AT fluid/filter change
AT fluid/filter change
Has anyone here renewed the auto trans. fluid and filter on their own? The service and owner's manuals say use 6 liters of fluid for an oil change, and 7.1 full capacity. Since I'll be changing the filter, should I fill up with 7.1 liters?
Also, does anyone have tips to help prevent the fluid from churning or foaming? The serv. man. says this can happen with low fluid levels, allowing air to be sucked in.
Also, does anyone have tips to help prevent the fluid from churning or foaming? The serv. man. says this can happen with low fluid levels, allowing air to be sucked in.
I did mine (722.369) recently. You should drain the torque converter at the same time. This will constitute an approximately 80% change-out of the fluid. The best way to determine the refill amount, is to capture and measure the fluid taken out. About 7 quarts came out during my change-out.
To refill (after dealing with the pan filter and gasket), the manual says to pour in four quarts (or liters...close enough for this exercise), start the car, then add the remaining charge.
Don't overfill - it's not good for the transmission. I prefer to leave it a quart shy, drive the car around to warm up the fluid, then look at the trans dipstick, topping up about a half-quart at a time until full.
Make sure to use new washers on the drain plugs.
I'm not sure what your manual was referring to. I would expect problems to happen only when fluid level is significantly low (over two or three quarts low).
To refill (after dealing with the pan filter and gasket), the manual says to pour in four quarts (or liters...close enough for this exercise), start the car, then add the remaining charge.
Don't overfill - it's not good for the transmission. I prefer to leave it a quart shy, drive the car around to warm up the fluid, then look at the trans dipstick, topping up about a half-quart at a time until full.
Make sure to use new washers on the drain plugs.
I'm not sure what your manual was referring to. I would expect problems to happen only when fluid level is significantly low (over two or three quarts low).
Good day
Excellent advice by Kestas.
My advice. Use Mobil 1 Synthetic Automatic Transmission and change it every 30,000 miles. They come 6 qts to a box. I have 316,000 miles on my 1984 300D and 168,000 on my 1993 300D and have never had any trouble using this fluid. Been using it since 1989 .
A short story. My 1984 T Bird had 125,000 miles when the oil pump wore out, in 1991. So I rebuilt the whole car. The Transmission repair person at Wallace Ford rebuilt Ford AOD's on the side for extra money. He called me after he opened it up and asked me why I brought him a pretty new transmission to rebuild. I told him it had 125,000 miles. He bought 4 cases of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF the next day and charged me less than $250 to rebuild it. I sold the car in 1998 with 275,000 miles to a mechanic's son in my neighborhood. He has done more work on the engine but he says the transmission still shifts perfectly.
My two cents.
T
Excellent advice by Kestas.
My advice. Use Mobil 1 Synthetic Automatic Transmission and change it every 30,000 miles. They come 6 qts to a box. I have 316,000 miles on my 1984 300D and 168,000 on my 1993 300D and have never had any trouble using this fluid. Been using it since 1989 .
A short story. My 1984 T Bird had 125,000 miles when the oil pump wore out, in 1991. So I rebuilt the whole car. The Transmission repair person at Wallace Ford rebuilt Ford AOD's on the side for extra money. He called me after he opened it up and asked me why I brought him a pretty new transmission to rebuild. I told him it had 125,000 miles. He bought 4 cases of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF the next day and charged me less than $250 to rebuild it. I sold the car in 1998 with 275,000 miles to a mechanic's son in my neighborhood. He has done more work on the engine but he says the transmission still shifts perfectly.
My two cents.
T
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I agree with the 30,000 mile schedule.
You've probably already noticed the access hole at the bottom rear of the torque converter housing. Get yourself a breaker bar, a 27mm socket (or whatever size fits your crank dampner), and a mirror. Position the mirror so you can see the access hole while turning the engine with the breaker bar. Turn the engine clockwise until the torque converter drain plug is at the bottom. Then your good to drain the converter.
I'm not a big fan of synthetics, but I've been hearing lots of testimonial on the good results with synthetic trans fluid. I just may reconsider and start using it on my vehicles.
You've probably already noticed the access hole at the bottom rear of the torque converter housing. Get yourself a breaker bar, a 27mm socket (or whatever size fits your crank dampner), and a mirror. Position the mirror so you can see the access hole while turning the engine with the breaker bar. Turn the engine clockwise until the torque converter drain plug is at the bottom. Then your good to drain the converter.
I'm not a big fan of synthetics, but I've been hearing lots of testimonial on the good results with synthetic trans fluid. I just may reconsider and start using it on my vehicles.



