Guys, I need a few opinions here. I went and saw a couple of 3.2 M104's. Before I commit myself to anything, I'd like some feedback from people who drive the 3.2's.

According to internet specs, the acceleration times on my 3.0 and the 3.2 are identical, although the 3.2 has almost 40 more ft/lbs of torque. How is this possible? The 3.2 makes its power almost 1000 rpms below the 3.0 (5500 vs 6400), and torque as well (230 ft/lb@3750 vs 195@4500).

I was under the impression that besides gaining EFI and all its assorted advantages (tuning capabilities, slightly better fuel economy, much easier troubleshooting due to OBD) I'd also be getting a performance upgrade along with it.

I've already contacted Perfect Power about their SMT units, as I had one on my old E30 and I was pleased with it. It should also be compatible to the 3.2 M104. They'll be replying back to me today, so I'll let you know.

Any and all input to this is welcome. I double and triple checked the stats online, so I'm reasonably sure they're accurate.

 

Feel and response are very different how? The only thing I noticed when driving an automatic 320 held in gear was that it was definitely more responsive down low. Far more. My car has a deadzone from idle to about 1800 rpms. The 320 didn't feel like that at all.

 

The E320 M104 is faster and more responsive and of course you will get a better fuel economy specially with your manual. But the difference wont be by alot...i mean will it be worth it to swap just for an E320? and i dont think is easier to tune neither.
any of your engines can be tuned (300 or 320) but at what cost per bhp...both will cost some $ to squeez some extra hp from it.
I would say go 36 or save your $, and meanwhile try to drive a 1994-1995 E320 or even a 1996 W210 E320 (with the 4 speed automatic). I used to have one in top notch condition (a home made dual air intake, and an upgraded exhaust) and it was surprisingly fast (of course after 60km, since its a heavy car)

 

Actually, Perfect Power wrote me back about my SMT query, and the product is compatible.

http://www.perfectpower.com/index.ph...d=58&Itemid=62

There it is. I've had personal experience with SMT products and I was very satisfied with the ease of tuning the car. It's a piggyback unit, so you needn't worry about inventing the wheel. If I've got this, I'm pretty sure it's easier and more efficient to tune than sticking on a RRFPR and hoping for the best. :P

I agree, but I do intend to turbo. I'd rather turbo the engine that will be easier to tune. I know some consider it an unnecessary cost, upgrading to a similar engine only for the EFI, but I am really convinced it will make things easier in the long run.

I've driven the 1996 E320, a good friend of mine had one. Even after it had gone 380,000 km, it still pulled hard. Was a good car.

 

The lower ( higher numerical ) rear axle ratio in the 3.0L compensates for the additional power of the 3.2L variants.

If you look at road tests of the 300CE when it was released in 1988 you'll find many with 0-60 @ 7.5 seconds with a 16.0/89MPH quarter mile.

The cars when new were quick and my opinion was the 3.0L with the 3.07 axle ratio was a well balanced car throughout the rpm range.
My 1994 A320 still feels slower then the SOHC engine regardless of its added power output. Power tends not to be delivered as smoothly possibly due to the variable engine control.
Early engines had minimal components to control emissions.

 

If you are sure you will turbocharge it, then its worth it going HFM....or maybe just get megasquirt and keep your current engine is also a good idea. Your $ is not wasted here.
But if you are not turbocharging it....go with the 36 would be better in my opinion.

do you have a dogleg in your car or a normal manual? does it have asd ?

 

I have a normal manual, with ASD. The ASD is getting tired, though. Thinking of replacing it with the mechanical LSD off of the 190.

Also intend to install the dogleg in a couple of months, too.

As of now, it looks like I'm going to keep my engine. MegaSquirt is a great idea, but due to extreme difficulty to tune for me, I think I'll just run it off a Split Second injector and controller.

The 3.6 swap isn't completely off the table yet, but unless I find one that's affordable and complete, it isn't going to happen.

I'll know exactly how I'm going to proceed by next week, I'll keep you all posted.

 

megasquirt is difficult...but if you have the time and patience...you will make it.
But once megasquirt is on place...turbocharging will get a lot lot easier

 

Agreed. I've been thinking of buying an old Beetle, that would be great MS practice.

I'm not gonna learn on MY car. :p

 

im sure members over here or the fruit forum can help you a lot with megasquirt. at least with the basic options so you can get your car running safely, than its up to you to fine tune it.

I might get a dogleg in my car too, and my asd is starting to get tired. but im thinking of rebuilding it instead of swapping it. I can order the clutch packs and get it rebuilt...but its not cheap!

hows ur car running now? i donno if i asked you before but did you test your injectors? fuel distributor and eha working well? they do affect a lot how the car runs.
There is a gasket for rebuilding the fuel distributor, i tried it on a freinds 420 SEL and it made a big difference. I will have two of those, one for my car and one for the ex turbo 300E M103 we still have

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-FUEL...item45fc1f9a35

pm me if you want i can get you one with me

 

It would be great if you could do that for me. Yes, before I boost anything, I will get my engine running up to spec. On average it drives well, but there are a few issues bothering me.

1. Under hard acceleration, in 3rd gear and above, it lurches.

2. It occasionally stalls, but after I clutch start it, it runs perfectly.

3. Chain has a grinding sound at around 1500-1800 rpms. I asked around and had someone look at it; seems it needs a new chain tensioner.

4. Valve guides are worn.

5. Fuel economy has taken a hit, and my driving habits haven't changed. It's using about 10% more fuel.

Chlippo, add me on MSN. Shoomakan@hotmail.com.

 

i can give you an msq (megasquirt setting file) for a 103 engine, wasted spark and 36:1 trigger wheel, no probs, you will then need to download megatune and meggalog viewer, and fine tune to your setup; easy

 

Ok guys, here's a little update:

I went and took a compression test today, and the results aren't very encouraging.

Starting from the cylinder closest to the grill, the results are:

Cylinder 1: 200 PSI
Cylinder 2: 198 PSI
Cylinder 3: 185 PSI
Cylinder 4: 165 PSI
Cylinder 5: 190 PSI
Cylinder 6: 200 PSI

According to a knowledgeable friend of mine, the difference in PSI in cylinders 3 and 4 could be due to the valve guides failing, which I do believe is a problem in my engine. It occasionally smokes off acceleration and after I let go of the throttle, and I've read online that those are 2 symptoms of valve guide failure.

I'm going to do another compression test on Monday, and squirt a drop of oil in each cylinder to test if the failure is from the rings or the valve guides.

Any input?

 

Its a hell of a lot healthier than my engine was! Have you redone valve guide seals? I got my kit from buymbparts.biz, it wasn't very expensive at all.

 

Alright, little update.

Car is going in Monday after next for a cylinder head refurb. Changing valve guides, valve seats, and headgasket. Tried the oil in cylinder trick, compression barely varied, so I'm assuming the loss of pressure isn't from within the block, but from the cylinder head.

Also, I purchased a Holset HX35-W. This turbo comes on the Cummins 5.9 litre diesel engines that's used in smaller bulldozers and trucks. Fun fact: On the Cummins, it operates at 30PSI continuously and has a very reliable service record.

Before I bought it, I looked online for as much info as I could find on it. I found that it is being mostly used on VW VR6's, Saabs, and some other car you boys have in the States that isn't available here.

The VR6s's interest me the most, as they are very similar in displacement to my engine, and the dynographs and powerbands look interesting. I'm sure in comparison to the 12V VR6, the 24V M104 will have better spool up time and performance.

The turbo I bought is also internally wastegated, so that's a little work I don't need to do anymore.

Next month, it's Split Second time. When I've assembled all the parts I need, I'll start a dedicated build thread. Lord knows we need one here.

 

I'd inspect cylinder 4 as it is outside on the factory tolerance of one bar variance between cylinders.
Others look excellent.
Probably would retest first to see if there was an anomaly that caused the lower reading on 4.

 

Sick stuff. Looking forward to what you figure out

 

Well, a major update here...

First, a little backstory. 5 years ago, before I bought my E30 335i, I found an immaculate BMW E34 Touring 540i 6 speed manual, one of 500 made worldwide. I rushed to buy it, but it was already gone. At that point in time, I swore I'd sell a kidney if I ever found it again.

I found it today. It's for sale, for a bargain price. I'm going to inspect it this week, and if everything checks out, I'll be buying it.

Of course, I can't afford to maintain two uber German saloons, so the W124 will have to go. I love my car, but the 540i is my Eleanor. I've wanted one since I was a child, and now that I can afford to buy one nothing will stop me.

That being said, while I may no longer be a W124 member, I will still check in every now and then to spread my wisdom among you.

Cheers all, wish me luck!

 

Why you two timing dog you.

 

mmm.....so you are a fan of wagons?

im interrested knowing how cheap, pm me if you dont mind, since i had the option to buy an M5 sedan a couple of months ago.

and post pictures!

 

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

Chlippo, I'm a HUGE fan of wagons. Here's my old E30/M30. It was modified to the T.

Price is less than 3500$. Guy has been trying to sell it for a while now, but no one in Lebanon wants a V8 BMW, much less a manual Touring. So yay for me!

RHW, is that yours? Gimme an idea how much go those things really have. We used to own a 535iA back in the day, and I don't recall it being faster at all than my W124.

I know it's not 500E quick, but do you think if I dropped it it would hit 180 mph???

 

And before anyone gives me high hell on those rims I used to have, I hated them. I was going to revert back to the original honeycombs, but the car got sold.

 

Naw, was funnin with the brand jump. It sounds great, should run it for awhile to make sure what you have.

 

What're you gonna do with all the goodies you put on the w124? Like the EvoIIs :P

Also, you ******* :P

 

If you're willing to pay for the wheels AND shipping from the Middle East, they're yours. :P

It's far cheaper to buy them from wherever you are. Aramex and DHL charge 11$ per pound of air shipping. Assume the wheels alone are 80 pounds.