1991 300 e stalling when engine warm
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1991 300e
1991 300 e stalling when engine warm
So it's driven great up until recently, when it began stalling upon acceleration either out of a turn, or from a stop, after driving 10 minuites or so. At this time is chokes, sputters, and stalls when attempting to accelerate. Then may start rough and stall out once more almost immediately, or simply will not start at all. Allow an hour or so to go by, it fires up just fine, and so far....seems to not stall again for awhile.
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
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From: Northeast PA-Poconos
2014 E350, 2006 C350 Sport(made it to 280k, loved it!), 1990 300E
It might be a fuel accumulator or clogged fuel injectors. Try Techron in a few tank fulls to see if this clears it up.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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300CE 24V Sportline 1991
Allow an hour or so to go by, it fires up just fine, and so far....seems to not stall again for awhile.
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Make sure your HT is first class. All components original MB or Bosch/Beru failing that. In my experience, NOTHING ELSE.
If I were to make a guess for you, I would say rotor arm.
Other than that, HT in general.
Bonne chance.
RayH
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1991 300e
Thanks for replies. Yes i'll try some techron. And I presume I should change the cap while I change the rotor, yes?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 117
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300CE 24V Sportline 1991
Thanks for replies. Yes i'll try some techron. And I presume I should change the cap while I change the rotor, yes?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
If the cap, leads or plugs are old, good idea to change 'em.
I mean that Bosch/Beru are fine but MB is best. I have Beru leads and plugs and all seems well.
HT is high tension. High voltage - all the ignition bits from coil to plugs.
R
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,890
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From: Northeast PA-Poconos
2014 E350, 2006 C350 Sport(made it to 280k, loved it!), 1990 300E
Thanks for replies. Yes i'll try some techron. And I presume I should change the cap while I change the rotor, yes?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
And because I want to understand, why would those things fail after the car warmed up or even intermittently?
Ray, im missing your advice on parts. Do you mean that Bosch IS as acceptable as MB, or no? Also, what is HT?
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Thread Starter
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1991 300e
So I just found some time to delve into this, and thought I would at least do some basic inspection of the ignition system before wrenching, and I fired it up after things looked relatively clean. Sure enough, after 10+ minuite of idling, a "clicking" noise inside the motor began, and it started running rougher. I gave it a little gas and it sputtered then stalled. Is it a cylinder dying when it arms up, or could this be reactive to something simpler?
Junior Member
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1990 300 te
As my high school shop teacher said, compression, fuel, and ignition are the three things you need. If you can get it to fail consistantly you are way ahead. When it fails pull a plug wire and check for spark. Unless the engine has a very strange problem you are not loosing compression. Check for fuel pressure or take the air cleaner off and when it starts to run bad squirt a little starting fluid into the air intake. If it immediately starts running better you have a fuel problem. Once you determine the basic system with the problem then we can start getting serious.
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SL55 AMG
My 1989 300TE has the same problem. The stalling occurs during warmup, about the time when the engine reaches operating temperature and the system changes the mixture from rich to lean.
This is an intermittent problem but is getting progressively worse. The car will not start for about 30-60 minutes after stalling, but it runs fine after that. Sometimes I keep it from stalling by putting it in neutral when coming to a stop and keeping the RPM above 1,000. If it makes it past the transition from rich to lean, the car runs fine for the rest of the day.
I replaced the Electro Hydraulic Actuator (EHA) hoping that would fix it. The EHA controls the mixture, so I though mine malfunctioned when it got the signal to change from rich to lean. The EHA is not cheap, but I managed to find a good one at a wrecking yard for $10. It does run better now but still stalls.
This is an intermittent problem but is getting progressively worse. The car will not start for about 30-60 minutes after stalling, but it runs fine after that. Sometimes I keep it from stalling by putting it in neutral when coming to a stop and keeping the RPM above 1,000. If it makes it past the transition from rich to lean, the car runs fine for the rest of the day.
I replaced the Electro Hydraulic Actuator (EHA) hoping that would fix it. The EHA controls the mixture, so I though mine malfunctioned when it got the signal to change from rich to lean. The EHA is not cheap, but I managed to find a good one at a wrecking yard for $10. It does run better now but still stalls.
Last edited by sayporsha; Dec 30, 2015 at 03:04 PM.
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seeing this revived makes me think of problems I was having - see thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6552682
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6552682
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 41
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R350
My 1989 300TE had the same problem. I replaced the Electro Hydraulic Actuator (EHA) and that fixed it.
The stalling always occurred during warmup, when the engine reached operating temperature and the system changed the mixture from rich to lean. The EHA controls the mixture, so I'm guessing mine malfunctioned when it got the signal to change from rich to lean.
This was an intermittent problem but got progressively worse. The car would not start for an hour or so after stalling, but it ran fine after that. Several times I kept it from stalling by putting it in neutral when coming to a stop and keeping the RPM above 1,000. If I made it past the transition from rich to lean, the car ran fine for the rest of the day.
The EHA is not cheap, but I managed to find a good one at a wrecking yard for $10.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but when I searched before repairing I learned this is a common problem and a lot of threads had no resolution. I hope this helps.
The stalling always occurred during warmup, when the engine reached operating temperature and the system changed the mixture from rich to lean. The EHA controls the mixture, so I'm guessing mine malfunctioned when it got the signal to change from rich to lean.
This was an intermittent problem but got progressively worse. The car would not start for an hour or so after stalling, but it ran fine after that. Several times I kept it from stalling by putting it in neutral when coming to a stop and keeping the RPM above 1,000. If I made it past the transition from rich to lean, the car ran fine for the rest of the day.
The EHA is not cheap, but I managed to find a good one at a wrecking yard for $10.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but when I searched before repairing I learned this is a common problem and a lot of threads had no resolution. I hope this helps.
My symptoms sounds the same, cold engine fires right up, drive for 10 - 15 minutes perfectly, then all of a sudden, at red light or stop, engine starts idling really rough, seems like it's choking for air or something, and if light turns green, sometimes I step on the pedal and it feels like it will stall. So usually during this "phase", I put in N and rev it up a bit to keep the engine from stalling or choking.
Strange thing is, after about 10 - 15 minutes of this, it runs perfectly fine, and fine for the remainder of the day.
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1989 Mb 300se
300se
Hi.
My 300se doing the exact same thing. Any luck with your problem?
Almost seems to cough, splutter and stall at about 10 minutes when engine just about warms up.
Give it about an hour to rest, it starts up and goes as if nothing was wrong.
Help....
My 300se doing the exact same thing. Any luck with your problem?
Almost seems to cough, splutter and stall at about 10 minutes when engine just about warms up.
Give it about an hour to rest, it starts up and goes as if nothing was wrong.
Help....
So it's driven great up until recently, when it began stalling upon acceleration either out of a turn, or from a stop, after driving 10 minuites or so. At this time is chokes, sputters, and stalls when attempting to accelerate. Then may start rough and stall out once more almost immediately, or simply will not start at all. Allow an hour or so to go by, it fires up just fine, and so far....seems to not stall again for awhile.
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 49
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From: Temecula Ca.
124 92 126 90 R129 91
On my 1990 300SE after replacing a few parts, it turned out to be EHA valve, expensive but the car ran like new, never stalled again, inspect bottom of valve with a small mirror and flashlight, if you see remnants of fuel ,its leaking when you drive.
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300 CE
So it's driven great up until recently, when it began stalling upon acceleration either out of a turn, or from a stop, after driving 10 minuites or so. At this time is chokes, sputters, and stalls when attempting to accelerate. Then may start rough and stall out once more almost immediately, or simply will not start at all. Allow an hour or so to go by, it fires up just fine, and so far....seems to not stall again for awhile.
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
Where does my diagnosis start? I'm new to MB (and all these relays and sensors I keep reading about), but it seems like a fuel delivery issue. Pump, relay, filter, ovp? Please help me figure this one out as i'm especially hurting these days! Thanks
