'95 E320 Wagon auto-leveling..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Stamford CT.
1995 E320 wagon
'95 E320 Wagon auto-leveling..
I've got the Bilstein sports all around, we decided to loosen up the adjustment on the rear auto-leveling hydraulics, (to compensate for car thinking it was perpetually under load), but the ride was bouncy as hell
We tightened it back up and it rides much smoother now. I was wondering if we could adjust it even more, (there is room), for an even better ride??
(all 4 stock tires are in the rear in this pic).
We tightened it back up and it rides much smoother now. I was wondering if we could adjust it even more, (there is room), for an even better ride??
(all 4 stock tires are in the rear in this pic).
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 253
Likes: 5
From: Temecula, CA
Tesla model S
I don't understand, if you have Bilstein sports all the way around then how would the self-leveling even be operable? You would have removed the hyd struts in the rear and replaced with Bilsteins
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
Likes: 2
300TE, 300CE
And, assuming you kept the factory SLS, by "tightening" or "loosing" the height adjustment rod, all you are doing is changing the height of the back relative to ground.
That does not do much to affect the ride quality "for an even better ride" other than maybe more body roll at highest height and maybe less body roll at lowest height.
Most people would change ride quality with springs, roll bars, and struts (which you did).
"Bouncy as hell" from the SLS means worn out accumulators.
Have you flushed the SLS with new hydraulic fluid? If not, then do that first.
That does not do much to affect the ride quality "for an even better ride" other than maybe more body roll at highest height and maybe less body roll at lowest height.
Most people would change ride quality with springs, roll bars, and struts (which you did).
"Bouncy as hell" from the SLS means worn out accumulators.
Have you flushed the SLS with new hydraulic fluid? If not, then do that first.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
Likes: 2
300TE, 300CE
SLS fluid flush
FYI, here is the George Murphy technique for the SLS hydraulic fluid flush:
HYDROPNEUMATIC SUSPENSION FLUSH
DO THIS EVERY 30,000 miles!
(Have 2 friends ready - one heavy friend at the rear
of the car and one in the driver's seat standing by to help...(can be any
weight)...
1 - Remove the fluid return line from the top of hydraulic fluid reservoir
and remove fill cap - use a piece of scrap hose to route return line oil to
a 1 gallon container placed under the car to catch old fluid as it comes out.
2 - The filter is located under the fill cap - part no 002-184-55-01 -
remove old one and leave cap off reservoir.
(Some Euro models require removal of the level control valve from the top of
reservoir)
3 - Have 3 liters of new fluid ready to pour into reservoir - take lid off
bottle (part no 000 989 91 03 - $7.50 per liter from me) and remove foil
seal because you have to be fast about this. Use a turkey baster to remove
all old fluid from the reservoir, then add about a liter of new fluid.
4 - Have one friend start the car; have other (heavier) friend bounce rear
of car to exercise rear suspension while you pour new hydraulic fluid into
reservoir as it is pumped through system and into catch bucket under car -
this is called feed and bleed...you have to keep feeding in new fluid as the
old fluid is pumped into catch bucket under the car.
5 - When new clean fluid emerges from return hose, shut off engine (and stop
bouncing rear of car). Fill reservoir to correct level as marked on side of
reservoir. Install new filter and re-connect return line to closure cap
assembly. Start car and check for leaks and top up fluid level if necessary..
HYDROPNEUMATIC SUSPENSION FLUSH
DO THIS EVERY 30,000 miles!
(Have 2 friends ready - one heavy friend at the rear
of the car and one in the driver's seat standing by to help...(can be any
weight)...
1 - Remove the fluid return line from the top of hydraulic fluid reservoir
and remove fill cap - use a piece of scrap hose to route return line oil to
a 1 gallon container placed under the car to catch old fluid as it comes out.
2 - The filter is located under the fill cap - part no 002-184-55-01 -
remove old one and leave cap off reservoir.
(Some Euro models require removal of the level control valve from the top of
reservoir)
3 - Have 3 liters of new fluid ready to pour into reservoir - take lid off
bottle (part no 000 989 91 03 - $7.50 per liter from me) and remove foil
seal because you have to be fast about this. Use a turkey baster to remove
all old fluid from the reservoir, then add about a liter of new fluid.
4 - Have one friend start the car; have other (heavier) friend bounce rear
of car to exercise rear suspension while you pour new hydraulic fluid into
reservoir as it is pumped through system and into catch bucket under car -
this is called feed and bleed...you have to keep feeding in new fluid as the
old fluid is pumped into catch bucket under the car.
5 - When new clean fluid emerges from return hose, shut off engine (and stop
bouncing rear of car). Fill reservoir to correct level as marked on side of
reservoir. Install new filter and re-connect return line to closure cap
assembly. Start car and check for leaks and top up fluid level if necessary..
