Fan lunched my radiator
02-11-2009, 12:57 AM
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Fan lunched my radiator
As I started the car after work, I heard a noise. An expensive sounding noise, and I turned the car off/ stopped the starting procedure right away. At that point I heard a pissing sound. An expensive sound. Coming from somewhere undetermined, but seemingly towards the front.
I got out the car walked towards the front and sure enough its pissing coolant. Popped the hood open and couldn't see where it came from. With the aid of a flashlight I was able to deduct that a piece of the fan had broken off because I could see a piece of white looking plastic somewhere near the bottom. I went to move the fan to give me a slightly better angle and damn if the whole fan didnt just up walk into the radiator.
I removed the fan shroud, removed the fan (still connected to the viscous coupling) and sure enough one of the blades on the fan had committed hara kiri into the radiator, rendering that useless.
Its dark, cold, I'm sick, broke (not really but I really didnt need to spend the money on this!!!!!!) and I lost my cell phone sometime during the whole ordeal.
Anyone have any pointers for me? I wanna go bush mechanic this radiator thing tonight if possible and have this car running as cheaply as possible within 3 days (radiator, idler pulley (broken) serpentine belt.)
Didn't have my camera as I lost the thingamajig that charges its battery.
I got out the car walked towards the front and sure enough its pissing coolant. Popped the hood open and couldn't see where it came from. With the aid of a flashlight I was able to deduct that a piece of the fan had broken off because I could see a piece of white looking plastic somewhere near the bottom. I went to move the fan to give me a slightly better angle and damn if the whole fan didnt just up walk into the radiator.
I removed the fan shroud, removed the fan (still connected to the viscous coupling) and sure enough one of the blades on the fan had committed hara kiri into the radiator, rendering that useless.
Its dark, cold, I'm sick, broke (not really but I really didnt need to spend the money on this!!!!!!) and I lost my cell phone sometime during the whole ordeal.
Anyone have any pointers for me? I wanna go bush mechanic this radiator thing tonight if possible and have this car running as cheaply as possible within 3 days (radiator, idler pulley (broken) serpentine belt.)
Didn't have my camera as I lost the thingamajig that charges its battery.
02-11-2009, 01:12 AM
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A quick pointer.
I only heard the loud sound because make it a point to always start my car, with the radio muted, by
a) turning and holding the key in the on position for a few seconds then to the start position to start. This enables the fuel pumps to start pumping and establish fuel pressure which leads to quicker starts. A faulty fuel pressure regulator(?) will hold the fuel pressure but not at the same pressure as freshly a pressurised system. Quicker starts mean quicker oil pressure which mean less wear on bearings etc at startup. Cold engine startup is thought to be the leading cause of engine wear by many experts
b) by starting it with the door open to hear it, not just feel it. That way any anomalies can be detected right away. I then shut the door, put on my seatbelt set the defroster, un- mute the radio etc Sure, the buzzer is beeping, but taking the few seconds to start your car in this manner could mean longer life for your engine for years. And save you money in an undamaged engine.
I normally drive home, slowly the first mile, but there is a long light. id normally not bother to look at my temp gauge because that light is not even a quarter mile away from my parking, and still on my work parking lot. The speed limit in that parking lot is so low due to pedestrian traffic that I basically idle up to the light. I dont expect the car to overheat within that short a time frame so I wouldnt have been looking at the temp gauge until it probably would have been too late.
I only heard the loud sound because make it a point to always start my car, with the radio muted, by
a) turning and holding the key in the on position for a few seconds then to the start position to start. This enables the fuel pumps to start pumping and establish fuel pressure which leads to quicker starts. A faulty fuel pressure regulator(?) will hold the fuel pressure but not at the same pressure as freshly a pressurised system. Quicker starts mean quicker oil pressure which mean less wear on bearings etc at startup. Cold engine startup is thought to be the leading cause of engine wear by many experts
b) by starting it with the door open to hear it, not just feel it. That way any anomalies can be detected right away. I then shut the door, put on my seatbelt set the defroster, un- mute the radio etc Sure, the buzzer is beeping, but taking the few seconds to start your car in this manner could mean longer life for your engine for years. And save you money in an undamaged engine.
I normally drive home, slowly the first mile, but there is a long light. id normally not bother to look at my temp gauge because that light is not even a quarter mile away from my parking, and still on my work parking lot. The speed limit in that parking lot is so low due to pedestrian traffic that I basically idle up to the light. I dont expect the car to overheat within that short a time frame so I wouldnt have been looking at the temp gauge until it probably would have been too late.
02-11-2009, 05:19 AM
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Went back to the car and just got back with an observation.
It would appear that the problem is where the fan mounts to the engine block; on the timing chain cover as it were. Bearings were on the ground, and i peeked in there as best i can. Seems like thats where the fault was. Fan assembly just broke off.
Anyway, I went inadequately prepared for what I wanted to do. I left the radiator in "pull up and remove" condition with just the lower transmission cooling line needing to be loosened. I hadnt thought of how to stem the oil dripping from the cooler so i just left it on.
Any thoughts experts. Anyone with experience in this arena?
It would appear that the problem is where the fan mounts to the engine block; on the timing chain cover as it were. Bearings were on the ground, and i peeked in there as best i can. Seems like thats where the fault was. Fan assembly just broke off.
Anyway, I went inadequately prepared for what I wanted to do. I left the radiator in "pull up and remove" condition with just the lower transmission cooling line needing to be loosened. I hadnt thought of how to stem the oil dripping from the cooler so i just left it on.
Any thoughts experts. Anyone with experience in this arena?
I wish I had a more constructive post, too....
02-11-2009, 08:52 PM
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1991 300 CE
Sorry to hear about your problem.
Something similar happened to my car..
On my car the Radiator went out.. return port on the top of the Radiator just busted off, so I ordered and replaced the unit..
It worked fine, but soon after I started to hear this ticking and the more I drove the car, the louder it got. I finally found out it was the bracket that holds the clutch fan. The bracket barring assembly had just busted off and was allowing the fan/Clutch fan assembly to hit the back of the motor.
It is a 2 hour job and you will need to replace the clutch fan assembly blades, replace the serpentine belt while you are at it, and any water hoes you can get to. YOU might want to get a tool that allows you to tighten the fan clutch and fan assembly with out allowing it to spin on you. it is an ordeal to have to deal with these your repairs, but if you do the work your self, you will have a great sense of accomplishment. You will also need to get radiator fluid. I got all my parts from this web site... prices are very reasonable compared to dealer price.
www.autohausaz.com
Something similar happened to my car..
On my car the Radiator went out.. return port on the top of the Radiator just busted off, so I ordered and replaced the unit..
It worked fine, but soon after I started to hear this ticking and the more I drove the car, the louder it got. I finally found out it was the bracket that holds the clutch fan. The bracket barring assembly had just busted off and was allowing the fan/Clutch fan assembly to hit the back of the motor.
It is a 2 hour job and you will need to replace the clutch fan assembly blades, replace the serpentine belt while you are at it, and any water hoes you can get to. YOU might want to get a tool that allows you to tighten the fan clutch and fan assembly with out allowing it to spin on you. it is an ordeal to have to deal with these your repairs, but if you do the work your self, you will have a great sense of accomplishment. You will also need to get radiator fluid. I got all my parts from this web site... prices are very reasonable compared to dealer price.
www.autohausaz.com
Last edited by ociriszues; 02-11-2009 at 08:54 PM.
