When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Due to hesitation issues when accelerating from idle — but recovering above 2000 rpm — I measured the fuel pressure with a gauge. As a rookie mistake, I removed the injector fitting that goes to the WUR to install the manometer, and later realized it had two small metal ***** inside.
Does anyone know exactly how to reinstall them correctly?
I placed them again between the line going to the WUR and the narrower-threaded port, but now the car won't start.
The OVP fuse is OK, the sensor plate is at 29.7 mm before becoming firm, the EHA is in the same condition as before, the lambda sensor is working near the 9 volts in ralenti.
The last time it started (without the metal *****), the fuel pressure was 5.6 bar for both system and control — meaning no differential pressure.
I'm not sure if I reinstalled the ***** incorrectly, and that might be the reason the engine won’t start, and the reason i had no differential pressure.
Help!
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I think you meant CSV (cold start valve) not WUR (warm up regulator). A 1990 will not have WUR.
In all these years I do not recall taking off the cold start valve connector in my cars. I always use that correct fitting below it.
I have not idea what a steel ball would be doing in that fitting as it is just the system pressure tied to the CSV.
I doubt it has anything to do with your issue but again I have never seen it.
Have you tried starting the car without the pressure tester?
I suspect you may have the pressure tester connected backwards where the control pressure is bleeding back the system (or vice versa)
Sorry, you are correct, I meant CSV.
Today I removed it, cleaned it, tested the selenoid and spray pattern, seems to be working fine.
Managed to start the car regulating the CO2 allen.
Checked the injection module for weld cracks, I found one, but not sure if it was that bad. But still stumbling and with hesitation when pressing the gas pedal. Metal ***** seems to be some improvisation of previous owners, still can't understand what for.
Tomorrow I am going to check duty cycle and TPS sensor ( or equivalent in this car).
Ordered new injectors just in case. Spark plugs look fine and gap is within specs.
Starting to believe I will be entering a rabbit hole
OP set the pair of ***** aside and start with basics. K-Ket in all forms must have ZERO false air leaks to operate properly.
Before dropping too deep in a rabbit hole get your hands on a smoke tester and find the false air leaks. Fix them; and fix them right. No baling wire and bubble gum.
Verify you are getting correct signals to the guy that changes control pressure. Fuel system relays die.
Know what you are looking at and how it works before tearing into things. Will save you many headaches.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
