Hi all!

As a W124 newbie I was hoping that the MBworld community could help me out with a couple of initial ponderings concerning my new...

...1993 MB 300 TE (with the 2.3 liter DOHC engine), now on its way from the dry and hot Arizona to the salty shores of Providence, RI. I have owned a dozen MB's before, in my previous European incarnation, mostly W115's, W123's and the occational W107, but never the highly coveted W124 wagon. This example is in excellent condition, 122,000 miles, serviced by the book @ MB, and it has had a number of recent age-appropriate updates such as;

* headgasket, crank seal, V-belt, tensioner+shock.
* new radiator, hoses and w-pump.
* new motor-, and transmission-mounts + rear bushings.
* new wiring harness, front flex disc.
* and new rotors and pads.

The previous owner took these steps in order for the car to run another 100,000 miles without trouble.
The first thing I will do however, is to have it properly rust-proofed, the amount of salt that are spread on the poor roads here in the winter months are nothing but astonishing.

Now, time for some questions...

* when is the timing chain due for replacement?
* what oil would you recommend using? I was thinking of the new
Mobil 1 W 0-40 full synthetic...?....
* where to get a repair manual on CD?
* has anyone had Ziebarts rust-proof their car? Outcome?
* I read somewhere that the MB coolant doesn't fare well with
the headgasket, that you should use regular green coolant
instead. Any truth in that statement?
* anything else to check/update at this mileage that hasn't been
mentioned above?
* where to find a good MB dealership/independent MB mechanic
within 100 miles from Providence, RI?
* are there any existing recalls for the model, and how should I
handle them?
* oh, and BTW, does anyone have a set of 15' steel wheels, or 8-
hole alloys for sale? It'll be November before we know it...

Any and all information in helping me to prepare my new find for the next decade of use are greatly appreciated!!!


Best regards,


Jorgen.

 

Hi,

Welcome to the wonderfull world of W124 wagons. Probably the best all round wagon ever.

I'll try to answer your questions if I can.,

when is the timing chain due for replacement?

I beleive as long as the oil is changed regularly, the chains run to well over 250,000 miles.



* what oil would you recommend using? I was thinking of the new
Mobil 1 W 0-40 full synthetic...?....

There are several threads on this forum and the other one about oil. General concensus seemed to be that fully synthetic was not necessary and the viscousity depends on where you live (weather). Here in the UK I use a 5w40 semi synthetic. No trouble so far.

* where to get a repair manual on CD?

Some on E-bay sometimes

* has anyone had Ziebarts rust-proof their car? Outcome?

Sorry can;t help here. I've got rust (not a lot but enough that it needs to be done soon)

* I read somewhere that the MB coolant doesn't fare well with
the headgasket, that you should use regular green coolant
instead. Any truth in that statement?

No, Use Merc coolant if you can.

* anything else to check/update at this mileage that hasn't been
mentioned above?

Suspension links and bushes, leeking air-con, OVP relay (On 6 cylinder cars, not sure about the 4 cylinder cars).

Have fun wit

 

Thanks for your input abarton!! ...248 Bhp in your wagon, sound like alot of fun...


Jorgen.

 

Jorgen, I've made rustproofing a significant part of my automotive hobby. There's a few tips I can give you. If you can find a shop that uses Texaco rustproofing compounds, this would give you the best protection.

Whatever rustproofing method you use, keep in mind it needs to be done all over again (or at the very least a good touch up) every three or four years. A good testament to that fact is that you see a lot of old rusted-out heaps driving around Chicago with a Rusty Jones (rustproofing) sticker in the window. Not because Rusty Jones does a bad job, but because any rustproofing job will stop protecting after a certain while. There is no rustproofing that is "good-for-life".

A particular issue on these engines is the upper timing cover seal. Keep an eye out for oil leaks coming from the front of the engine.

 

Kestas,


Thank you for your reply, I will keep an eye on that timing cover seal...

I agree with you on the need to touch up and re-apply the rustproofing yearly/every 2-3 years. I originate from Northern Scandinavia where the winters are long and heavily salted...
That is why I bought my 300TE from Arizona, where it have stayed away from substances that expedites the slow burning of the German iron. Apart from that, the previous owner really took good care of the car, with many preventative age-appropriate updates, I'm quite lucky to have found such a good example.

Anyway, I will look in to Ziebarts a bit closer to see what they are using, any other tip about good rust-proofers in/around the Boston/Providence area are greatly appreciated!

BTW, hrm, Kestas, when it is time for you to trade in your MB convertible, please keep me in mind, it is such a lovely model...


Jorgen.

 

Thanks for the thumbs up! It sounds like you bought your car well.

Just to add, my recommendations come from the petroleum engineers I used to work with at Chrysler who were the most cognizant of aftermarket rustproofing methods. I picked a few brains when I used to work there. Stay away from the rustproofing (like Polyoleum) that claims to harden (or set) and stay in place. These'll do more harm than good in the long run. Rustproofing should stay "wet" or greasy and get consumed with time by evaporation or erosion.

 

Kestas,


Using a more pliant cover does make sence. In the back of my mind I recall that the stiffer variety had the extra feature of creating pockets of moist air...


Jorgen.