m104.980 no start, has spark
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c124 124.051
m104.980 no start, has spark
Hi everyone
So after becoming difficult to start when warm the car will not start at all now.
It has a spark ans feels and sounds close to starting but does not.
There is a bit of dark smoke from the exhaust and a strong smell of fuel.
The plugs were a bit sooty when removed, I just cleaned and refitted as they were less than a year old
The cap and leads are of the same age as well.
I have replaced the crank and cam sensor but still have a code for the crank sensor,
I have read that with a no start situation you will get this code anyway, can anyone confirm this?
Just the fact the car is firing will suggest the cps is ok, correct?
I also have 4,5,6, blinks on pin 14,
4- output oxygen sensor heater control defective
5- output for air inj pump control defective
6- output for kickdown switch defective
Does anyone have any ideas where to go from here?
thanks Matt
So after becoming difficult to start when warm the car will not start at all now.
It has a spark ans feels and sounds close to starting but does not.
There is a bit of dark smoke from the exhaust and a strong smell of fuel.
The plugs were a bit sooty when removed, I just cleaned and refitted as they were less than a year old
The cap and leads are of the same age as well.
I have replaced the crank and cam sensor but still have a code for the crank sensor,
I have read that with a no start situation you will get this code anyway, can anyone confirm this?
Just the fact the car is firing will suggest the cps is ok, correct?
I also have 4,5,6, blinks on pin 14,
4- output oxygen sensor heater control defective
5- output for air inj pump control defective
6- output for kickdown switch defective
Does anyone have any ideas where to go from here?
thanks Matt
Last edited by matt72; 12-01-2019 at 08:34 AM.
#2
Junior Member
Check your EA (throttle body)
Can you hear the EA "buzzing" when the key is in "run"(2). With the air intake off - push the butterfly of the throttle open (key off), then turn the key to run and check that it is MUCH harder to manually push open. There's a lot of things that might throw those codes - including the MAF and even the OVP, but check the EA before throwing parts at the car.
#5
Junior Member
Bad wiring harness or EA
I'd say wiring harness - but it's unlikely that you'd still have an original harness in 2019. The EA/ETA/ISC (you'll see all three of those used - referencing the same part, which is a hybrid drive by wire/mechanical throttle bod. Anyway - it has a plug on it, and about 18" of wiring. Make a small slit in the sleeve. If it looks like copper taking a nap in a cottonfield - that's your problem. It's fixable - but don't do that. Buy an EA made after 94.
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c124 124.051
ok so today I inspected the wiring and restested for faults and the codes for pin 14 has cleared and i have codes on pin 3 now.
7 blinks- rpm signal at cfi illogical
27 blinks- no data between cfi and ezl
The knock sensor that plugs into the ezl lookd very crusty and the insulation is coming off the wires.
Will this give me a non start situation?
thanks again
7 blinks- rpm signal at cfi illogical
27 blinks- no data between cfi and ezl
The knock sensor that plugs into the ezl lookd very crusty and the insulation is coming off the wires.
Will this give me a non start situation?
thanks again