Opions on Turbo Diesels? 87 TD Wagons?
06-04-2003, 12:15 PM
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Neon ACR, lookin at 87 300td
Opions on Turbo Diesels? 87 TD Wagons?
I'm looking at an excellent condition 87 300TD wagon. Anybody here have one? It's at a 135,000miles. Guy wants $7000, I'm thinking maybe $4000. Not sure what he will take. Is there anything special too look out for in turbo diesels?
Total MB newbie, just looks like a good car, any advice at all appreciated, thanks,
David
Total MB newbie, just looks like a good car, any advice at all appreciated, thanks,
David
06-04-2003, 01:52 PM
#2
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What color is the car, and where is it located?
I traded my metallic brown '87TD in Charlotte, in January, on a C230SportSedan. Odometer was almost 135k, but car actually had 200k+.
The last 4 digits of my VIN were 3344.
Things to check:
Ventilation/AC was historically problematic, and expensive to fix. Be certain to check out climate control in all modes (heating, cooling, AC, defrost). Check the owner's manual to ensure that air of the correct temperature (heated or cooled) is coming from the correct vents.
Check all power windows and sunroof for proper operation.
The rubber in the rear end bushings tends to rot after 10years, and this allows the links to move around, giving a feeling as if driving on ice (rear end wobbles just a bit). If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can replace all of the rear bushings in a day, for about $500.
Check for service records. These engines will last 400kmiles+, as long as they are serviced regularly (oil changes are vital for diesel engines).
Check that the engine starts fine when cold. Try to start it as cold as possible (early morning). If the engine is low on compression, the car will take a long time (even with glow plugs) to start on a cool morning.
Check for leaks in the hydraulic system for the rear suspension. A pair of shocks for the rear of the car will set you back big$$$.
Transmission may shift harshly if there are broken vacuum lines.
Good luck, it's a great car - safe, reliable, comfortable, economical.
I traded my metallic brown '87TD in Charlotte, in January, on a C230SportSedan. Odometer was almost 135k, but car actually had 200k+.
The last 4 digits of my VIN were 3344.
Things to check:
Ventilation/AC was historically problematic, and expensive to fix. Be certain to check out climate control in all modes (heating, cooling, AC, defrost). Check the owner's manual to ensure that air of the correct temperature (heated or cooled) is coming from the correct vents.
Check all power windows and sunroof for proper operation.
The rubber in the rear end bushings tends to rot after 10years, and this allows the links to move around, giving a feeling as if driving on ice (rear end wobbles just a bit). If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can replace all of the rear bushings in a day, for about $500.
Check for service records. These engines will last 400kmiles+, as long as they are serviced regularly (oil changes are vital for diesel engines).
Check that the engine starts fine when cold. Try to start it as cold as possible (early morning). If the engine is low on compression, the car will take a long time (even with glow plugs) to start on a cool morning.
Check for leaks in the hydraulic system for the rear suspension. A pair of shocks for the rear of the car will set you back big$$$.
Transmission may shift harshly if there are broken vacuum lines.
Good luck, it's a great car - safe, reliable, comfortable, economical.
06-04-2003, 04:29 PM
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Neon ACR, lookin at 87 300td
Thanks
Yeah, I'm a do it yourselfer, a cussin' kind.
It's gray/gray, somewhere in Tennessee.
Thanks for the pointers that's exactly what I was looking for. Would I be looking for something like oil on the rear suspension? Where exactly? I've got Koni's on my Neon ACR and they leak a little, looks almost like houseold lubricant.
The guy says he has all the records, I have yet to inspect in person myself. Might do it this weekend. Is $4k reasonable?
THANKS again
It's gray/gray, somewhere in Tennessee.
Thanks for the pointers that's exactly what I was looking for. Would I be looking for something like oil on the rear suspension? Where exactly? I've got Koni's on my Neon ACR and they leak a little, looks almost like houseold lubricant.
The guy says he has all the records, I have yet to inspect in person myself. Might do it this weekend. Is $4k reasonable?
THANKS again
06-05-2003, 08:18 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you can jack up the car (or look at it on a lift), look at the shock pistons. Typically, the piston seal will leak if the shocks are bad. You may see hydraulic fluid leaking down the shock and off of the lower mounting bracket. Also check the hydraulic hoses between the shocks and the accumulators (small cannon-ball looking devices up above and forward of the rear axle). Follow the hydraulic lines from there to the levelling valve assembly (connected by a lever attached to the rear sway bar). Then follow lines forward to hydraulic pump and reservoir at front driver's side of engine compartment.
If the rear of the car bounces sharply (not a slow, smooth, comfortable rise/fall) over bumps, then the accumulators need to be replaced.
If you get the car & need the factory shop manual, I still have the 2CD set for that car. Let me know and we can work a deal.
If you get the car, check out places like PerformanceProducts.com, and adsit.com for parts. Parts prices are actually reasonable, until you need major components (A/C compressors, diesel injection pumps, etc.) - but you can find these units remanufactured on the web. I have purchased from both places - had some problems with PerformanceProducts parts (had to modify them to fit sometimes). There are also other places on the web as well.
$4000 is a very good price. That is actually below wholesale for the car. Wholesale for the car is in the $4500-$6000 range, depending on mileage/condition.
If the rear of the car bounces sharply (not a slow, smooth, comfortable rise/fall) over bumps, then the accumulators need to be replaced.
If you get the car & need the factory shop manual, I still have the 2CD set for that car. Let me know and we can work a deal.
If you get the car, check out places like PerformanceProducts.com, and adsit.com for parts. Parts prices are actually reasonable, until you need major components (A/C compressors, diesel injection pumps, etc.) - but you can find these units remanufactured on the web. I have purchased from both places - had some problems with PerformanceProducts parts (had to modify them to fit sometimes). There are also other places on the web as well.
$4000 is a very good price. That is actually below wholesale for the car. Wholesale for the car is in the $4500-$6000 range, depending on mileage/condition.
