No start E320, after K38 / ATA fix...
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
No start E320, after K38 / ATA fix...
I have a '94 Cabriolet with the updated harness. Idrove it on a very hot day and immediately noticed the blower not working so no AC. What's odd is the flat blower fuse is not broken. I drove it less than a mile and parked it for an hour and find it would not start. On one attempt it made a weird noise but otherwise no starter.
I direct wired the starter at X27 center pin thus pointing the problem to wiring, NSS, and K38/ATA. For those who weren't aware, if you turn the key to #2 position the car will start, not just switching the starter. It got my car home.
At home I removed the ATA plugs and added the K38 jumper but still no start.
With the key turned to the right, I moved the shifter to both ends and heard a noise (air pump?) come on for only P & N but no start. I'm not sure what that means.
With key at #2. I have 12.15V to ground at the bottom holder of fuse #5 but only .75V at the top. What does it mean if I don't have 12V on top? I measure static 12.40V at the battery. If I remove the fuse the long black relay directly behind the fuse box buzzes. I pulled up the fuse holder but #5 appears to have many wires attached to that terminal underneath, mostly Violet and black.
I am planning on jumping the NSS after I remove the black panel under the dash and find the connector to test that switch.
I pulled codes 21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short & 26 Upshift Delay Faulty. I could not use my home made code reader for 8 & 14 because pin 16 only had.75V, not 12V and not enough to light up the LED.
What else am I missing?
I direct wired the starter at X27 center pin thus pointing the problem to wiring, NSS, and K38/ATA. For those who weren't aware, if you turn the key to #2 position the car will start, not just switching the starter. It got my car home.
At home I removed the ATA plugs and added the K38 jumper but still no start.
With the key turned to the right, I moved the shifter to both ends and heard a noise (air pump?) come on for only P & N but no start. I'm not sure what that means.
With key at #2. I have 12.15V to ground at the bottom holder of fuse #5 but only .75V at the top. What does it mean if I don't have 12V on top? I measure static 12.40V at the battery. If I remove the fuse the long black relay directly behind the fuse box buzzes. I pulled up the fuse holder but #5 appears to have many wires attached to that terminal underneath, mostly Violet and black.
I am planning on jumping the NSS after I remove the black panel under the dash and find the connector to test that switch.
I pulled codes 21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short & 26 Upshift Delay Faulty. I could not use my home made code reader for 8 & 14 because pin 16 only had.75V, not 12V and not enough to light up the LED.
What else am I missing?
Last edited by pifcat2; Aug 29, 2010 at 12:13 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
NSS jumpered, still no start
jumpered plug #3 for v/gn and #4 for v/wt
I will remove the lower dash and trace the wiring to the ignition switch. I found some spliced wiring that may go to the toggle switch in the coin box. When the ATA was connected, it lit the LED when toggled.
I will remove the lower dash and trace the wiring to the ignition switch. I found some spliced wiring that may go to the toggle switch in the coin box. When the ATA was connected, it lit the LED when toggled.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Car starts with ignition switch!
After I removed the lower panel bypassed the NSS it didn't start so I removed the lower dash to trace it back to the ignition as well as disassembling the connectors and confirming the wires. I rechecked the voltage at the x27 plug and got 10V at the center pin with the key on to #2 position. I then plugged it in an it started from the key in the ignition.
I "think" I had the x27 plug disconnected after jumping the NSS. Now that it works, it indicates a bad NSS so I'll test it with a another switch...
In retrospect it may be better to jumper the NSS before the K38 as it's somewhat easier to access. I read it's good to jumper it anyway to prevent future failure so no time lost.
Next time the x27 12V bypass works, I'll check these in this order until it starts: 12V at Battery > Replace #5 fuse > test voltage or at both sides of fuse > key turned right while moving gear selector > jumper NSS X/92 plug #3 & #4 receptacles > jumper K38 relay at pins 30 & 87 > ignition switch
Hope this helps someone in the future...
I "think" I had the x27 plug disconnected after jumping the NSS. Now that it works, it indicates a bad NSS so I'll test it with a another switch...
In retrospect it may be better to jumper the NSS before the K38 as it's somewhat easier to access. I read it's good to jumper it anyway to prevent future failure so no time lost.
Next time the x27 12V bypass works, I'll check these in this order until it starts: 12V at Battery > Replace #5 fuse > test voltage or at both sides of fuse > key turned right while moving gear selector > jumper NSS X/92 plug #3 & #4 receptacles > jumper K38 relay at pins 30 & 87 > ignition switch
Hope this helps someone in the future...
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Dublin, CA
2009 C350 + 2023 EQS SUV 450 4matic + 2017 E300
Quick question. You stated in your posting that:
"At home I removed the ATA plugs and added the K38 jumper but still no start."
Could you tell me what this K38 jumper is? There is a 14 pin and 8 pin connector to the ATA. Which connector and which pins do I jump?
Thank you in advance.
Clanster
"At home I removed the ATA plugs and added the K38 jumper but still no start."
Could you tell me what this K38 jumper is? There is a 14 pin and 8 pin connector to the ATA. Which connector and which pins do I jump?
Thank you in advance.
Clanster
