loclark757

Ok put it all together but I have a leak on the seal for the fuel pump...I forgot to replace them and just went with it anyway what a huge mistake now I have to drain the gas again and pull the fuel filter.

Im guessing I have to use new copper washers in order to get it sealed correctly...

The washers are number 9 in the FSM under 07.3-5563

Would it be possible to find these at a hardware store or autoparts store...

wagmar

You must have the copper sealing washers in place. You should be able to buy them at NAPA or Autozone. Make sure the connections are tight, otherwise a leak will develop.

loclark757

I went to six different places! None of them had it. Sold out at Autozone...

Im going to try the dealership...

its a 12x14x1mm copper washer

wagmar

The dealership will have it. Save time & hassle on a small, necessary part.

loclark757

The new seals were put in but still a leak with gas and air bubbles. I can't seem to get the screw straight into the fuel filter. Its slightly crooked a hair. Im going to try my other set of fuel pumps.

Got a massive leak in the main fuel line that goes to the engine. The leak is in the fitting. The male piece on the metal fuel line is really loose and rusted all around. Same thing there gas is spewing out making a hissing noise like air is escaping.

The car didn't ignite and no fuel got to the spark plugs... However, the pump ran beautifully when I primed it each time with the key.

How do I fix the connection on the fuel line?

wagmar

If you will look closely, the fuel filter has a "nut" integrated onto each side of the filter housing. Hold one side firmly with an open end wrench, then tighten the fitting with another open end wrench. That should make the seal. Usually, when I change my filter, it leaks the first time at the "banjo" connector at the out-put side of the filter. Then I tighten as necessary. Re-prime, then hold & start.

loclark757

What about the other leak? How do I fix the fitting that joins the metal gas fuel line to the fuel pressure line...

That's how I did it with the help of that nut. I just have to straighten out the banjo screw. I think the thread is fried on it since I put the banjo screw in two both times not centered. The screw is leaning.

wagmar

You will never achieve a tight seal if any union or connection is cross-threaded. The wrench to use on the metal hose looks like a box end wrench with part of the radial arc removed. You can purchase those at any auto-parts store or at Sears. Use caution as you can end up bending the metal hose if you use too much force.

loclark757

How much is it to replace that line?

$

wagmar

The line with the tubular steel end is about $18.00 at autohausaz.com

loclark757

I think I got it. It didn't leak from the fuel pressure line cross fitting. I tightened it more with two wrenches.

Still a tiny whizz of bubbles and gas coming from the seal on the banjo screw.

The car didn't turn on again! The two lines going into the fuel distributor let off a lot of gas that sprayed everywhere when I loosened them.

The spark plugs were dry!

The injectors are not performing or something! What's the next step...

wagmar

Your fuel system is pressurizing, that is a good sign. Work on tightening the banjo fitting. A little seepage there will not prevent the engine from starting or running.

Now you need to see if the cylinders are getting spark. Remove a spark plug, connect the lead to it, have someone crank the starter, and you should see a spark jumping the gap of the plug.

If you are not getting spark, you may have a bad coil. If you are getting spark, then you need to make sure the cyl. is getting fuel. Pull the other plugs to see if they are wet with gasoline.

loclark757

Ok no spark at all from the plugs! I should have checked this earlier. Still learning.

The plugs were still dry to the touch but faintly smell of gas. Im guessing they're getting sprayed. Because where would all that fuel go if I have pressure.

Im going to get a coil from pick and pull if I can find one! The one I have on there now looks really old...

loclark757

I replaced the ignition coil with a different one from the junkyard. Still won't start and no spark...

One of the fuses in the OVP relay is toast! Im going to replace them both and go from there...

loclark757

Changed the fuses! I have a pretty new OVP relay. Nothing changed...

Still no spark!

What can I do next? Ignition control module???

loclark757

Ok got spark now! Used a coil from a junked 90' 300E and a brand new OVP relay.

However, there seems to be a drip leak coming from the oil drain plug. The threads on the female piece of the oil pan have worn out.

Im guessing I have to replace the pan now...

loclark757

I've got bad gas! The oil drain plug is now fixed as well.

Im going to drain some gas and add about 6 gallons plus some fuel stablizer then run the fuel pumps and bleed the line that supplies the fuel distributor... Its only flowing about 15psi and the gas smells like varnish

loclark757

#1 piston was not set to TDC. That is why it did not fire. It was good the entire time.

At least Im pretty sure thats the case. Im a lot smarter now!

wagmar

Finally!

loclark757

Somehow it got moved when I hooked up the head...

wagmar

Timing is everything. Hope its running great. I have added another 124 car to my stable; a 95 e320 w/250k miles. The 104 engine is strong, powerful & economical. I need to replace my front seal on that one. The gasket on my 91 is without leaks; no oil anywhere.

loclark757

The M103 engine is usually a valve/head job every 100k miles. Some people go longer. The lower part of the engine is extremely robust.

Im not sure about the M104 yet. It has 204k miles. I have the same small leak at the seal in my 1994 E320. Plus another leak of which I can't remember because I get my cars mixed up now.

wagmar

My 89 300e has 240k miles on it. I am the first owner (just made the last payment last month!) Paid for long ago, really. Never had the head off, no leaks at right rear of head, valves are good, 20 mpg in town. I did valve guide seals at 175k miles due to rise in oil consumption. About every two years the front timing cover starts to leak at the edges. I use 5oz of acetone (it cleans varnish and disperses any moisture attracted by the ethanol) and 5 oz. of Lucas upper lube or 2 cycle injector oil with every 15 gal. fill up. Never had any fuel system problems on any of my cars, ever.

I believe the best protection for the head gasket and valves is to never let the engine get hot. The rate of thermal expansion between cast iron and aluminum has go to be HELL on gasket material, especially where its thin at the back of the engine.