a couple of serious buyers have backed out for various reasons. Thanks for all the supportive inquiries, David H. et all...
I'm happy to drive this car if it doesn't sell which is one reason for the price. I think it's destiny anyway as a couple of serious buyers have backed out for various reasons. Thanks for all the supportive inquiries, David H. et all...
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Installed all new dist cap, cap cover, rotor, plugs, wires. Chasing a CEL issue that didn't show up during the smog inspection. The diag LED stayed on and now it's off.
Failed at installing the Recaros, apparently there are not one but three W124 seat mounts. I ovalized the rear holes to make them fit in my CE but these are about 1/2" off. Ed's been a big help but I may have to adapt them to the power bottoms and have no vertical travel. That or modify the bottom rails.
I'm considering cutting my rear springs to drop the car since I can have sedan Eibachs and I'm not sure the rears will fit. That or spec some shorter springs. This may be the time to design a mount for shocks.
I installed the badge, still have to add the "6" to the 300TE emblem...
I placed my AMG spoiler up on the rear hatch for a mock up and the arc was a close match. I can either make a splash mold and modify it or form a polyurethane foam piece. I realize most wagon spoilers have foils that divert the air down but I'm going for aesthetics...
I postponed selling the car as I'm having way too much fun with it. Acceleration is exhilarating. It will be even more fun when I stiffen the suspension.
Failed at installing the Recaros, apparently there are not one but three W124 seat mounts. I ovalized the rear holes to make them fit in my CE but these are about 1/2" off. Ed's been a big help but I may have to adapt them to the power bottoms and have no vertical travel. That or modify the bottom rails.
I'm considering cutting my rear springs to drop the car since I can have sedan Eibachs and I'm not sure the rears will fit. That or spec some shorter springs. This may be the time to design a mount for shocks.
I installed the badge, still have to add the "6" to the 300TE emblem...
I placed my AMG spoiler up on the rear hatch for a mock up and the arc was a close match. I can either make a splash mold and modify it or form a polyurethane foam piece. I realize most wagon spoilers have foils that divert the air down but I'm going for aesthetics...
I postponed selling the car as I'm having way too much fun with it. Acceleration is exhilarating. It will be even more fun when I stiffen the suspension.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Recaros are Awesome!
The feel is so supportive with multiple lumbar adjustments, heat...
I was very fortunate to find rare manual seats in a dismantler yard thinking I could adapt the factory sliders. As it turns out the Recaro adapters bolt directly onto the factory sliders. I already have factory sliders on the Recaros but there are several versions with different brackets including different L and R so they did not fit. The drivers side adapter was modified to accept the knob angle adjustments but restricts movement so it's a useless feature. The passenger side Recaro adapter was not modified at all so I'm going to cut off that feature on the factory slider. The level and angled slide features are all that's necessary. Some have adapted the power bottoms but given how high it places the seat, the vertical adjustment is not practical and the recline is redundant. Factory plastic finish side panels were drilled and screwed onto the bracket but I plan to secure them for a better fit. I also need to adapt the factory seatbelt receiver so the SRS light turns off.
Here are the hole pattern on my '88 +/- 1/16":
Front left to right: 18 13/16"
Rear left to right: 18 3/16"
Front to back: 11 15/16"
My Keiper Recaro bracket PN are:
Drivers 362472
Passenger 362316
I was very fortunate to find rare manual seats in a dismantler yard thinking I could adapt the factory sliders. As it turns out the Recaro adapters bolt directly onto the factory sliders. I already have factory sliders on the Recaros but there are several versions with different brackets including different L and R so they did not fit. The drivers side adapter was modified to accept the knob angle adjustments but restricts movement so it's a useless feature. The passenger side Recaro adapter was not modified at all so I'm going to cut off that feature on the factory slider. The level and angled slide features are all that's necessary. Some have adapted the power bottoms but given how high it places the seat, the vertical adjustment is not practical and the recline is redundant. Factory plastic finish side panels were drilled and screwed onto the bracket but I plan to secure them for a better fit. I also need to adapt the factory seatbelt receiver so the SRS light turns off.
Here are the hole pattern on my '88 +/- 1/16":
Front left to right: 18 13/16"
Rear left to right: 18 3/16"
Front to back: 11 15/16"
My Keiper Recaro bracket PN are:
Drivers 362472
Passenger 362316
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From: Forethill, Ca Northcal
85 euro w124 300d non turbo black on black......coming soon hx35 turbo intercooler
I have to sell my car first then I can get my wagon going.I got a wheel bearing i have to replace. As soon as I sell I will bring my 300te link back to life.
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Odometer & Recaros
I finally took apart my instrument cluster because my odometer and tripmeter never worked, I'm afraid to check how long it's been stuck. I actually swapped one in from my spares but the lights wouldn't work. I was going to swap the rheostat when I noticed the gear was pulled out and not engaged with the screw drive. I pushed it but am not sure how long before it slips out again. Seems there's nothing to keep it in.
I acquired 3 drivers Recaro Ideal C basket cases and began to test the air bladders and heaters to see if I could build a pair by moving the seat tilt knob and controls to the opposite side for a passenger version. They're missing the hinge covers and a pair of knobs I'll try to duplicate since they are NLA. I also got a headrest with speakers.
FYI, I weighed the stock power seats at 64 lbs and the Recaros with manual sliders and adapters at almost 71 lbs. Why so much more without motors? The factory sliders have two ranges of adjustment, actually 3 but the front tilt knob doesn't work with Recaros and weigh almost 12 lbs. The adapter is thick gauge metal weighing almost 7 lbs. The seat itself has only 1 seat back angle motor but also has a pump and all the adjustments have brackets and linkages to weigh over 52 lbs.
I acquired 3 drivers Recaro Ideal C basket cases and began to test the air bladders and heaters to see if I could build a pair by moving the seat tilt knob and controls to the opposite side for a passenger version. They're missing the hinge covers and a pair of knobs I'll try to duplicate since they are NLA. I also got a headrest with speakers.
FYI, I weighed the stock power seats at 64 lbs and the Recaros with manual sliders and adapters at almost 71 lbs. Why so much more without motors? The factory sliders have two ranges of adjustment, actually 3 but the front tilt knob doesn't work with Recaros and weigh almost 12 lbs. The adapter is thick gauge metal weighing almost 7 lbs. The seat itself has only 1 seat back angle motor but also has a pump and all the adjustments have brackets and linkages to weigh over 52 lbs.
Last edited by pifcat2; Sep 7, 2009 at 04:27 PM.
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Posts: 405
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From: Forethill, Ca Northcal
85 euro w124 300d non turbo black on black......coming soon hx35 turbo intercooler
On ur speedo meter do you carfax report so when you det it working gain its not mark with tampering of odometer.
Your will will slip out again. Remove your gear and slip a toothe pick (i used a hose from a wd40 can) And pull ur gear and shaft out. takesome dikes and ruff up the shaft. push the gear back in.when you get to the last gear it will be a mmm getting in. I used two flat tips to hold the numbers and pushed the shaft back in and then your odometer is fixed.
Your will will slip out again. Remove your gear and slip a toothe pick (i used a hose from a wd40 can) And pull ur gear and shaft out. takesome dikes and ruff up the shaft. push the gear back in.when you get to the last gear it will be a mmm getting in. I used two flat tips to hold the numbers and pushed the shaft back in and then your odometer is fixed.
