Stalling 300e
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
1990 300e
Stalling 300e
Hey Everyone, my first post here.
1990 300e
This car runs beautifully, starts up cold no problem and has no idle issues.
BUT
I have a bad stalling problem that now occurs at anytime the throttle is pressed, OR the transmission in shifted into 2 or 3rd gear (automatic) . It will drive perfectly fine down the road , accelerate and shift and cruise at a very slight throttle pressure, but as soon as you ask for more it 'cut's out' basically.
Been through almost everything,
New fuel pumps x2
fuel tank screen removed and cleaned
fuel filter
spark plugs
Wires check out,
injectors removed and cleaned
a/f adjusted to 50%
Distributor rotor is Mercedes/bosch part. Beru cap Replaced rotor bracket.
Have spare EZL and MAS and ECU with no differences noted with any parts
Any suggestions? Something that has to do with the transmission being in a certain gear? thats the part I don't understand. ugh.
1990 300e
This car runs beautifully, starts up cold no problem and has no idle issues.
BUT
I have a bad stalling problem that now occurs at anytime the throttle is pressed, OR the transmission in shifted into 2 or 3rd gear (automatic) . It will drive perfectly fine down the road , accelerate and shift and cruise at a very slight throttle pressure, but as soon as you ask for more it 'cut's out' basically.
Been through almost everything,
New fuel pumps x2
fuel tank screen removed and cleaned
fuel filter
spark plugs
Wires check out,
injectors removed and cleaned
a/f adjusted to 50%
Distributor rotor is Mercedes/bosch part. Beru cap Replaced rotor bracket.
Have spare EZL and MAS and ECU with no differences noted with any parts
Any suggestions? Something that has to do with the transmission being in a certain gear? thats the part I don't understand. ugh.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
1990 300e
I;ve got a new OVP in there now and no change. I have a fuel pressure gauge attached as well and am noticing the pressure dropping when the stalling occurs , it goes from a steady 70 psi and then fluctuates between 50-60 and then as soon as you ask for more throttle it stalls.
I've retested the accumulator and it is operational, no dripping out of the line when engine running. it feels like something gets blocked inside the fuel filter and stops flow.
I've retested the accumulator and it is operational, no dripping out of the line when engine running. it feels like something gets blocked inside the fuel filter and stops flow.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
I think you need to look at the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacumm pipe off .Do you see any pettrol? from the pipe . if you do the diaphram is split.And needs replacing .
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
1990 300e
yes 2 pumps. both are new, and I have a new spare as well. The top one seemed to be making more noise than usual so I swapped it thinking maybe it was no good out of the box but still the problem persists. 1 Pump gets louder after a few minutes of running.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
Fuel pressure regulator is in the engine depot .The acumulator is next to the fuel filter. Next thing i would try is the fuel pressure relay. Thats by the ovp these can be a problem .And would your engine have a potentiometer on the side of the throttle body ? Its a black box with a coill inside and the carbon wears off in time as it is moved along the contacts by the linkage for engine speed.It as 2 screws holding it to the throttle body.What is your engine is it a m104.?
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
.As you put your foot on the gas it operates the butterfly in the throttle body electronicaly .If this part is not working right it will give these symptoms. A stall or flat spot. You need some one inside on the gas pedal ,then you look at this part and view if the butterfly opens , but should not shut in any possition when you they have thier foot on the gas pedal,,, unles they take thier foot off the gas ...Make sure it in park hand brake on fully, dont stand in front but to the side of the car. Keep safety in mind allways i will get a picture to show you ..
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
The first one is M103 2 black boxes side by side.
The second one is M104 Its the top half of the throttle air meter
The M103 is an easy fix if thats the problem see pic for m103
But the M104 is expensive to replace and needs to be sent away to be serviced . You need to get the readings to test the m104 out .I can see the fault with the M103 after its been removed. Just remove screws.to inspect it .See picture for wear on the carbon track.
The second one is M104 Its the top half of the throttle air meter
The M103 is an easy fix if thats the problem see pic for m103
But the M104 is expensive to replace and needs to be sent away to be serviced . You need to get the readings to test the m104 out .I can see the fault with the M103 after its been removed. Just remove screws.to inspect it .See picture for wear on the carbon track.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
Can you say what engine you have so i need to focus on one instead of both M103 , and the m104.. Thanks . Now going back to what i said, and as the contacts travels over the carbon track it comes to a part thats worn out ,this is were you loose throttle response.and flat spot, or stall will happen. By the way you fuel pressure is fine anything over 40 psi is fine but if its 35psi its faulty
Last edited by optimusprime m1; Mar 17, 2016 at 04:34 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 920
Likes: 46
From: Worcestershire UK
W124 260E
Royzell Your not ignorant , its just a lack of information . The OVP is at the rear of the battery ,you need to pull out the plastic cover to get to it ..On top it will have 1 or 2 fuses ,check them .But i dont think it is the problem but worth looking at to eliminate it .But it may be bad fuse in the fuse box or vacuum leaks .It could be a host of things you need to go through them all . But Blizar as another problem .
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Joined: Sep 2015
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Blizare, did you ever get the problem solved?
I describe my e420 the stalling problem as, when trying to accelerate, serious hesitation, sputtering, followed by missing. As best we've been able to determine, there has been evidence of arc-ing inside the dist. caps. Initially thought it was caused by condensation, but after replacing caps with Beru caps, it appears the condensation is more like an oil based film.
I describe my e420 the stalling problem as, when trying to accelerate, serious hesitation, sputtering, followed by missing. As best we've been able to determine, there has been evidence of arc-ing inside the dist. caps. Initially thought it was caused by condensation, but after replacing caps with Beru caps, it appears the condensation is more like an oil based film.
