W124 Instruments
02-14-2012, 09:43 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
W124 Instruments
Hey, gang. It's been awhile since I've been on this list, and before I get into the question, I'd like to say he 93 300E 2.8 with 189k miles on it, is still going great. Just had the throttle body replaced (threw a code and was in limp-home mode). Still in great shape, too. I installed Euro headlights (easy installation, BTW), and a new front bumper and cover (not factory, but darn close) and it looks gorgeous from the front. I've had a niggling A/C issue so I will likely be tearing into the dash and replacing the controls first, before tearing out the dash to replace any solenoid-controlled vents (I've got the center one already in the garage, just in case...). Had to replace the A/C fan with a factory unit, as the aftermarket ones sometime seem to be made to run "backwards", or so they say. The new fan throws air out like crazy, but even with a new A/C compressor, it is still warmer with a full charge, than our 98 S70 Volvo.
So, onto the problem with the instruments.
From Day One of our ownership, the fuel gauge has been stuck on Full until it gets about 1/2 full and then it's accurate. Sometimes, I can tap on the top of the instrument pod and the vibration shakes it into life. Also, I've recently noticed that since I had new wires put in-place for a few which were frayed (it's had the engine harness replaced under my ownership... the German engineer who spec'd that awful wire mfgr should be forced to drive one and be forced to drink warm beer), going to the starter. It was the oil pressure gauge wire from the sender and the dang thing was likely shorted out, so the gauge is now always at full pressure once started.
So, is there any way to fix these two gauges? Can one repair them? Or, can I buy a new cluster and remove these two gauges and put them in my car?
Thanks!!!
As HM Manney III once said... "Keep the shiny side UP!"
Nick-Ohio
So, onto the problem with the instruments.
From Day One of our ownership, the fuel gauge has been stuck on Full until it gets about 1/2 full and then it's accurate. Sometimes, I can tap on the top of the instrument pod and the vibration shakes it into life. Also, I've recently noticed that since I had new wires put in-place for a few which were frayed (it's had the engine harness replaced under my ownership... the German engineer who spec'd that awful wire mfgr should be forced to drive one and be forced to drink warm beer), going to the starter. It was the oil pressure gauge wire from the sender and the dang thing was likely shorted out, so the gauge is now always at full pressure once started.
So, is there any way to fix these two gauges? Can one repair them? Or, can I buy a new cluster and remove these two gauges and put them in my car?
Thanks!!!
As HM Manney III once said... "Keep the shiny side UP!"
Nick-Ohio
02-14-2012, 02:27 PM
#2
Hey, gang. It's been awhile since I've been on this list, and before I get into the question, I'd like to say he 93 300E 2.8 with 189k miles on it, is still going great. Just had the throttle body replaced (threw a code and was in limp-home mode). Still in great shape, too. I installed Euro headlights (easy installation, BTW), and a new front bumper and cover (not factory, but darn close) and it looks gorgeous from the front. I've had a niggling A/C issue so I will likely be tearing into the dash and replacing the controls first, before tearing out the dash to replace any solenoid-controlled vents (I've got the center one already in the garage, just in case...). Had to replace the A/C fan with a factory unit, as the aftermarket ones sometime seem to be made to run "backwards", or so they say. The new fan throws air out like crazy, but even with a new A/C compressor, it is still warmer with a full charge, than our 98 S70 Volvo.
So, onto the problem with the instruments.
From Day One of our ownership, the fuel gauge has been stuck on Full until it gets about 1/2 full and then it's accurate. Sometimes, I can tap on the top of the instrument pod and the vibration shakes it into life. Also, I've recently noticed that since I had new wires put in-place for a few which were frayed (it's had the engine harness replaced under my ownership... the German engineer who spec'd that awful wire mfgr should be forced to drive one and be forced to drink warm beer), going to the starter. It was the oil pressure gauge wire from the sender and the dang thing was likely shorted out, so the gauge is now always at full pressure once started.
So, is there any way to fix these two gauges? Can one repair them? Or, can I buy a new cluster and remove these two gauges and put them in my car?
Thanks!!!
As HM Manney III once said... "Keep the shiny side UP!"
Nick-Ohio
So, onto the problem with the instruments.
From Day One of our ownership, the fuel gauge has been stuck on Full until it gets about 1/2 full and then it's accurate. Sometimes, I can tap on the top of the instrument pod and the vibration shakes it into life. Also, I've recently noticed that since I had new wires put in-place for a few which were frayed (it's had the engine harness replaced under my ownership... the German engineer who spec'd that awful wire mfgr should be forced to drive one and be forced to drink warm beer), going to the starter. It was the oil pressure gauge wire from the sender and the dang thing was likely shorted out, so the gauge is now always at full pressure once started.
So, is there any way to fix these two gauges? Can one repair them? Or, can I buy a new cluster and remove these two gauges and put them in my car?
Thanks!!!
As HM Manney III once said... "Keep the shiny side UP!"
Nick-Ohio
Okay one at a time.
Fuel Gauge
It's probably not the gauge at all - it's the sender in the tank.
Common W124 problem. The sender basically is a saled cansiter with two very fragile wires inside that carry current signal to the gauge up front. They can breaak OR the float can stick on the shaft which sits between those two wires.
There is an excellent post on Peachparts about removing cleaning/repairing.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...g-testing.html
ALSO there is another thing you can try at the instrument panel. It seems that there is a small trimming pot up front that has a tendency to lose stability in its electrical contacts. Solution on Benzworld forum can be found here :
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...el-sender.html
OIL PRESSURE
Join the club - once started my oil pressure gauge sits at just over the 3 bar mark and same driving down the road. This is normal pressure reading as far as I know.
Once warm it drops back to around 2/2.5 at idle.
Does yours not drop at idle ?
02-14-2012, 03:21 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hey Stormtigers,
Thanks for the comments.
The fuel sender in the tank was replaced twice... and nothing changed. I've heard that if the sender is bad, the gauge sticks on "Empty", but I may be wrong. And, if hitting the dash instrument pod with a tap of the hand makes it move to where it's supposed to be... seems to me to be more of a gauge issue than one with the sender.
As for the oil pressure gauge... it refuses to drop back to zero now, but stays up at '3' whenever the key is in the "On" position. It used to drop back to around 2-2.5 at idle, before the wire shorted out. Is there something which can be fixed? Did the 'short' in the wires to the oil pressure sender cause something to 'blow' on the back of the gauge? No issues with any of the fuses... no corrosion and no broken or discolored tin on the fuses. However, it is about time to replace them all again. I usually try to do that on the Benzes every 3-4 years to avoid corrosion on the terminals.
Hey, I like the coupe. (Our (now deceased) 86 300SDL was in midnight blue with a cream beige interior. Very nice.) Good-looking car which didn't have the wiring harness issue. However, I like our twin-cam 6. Only 2.8L and 194 HP, but the sounds it makes when reving are very nice. Not much leakage on the head, as well... very little. I use Mobil 1 in all of our cars (even did on the 77 230 we once owned... called it "The Taxi" as it was like many of the taxis one used to see around the world. Didn't need it anymore, so I sold it. Only 1 Benz left in the garage now, but would like to add to it one of these days and may choose an 08-09 E320 Bluetec... solid cars from what I've researched with owners and dealer mechanics and a fellow from Germany with relatives in the auto biz and who own modern Benz diesels.
Thanks for the comments.
The fuel sender in the tank was replaced twice... and nothing changed. I've heard that if the sender is bad, the gauge sticks on "Empty", but I may be wrong. And, if hitting the dash instrument pod with a tap of the hand makes it move to where it's supposed to be... seems to me to be more of a gauge issue than one with the sender.
As for the oil pressure gauge... it refuses to drop back to zero now, but stays up at '3' whenever the key is in the "On" position. It used to drop back to around 2-2.5 at idle, before the wire shorted out. Is there something which can be fixed? Did the 'short' in the wires to the oil pressure sender cause something to 'blow' on the back of the gauge? No issues with any of the fuses... no corrosion and no broken or discolored tin on the fuses. However, it is about time to replace them all again. I usually try to do that on the Benzes every 3-4 years to avoid corrosion on the terminals.
Hey, I like the coupe. (Our (now deceased) 86 300SDL was in midnight blue with a cream beige interior. Very nice.) Good-looking car which didn't have the wiring harness issue. However, I like our twin-cam 6. Only 2.8L and 194 HP, but the sounds it makes when reving are very nice. Not much leakage on the head, as well... very little. I use Mobil 1 in all of our cars (even did on the 77 230 we once owned... called it "The Taxi" as it was like many of the taxis one used to see around the world. Didn't need it anymore, so I sold it. Only 1 Benz left in the garage now, but would like to add to it one of these days and may choose an 08-09 E320 Bluetec... solid cars from what I've researched with owners and dealer mechanics and a fellow from Germany with relatives in the auto biz and who own modern Benz diesels.
02-14-2012, 04:25 PM
#4
The fuel sender in the tank was replaced twice... and nothing changed. I've heard that if the sender is bad, the gauge sticks on "Empty", but I may be wrong. And, if hitting the dash instrument pod with a tap of the hand makes it move to where it's supposed to be... seems to me to be more of a gauge issue than one with the sender.
BUT as you have done the sender then have a look at the Benzworld post dealing with the pot !
As for the oil pressure gauge... it refuses to drop back to zero now, but stays up at '3' whenever the key is in the "On" position. It used to drop back to around 2-2.5 at idle, before the wire shorted out. Is there something which can be fixed? Did the 'short' in the wires to the oil pressure sender cause something to 'blow' on the back of the gauge? No issues with any of the fuses... no corrosion and no broken or discolored tin on the fuses. However, it is about time to replace them all again. I usually try to do that on the Benzes every 3-4 years to avoid corrosion on the terminals.
Yeah the midnight blue looks great in the W124. I am so glad the PO color matched the bottom panels also - two tone blue doesn;t do it for me.
02-15-2012, 08:09 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Very good info, fella. I will heed your advice and look into using the Stabilant 22 to fix the fuel gauge. As for the oil pressure gauge, given it's in the same cluster as the water temp and fuel gauge, I wonder if I can buy a gauge separately from someone? I'll check around. Maybe, it would be better to get the cluster out of the car and check for what components are now bad and replace (solder) them.
BTW, the W124 has to be one of the best designed cars of all time. It is quite stylish, even today. I'd love to have a 500E, and came close on bidding for William Shatners' car once, out on eBay. Fuel mileage is keeping me away from a 500E. Can't seem to justify 20mpg on a good day on the highway and low to mid teens in town. Incredible cars, though. Now, if that 5.0L were a modern direct-injected version with lower friction cylinder bores and better engine management software, I'd go for it. If the motor were blown or ready for a rebuild, I suppose one could shoe-horn a modern version into the W124, but I am sure it would not be for the feint of heart or slim wallet. So, I'll be content to have the 300E 2.8 for as long as possible and then move on (fixing & maintaining it is less expensive than shelling out $$ for newer Benz, or most any car for that matter).
Thanks, again!!
BTW, the W124 has to be one of the best designed cars of all time. It is quite stylish, even today. I'd love to have a 500E, and came close on bidding for William Shatners' car once, out on eBay. Fuel mileage is keeping me away from a 500E. Can't seem to justify 20mpg on a good day on the highway and low to mid teens in town. Incredible cars, though. Now, if that 5.0L were a modern direct-injected version with lower friction cylinder bores and better engine management software, I'd go for it. If the motor were blown or ready for a rebuild, I suppose one could shoe-horn a modern version into the W124, but I am sure it would not be for the feint of heart or slim wallet. So, I'll be content to have the 300E 2.8 for as long as possible and then move on (fixing & maintaining it is less expensive than shelling out $$ for newer Benz, or most any car for that matter).
Thanks, again!!
02-15-2012, 12:50 PM
#6
Very good info, fella. I will heed your advice and look into using the Stabilant 22 to fix the fuel gauge. As for the oil pressure gauge, given it's in the same cluster as the water temp and fuel gauge, I wonder if I can buy a gauge separately from someone? I'll check around. Maybe, it would be better to get the cluster out of the car and check for what components are now bad and replace (solder) them.
BTW, the W124 has to be one of the best designed cars of all time. It is quite stylish, even today. I'd love to have a 500E, and came close on bidding for William Shatners' car once, out on eBay. Fuel mileage is keeping me away from a 500E. Can't seem to justify 20mpg on a good day on the highway and low to mid teens in town. Incredible cars, though. Now, if that 5.0L were a modern direct-injected version with lower friction cylinder bores and better engine management software, I'd go for it. If the motor were blown or ready for a rebuild, I suppose one could shoe-horn a modern version into the W124, but I am sure it would not be for the feint of heart or slim wallet. So, I'll be content to have the 300E 2.8 for as long as possible and then move on (fixing & maintaining it is less expensive than shelling out $$ for newer Benz, or most any car for that matter).
Thanks, again!!
BTW, the W124 has to be one of the best designed cars of all time. It is quite stylish, even today. I'd love to have a 500E, and came close on bidding for William Shatners' car once, out on eBay. Fuel mileage is keeping me away from a 500E. Can't seem to justify 20mpg on a good day on the highway and low to mid teens in town. Incredible cars, though. Now, if that 5.0L were a modern direct-injected version with lower friction cylinder bores and better engine management software, I'd go for it. If the motor were blown or ready for a rebuild, I suppose one could shoe-horn a modern version into the W124, but I am sure it would not be for the feint of heart or slim wallet. So, I'll be content to have the 300E 2.8 for as long as possible and then move on (fixing & maintaining it is less expensive than shelling out $$ for newer Benz, or most any car for that matter).
Thanks, again!!
You can buy a whole cluster for around $60-$80 but chances are fuel may have same issue but they are very easy to get out and replace. Guy on Benzworld I know actually circuit traced everything to remedy his issues .
I don't have a steady enough hand or patience myself
Your right about the W124s fantastic cars and the V8 are a dying breed.
If it weren't for the complexitites LP Gas conversion would make it a very useable and cost effective vehicle I would think. Knowing the problems they have doing modern cars dealing with computers etc, such a conversion in an advanced "ageing" car would be constant fun I would think !
Let us know how you go resolving your troubles with the fuel oil gauges.
Ray
