Diesel

Need some advice,

87 300 D Turbo, Koni adjustable shocks, Eibach springs all around, 17 x 7.5 rims, 215/45/17 Falken Tires, rear camber adjusters.

So here is the problem. Just had an alignment done by a reputable work shop yesterday, but have had to take it back today because there was tire rub on the left front fender. They made an adustment and said it was okay, but this evening hit a few dips in the road, and again, there was rub. What to do? They guys at the shop said that they tried to make the alignment as close to factory specs as possible, but could not make the fronts perfect because the tire would be too close to the fenders.

This is the same shop that did an alignment for me two years ago. Had no rubbing issues. Had premature tire wear this year as the front tie rods had some play. So, I bought 4 new tires, had the rods replaced, and the alignment done at the same time. But, this front Left tire is giving me issues.

Any suggestions?

ZedStyle

what offset wheels? might have to roll your fenders if they are sticking out too far

Diesel

I think the ET is 35

ksing44

It sounds like you went with a known set-up that even Tirerack used to say would fit our cars, so it does sound a little weird. Then again, even I once had a rub with 205/55/16 on 16” x 7.5” ET37 on my 1995 E320 when I purchased new Bridgestone tires. I also have Eibach springs, although I went with Bilstein shocks. The Bridgestone tires were a little more square in profile and the tires rubbed a little on the lower cladding on the driver’s side. That stopped after there was a little wear on the tires. My new rounder Michelin tires never rubbed.

Where on the fender does it actually rub? What part of the alignment adjustment has to be trimmed from spec to keep it from rubbing? For me it seemed increased caster should have moved the wheel a little forward to get away from the lower cladding, although I never went that rout because the tires stopped rubbing. Another issue may be how low your car is, depending on the spring pads used. I used 1-bump front, but I have a 1995 E320 gasser, not a diesel. Is the diesel heavier? My car really isn’t all that low, except compared to how sky high it was before the new springs. If it is any consolation, I struggled quite a bit after lowering my car and ended up having to go back under to swap spring pads and install the K-MAC camber adjusters. Good luck.

When you hear wild claims from others about no rubbing with truly unbelievable set-ups, it does make you wonder.

My car not too low

edcarls

Alignment and rubbing are two separate issues. As such, alignment can't solve rubbing issue. Based on your experience above, when the alignment is close to specs the tire rubs. If they adjust your alignment to prevent rubbing you'll be out of alignment specs and may experience premature tire wear.

The correct solution is to have it aligned according to specs (or as close as possible) and fix the area where it rubs i.e., roll wheel well lips, pull fenders and put spacers.

Good Luck.

Diesel

Thanks guys. I think the diesel engine may be heavier than the gasoline version. I am only getting rubbing when the car goes over a significant dip in the road. I got the car back today, the shop tech said he couldnt make any further adjustments without affecting the alignment. I think the tire is rubbing on the fender itself.

Im going to live with this for now. I wanted to avoid rolling the fenders. If this problem persists, I may have to.

D

edcarls

It means your struts are bottoming out and your front tires are rubbing against the front fender's lower plastic cladding (on the rear of the front fenders.) Check and you'll find black marks on the lips of those cladding. The solution is to replace the rubber bump stop and put a 20mm spacer between the bump stop and the strut mount.

How low did you drop it?

Diesel

Car is not "slammed", will try and post pics this weekend to show its height. Thanks for the solution. Any suggestions on what number bump stop is best? And where can I find a spacer?

Thanks

edcarls

Bump stop and spring pads are two different parts. The spring pads are the ones with number of **** (1 to 3) that sits between the spring and the spring perch. The bump stop I was referring are the ones that slides into the strut shaft that sits close to the strut mount.

Bump stops are available at any auto supplies that carries MB parts. The spacers are NLA from the dealer and are difficult to find. I fabricated mine out of caster wheel I bought from Home Depot.

justinwrock

Yeah, I ran into rubbing problems too... Just raised my car up a bit with taller spring pads.




Do any of you have problems with camber wear? I go thru tires fast.

ksing44

Yes, I use K-MAC, but shorter LCA looks like a great solution

From another forum - There are 4 ways to go toward more positive camber:

1. Spring shims: You can increase the shims (aka pads) - which will add height and thus take camber toward positive. Cheapest solution - as the pads are only about $6 each from the dealer. Downside is you've counter-acted to some degree what you tried to do in the first place...which is lower the car. And...you can't correct the camber by very much. There's an equation I came across...wrote it down somewhere but don't have it handy. It's on a post on here somewhere.

2. Upper control arm: I might have the term wrong, since it's been awhile. But you can find them in the racing circuit - they look similiar, in a loose way, to turn-buckles. They push the top of the wheel/carrier outward. Corrects the camber, but have 2 downsides. One is it pushed your wheel/carrier outward...so you might end up with fender rub if you try to run wider tires. Second is you have to keep you eye on them (inspect occasionally)...as some of them aren't as sturdy as the original set-up.

3. Kmac kit: Essentially bushing change - from symetric to asymetric. The positive is it pulls the bottom of the wheel/carrier inward (as compared to pushing the top of the wheel/carrier outward). The downside I've read/heard about (since I've not done it) is the installation. Some folks have reported it's a real pain - the tool that comes with the kit doesn't work very well. Others have reported the job went smooth. So you'll want to read what others say.

4. Shortend lower control arms: There's a company now selling shortened LCA's for the W124. I don't have the web address/link handy, but if you want to know more, write me and I'll find it. The upside with this solution is they pull the bottom of the wheel/carrier inward. And unlike #2 above, you don't have to monitor them/inspect or readjust...since they're solid metal. Downside is they aren't adjustable - they move camber toward positive - but you have to take what they give you - which I think is about a correction of 1.5 to 2. (Which happens to be what most folks are looking for.)


http://www.rdmtek.com/

Diesel

The actual rub is occurring in the middle of the fender at the top of the wheel. I checked the location you mentioned, no black marks there.

Ken, I have the rear camber kit from KMAC. Do you think the front kit they offer will fix this problem?

ksing44

I am definitely not an expert about this, but I do not think your problem is camber related. Could you adjust those adjustable Koni shocks of yours to be a bit more firm to see if that stops the problem? It seems a stiffer shock should help reduce the rub. Also the bump stop solution might be a good idea too. My Bilstein Sport shocks came with some kind of bump stop from the factory, although I didn't see them because my Indy did the work. Do your Koni shocks have bump stops? If they do, you could replace with slightly larger ones. If they don't, maybe you need some.

Diesel

I installed new MB bump pads when I lowered the suspension a few years back.I just don't remember what number I used (Im not sure if the Konis had them or not)....I think what I will do is show the shop here where I had the recent work done if they think the KMAC front kit will fix the problem.
But in truth,I think I will just tolerate this until the front tire wears. It is a very minor rub when I bottom out. The shop suggested I live with this and felt it was due to the shape of the tire since I wasnt having this issue before. They figure it will go away with time. I am supposed to go back after 3000 KM to have the alignment rechecked. If there is excessive wear, I think I will change the bump pads and possibly order the KMAC front kit

ksing44

I think you are still a little confused about spring pads that have little bumps to indicate their size and the bump stops that fit on the shaft of the shocks. Please see the quote below from an earlier post.

New spring pads are a pain to replace, since you have to basically remove the springs to place the things on top of the springs in the spring perch. That will also raise the ride height of your car. Bump stops are on the shaft of the shock. They simply change the total travel of the shock and they are relatively easy to install by removing the shocks and sliding them on the shaft of the shock.

Not that I am trying to force you do anything, if it really isn't too bad. I just think you should be clear about the difference between spring pads that happen to have some little bumps and bump pads that fit on the shock shafts.

RHW

I assume going with 40s is too great a rubber sacrifice,
but 40s would both lower the car and could possibly alleviate that location's rubbing.

The 18s I just got came w 40s, and I am switching to 45s if possible,
45s ordered/on the way,
but it has surprised me how tolerable the 40s are to run on.

Ksing, I may have a touch of good news re a spare rim you were looking for. And, excellent suggestions above.

ksing44

You would be my hero if you found me a matching spare.

Also, your SL looks great!!!

RHW

Well, the SL is Becky's not mine but she's happy which translates well for me.
And I THINK I have one of those rims coming this way for you.

YNVDIZ124, Your input is extremely appreciated, even if I am an oaf and posted this on the wrong thread.

edcarls

With this problem you can do three things 1) roll your fender lips, 2) install new bump stop and spacer or 3) install narrower tires.

Diesel

Ken, thanks for the clarification

YNVDIZW124

I think we can help you better with pictures because you shouldn't be rubbing specially on 215/45/17.

Diesel

Will put pics up tomorrow night. Thanks for the help.

Diesel

Weather was nicer today, so I took some pics. It looks to me like the top of the right front wheel is sitting more under the fender than the left. Again, its the left front that is rubbing when I hit a dip in the road.

Diesel

The rubbing is happening under the mid portion of the fender lip. ???? Why is this happening

Diesel

some more