rubix_cube12

het ya'll
my 300e with 150k miles and it doesnt want to get into reverse. it goes into every other gear but reverse. at first it seemed as if my torque converter was going out but then wouldnt that make it not go into any gear?
anybody have this problem before? any ideas?
thanks.

Arnie

I hate to me the first one to brake the news, but your AT is done. Loosing reverse is the first sign of it, and the mileage is about right, too.

RHW

Common ailment, use the search function here for many, long posts on the topic. Probably cost you between $800 and $2700 depending on your longer term plans for the car.

190E 16V

This happens all the time in W124 trannies - the Reverse is the first to go.

Time for a rebuild.

kpolen315

Maybe it is an unspoken solution because a car savvy person on here would never dream of doing something so stupid, but my '92 300e was having trouble going into reverse because I had let the transmission fluid run dry since a full fluids change about 4 or 5 years ago.

After the ability to shift into reverse slowly deteriorated over the last week, it finally stopped working altogether yesterday. I decided to check the trans fluid level today (first time I've ever done so). Dipstick was clean as a whistle.

I refilled the transmission fluid, making sure to let the engine run for a while first, and the reverse started working just like it used to. The problem with the reverse over the last week only happened after the engine had heated up, so I tested it that way. Unfortunately, I can only imagine I have done some damage to the transmission by neglecting it's fluid level (or lack thereof) for so long, but it is working.

I am ashamed of how bad I have abused this trusty car--as I have now let it at one time or another run out of coolant, steering fluid, and now transmission fluid. In each of these instances it probably was driven for a week before I realized that it was not just low, but completely dry of said fluids.

It is at about 296k (bought it at 176k) and despite the abuse I have never had a problem with the engine or trans until now. The endurance under the hood of this car is ungodly.

-KP

rubix_cube12

yeah im gonna try that because when the car and fluids are cold, the thing goes into reverse simply. but when the fluid heats up by driving for about ten miles, it takes really long to go in gear if it does at all.

kpolen315

So as a follow-up to my transmission fluid fix as described above. The reverse is still working and I have driven trips of up to 20 miles or so. It does take a couple seconds to kick in, but is reliably kicking in again.

-KP

190E 16V

Mine has been doing that for 3 years now, but it's due for a rebuild - so's yours, by the sound of it. Sorry.

JAWMERC

Sounds like your B-3 band has worn out more than likely and that usually is the first thing to go, my 88 300E was doing the same thing before I left, the best thing to do which plenty of people have said already, time for a rebuild.

wagmar

[quote=kpolen315;4389061]Maybe it is an unspoken solution because a car savvy person on here would never dream of doing something so stupid, but my '92 300e was having trouble going into reverse because I had let the transmission fluid run dry since a full fluids change about 4 or 5 years ago.

After the ability to shift into reverse slowly deteriorated over the last week, it finally stopped working altogether yesterday. I decided to check the trans fluid level today (first time I've ever done so). Dipstick was clean as a whistle.

I refilled the transmission fluid, making sure to let the engine run for a while first, and the reverse started working just like it used to. The problem with the reverse over the last week only happened after the engine had heated up, so I tested it that way. Unfortunately, I can only imagine I have done some damage to the transmission by neglecting it's fluid level (or lack thereof) for so long, but it is working.

I am ashamed of how bad I have abused this trusty car--as I have now let it at one time or another run out of coolant, steering fluid, and now transmission fluid. In each of these instances it probably was driven for a week before I realized that it was not just low, but completely dry of said fluids.

It is at about 296k (bought it at 176k) and despite the abuse I have never had a problem with the engine or trans until now. The endurance under the hood of this car is ungodly.

wagmar

B3 clutch pack needs new friction disks and possibly new steels. Also, you need to replace the front pump seal as it cracks w/age and there won't be enough pressure to activate the B3 pack. Mine failed at 200 k. Since I was an employee at the dealership, I received a discount; the work was done by our MB Master Certified mech. w/ 25 yrs. experience. You do not need a complete overhaul.

wagmar

[quote=kpolen315;4389061]Maybe it is an unspoken solution because a car savvy person on here would never dream of doing something so stupid, but my '92 300e was having trouble going into reverse because I had let the transmission fluid run dry since a full fluids change about 4 or 5 years ago.

After the ability to shift into reverse slowly deteriorated over the last week, it finally stopped working altogether yesterday. I decided to check the trans fluid level today (first time I've ever done so). Dipstick was clean as a whistle.

I refilled the transmission fluid, making sure to let the engine run for a while first, and the reverse started working just like it used to. The problem with the reverse over the last week only happened after the engine had heated up, so I tested it that way. Unfortunately, I can only imagine I have done some damage to the transmission by neglecting it's fluid level (or lack thereof) for so long, but it is working.

I am ashamed of how bad I have abused this trusty car--as I have now let it at one time or another run out of coolant, steering fluid, and now transmission fluid. In each of these instances it probably was driven for a week before I realized that it was not just low, but completely dry of said fluids.

It is at about 296k (bought it at 176k) and despite the abuse I have never had a problem with the engine or trans until now. The endurance under the hood of this car is ungodly.

wagmar

My bands were in good shape. Front pump seal and clutch pack seals were very brittle and cracked which affected the internal pressures.

toreboee

I encountered the problem where I would put the car in reverse and it would go for about a yard and then lock up. If i put the gear lever in N and back to R it would go for another yard and lock up and so on.
I have just reinstalled my tranny after taking it out myself and opening it up in my basement. (keeping things as clean as possible)
The spring plate between LB3 piston and the first steel was snapped into two pieces. I spoke to a mechanic at Transtec who specialize in Mercedes transmissions and he could confirm this was the symptom of worn out B3 friction plates and that the LB3 piston had to travel too far.
I had bought the ATSG manual on EBay, which was very helpful. I am waiting for a new oil filter and gasket from Germany to complete the job.
Because only the reverse was affected it was quite easy to access the problem area since the LB3 Piston and B3 clutches are located behind the front cover/oil pump. I did not have to go further into the transmission. (I hope) I'll post the result hopefully later this week and see if changing the B3 friction plates and the spring plate does the trick. The transmission only have 110000 miles (175000km) on it and that's one of the reasons I did not venture further into the gearbox. It shifts fine from 1 through 4.

autoworrks320

I have the exact same issue as toreboee on my 92 300d. Even though i am getting good at toggling between reverse & neutral & back to reverse I will take a look at it soon.

wagmar

K1 & K2 are most likely OK. I have a 1989 300e with 230k MILES on the tranny and it shifts a good as the day I purchased the car in 1989. The master MB mechanic at the MB dealership said K1 & K2 packs seldom fail.

toreboee

Received the oil filter and gasket from Germany today and finished assembling the last bits and pieces before filling up with new Valvoline ATF. First I put in 3 liters and started the engine before adding another liter. I then lowered the front of the car and put it in D to drive of the rear ramps. It did not engage as pronounced as normal because of the low oil level, but enough to drive of the ramp. Then I added another half liter while the engine was running and went for a test drive.

It shifted nicely in the forward gears and it worked perfect on level ground in reverse. However reversing up hill seamed a bit more strenuous. Probably because the oil level is too low still.

I will top up the oil level tomorrow after a longer test drive when I've gone through all the gears and the oil is warm.

Total cost of parts excluding oil was $300. Parts in Norway are expensive.
The friction plates cost about $15-$20 a piece in the US. I did not want to chanse geting the incorrect parts since you do not have the E220 with the 722.428 tranny as far as i know. The spring plate probably does not cost much more.

The price of having this done at the workshop with them removing the transmission would have cost arround $4000. $2000 if you give them just the transmission

toreboee

wagmar,

Thats reasuring. I was hoping that would be the case.

wagmar

Remember that the ATF level needs to be between the two marks when hot, on level ground with engine running and in PARK. The amount between the two marks is about 1/3 ltr. only. If it is at the lower mark, do not add 1 ltr. to top it off; adding one litre would be severe overfill.

toreboee

Well, its been a few of days with no reverse problems after the tranny went back in.
The only issue is the oil level. The Manual sais quantity needed is 5.5 ltrs for oil change. From the factory I believe It's 6.6, so I guess opening the gearbox resulted in more oil escaping than on a regular oilchange. I've put in 6 liters now, and its still low. Checked for leaks. None. Any thoughts?

wagmar

At shop temp. near 20 C, the level should be approx. 12 mm BELOW the lower mark. Remember that the new filter absorbs fluid as a sponge does. When hot (after 30 minutes of driving) fluid level should be between the marks. Make sure the vehicle is LEVEL.