88 260E Cruise, how do I check Hall-effect sensor
09-12-2004, 07:56 PM
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88 260E Cruise, how do I check Hall-effect sensor
I am trying to determing if I need to change my Cruise control amplifier or the Hall effect sensor. Most of time cruise does not work. Ocassionally it works fine. If it works its on a day when the interior got hot. When it cools down it quits.
09-13-2004, 08:54 AM
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1994 E320
Usually the Hall sender only fails when the solder joint breaks. This can happen when removing the plug connection when removing the instrument cluster. If you ever removed the cluster, pull it out again and check the solder. If it is good, I'd go for the amplifier. The "works when hot" situation might be cold solder on the PCB. You can get a rebuilt unit for much less than new.
09-28-2004, 03:10 PM
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Mercedes 300TD
Hi,
This might be of help to you, and indeed anyone with cruise control problems.
I had problems with my cruise control (300 Diesel 1992). It started going intermittent, then packed up completely. Finally decided it was the amplifier. It seems these amps last for 10 years then start to go wrong. Following advice from this forum and elsewhere, resoldered various joints (more or less at random) and it would then work for a few days, before going intermittent then stop altogether. Got to the silly stage of leaving the trim removed and whipping out the amplifier for a quick solder-up if I was going on a journey where I'd want cruise control.
Got fed up with this and decided to go for broke. The amplifier is covered in a comformal coating: I suspect moisture or dirt had crept in underneath this (even though it looked fine). I stripped this varnish off with paint stripper (it doesn't touch the solder resist on the circuit board), rinsed it off with water. resoldered every joint (took half an hour), cleaned off the flux. Looked really shiny and new..just had to work! I didn't bother to recoat it, in case I now had a pile of wrecked circuitry.
Amazingly I've now been running for 2 months no problems (touch wood).
This might be of help to you, and indeed anyone with cruise control problems.
I had problems with my cruise control (300 Diesel 1992). It started going intermittent, then packed up completely. Finally decided it was the amplifier. It seems these amps last for 10 years then start to go wrong. Following advice from this forum and elsewhere, resoldered various joints (more or less at random) and it would then work for a few days, before going intermittent then stop altogether. Got to the silly stage of leaving the trim removed and whipping out the amplifier for a quick solder-up if I was going on a journey where I'd want cruise control.
Got fed up with this and decided to go for broke. The amplifier is covered in a comformal coating: I suspect moisture or dirt had crept in underneath this (even though it looked fine). I stripped this varnish off with paint stripper (it doesn't touch the solder resist on the circuit board), rinsed it off with water. resoldered every joint (took half an hour), cleaned off the flux. Looked really shiny and new..just had to work! I didn't bother to recoat it, in case I now had a pile of wrecked circuitry.
Amazingly I've now been running for 2 months no problems (touch wood).
