Okay, the brake job...
06-29-2005, 10:28 AM
#26
Almost a Member!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'96 E320
Originally Posted by f-rod
Just one question.
What is the difference between the MB brake paste and any other brand?
What is the difference between the MB brake paste and any other brand?
Actually don't know for sure, but this is one area that for a few cents more, it felt good to buy the OEM.
06-29-2005, 01:16 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: By the City by the Bay, CA
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
The MB paste is designed to go on the backing plate of the pads. I've never actually seen another brand of paste for this purpose. There are lots of anti-squeal coatings out there but it was like $9 on line for four packs of the paste and I figured -- like TopJimmy -- may as well go with the MB stuff. Haven't had a squeak, so they know what they're doing. 
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
06-29-2005, 02:55 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'02 E430 SE, '02 Avalanche Z66, '06 R-350
brakewarehouse did not have the mb paste. I'm going to try another brand that I can get a the local auto center, can't remember the brand but my son used it on his wife's van and it worked. Worst case, I'll take the pads out and re-apply the mb paste later if I run into trouble. If not, I'll post back the results.
thanks.
thanks.
06-29-2005, 03:07 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: By the City by the Bay, CA
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Never dealt with brakewarehouse, can't comment on their stock. I get my online OEM stuff from:
www.autohausaz.com
www.autopartswarehouse.com
http://parts.mbz.org
I prefer them in that order...
I would suggest you use something even if it's the conventional stuff you can get at AutoZone/Pep Boys/Kragen-Checker, from what I've heard these are pretty prone to squeals.
www.autohausaz.com
www.autopartswarehouse.com
http://parts.mbz.org
I prefer them in that order...
I would suggest you use something even if it's the conventional stuff you can get at AutoZone/Pep Boys/Kragen-Checker, from what I've heard these are pretty prone to squeals.
06-30-2005, 11:26 AM
#30
Almost a Member!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'96 E320
One more word about the "paste".
There are several makers of the stuff. Most common is from local parts houses, like Auto Zone, for example. I bought new pads for my wife's van and a couple of packs of their brand for $1 ea. No problems. Who knows if it is the same compound. Pretty sure the MB version was under $5 for 4 packs.
Just remember to put the paste on and let dry to a "tacky" feel before slipping calipers back on. Otherwise it just squeezes out and is much less effective.
(OK it was two more words about paste).
There are several makers of the stuff. Most common is from local parts houses, like Auto Zone, for example. I bought new pads for my wife's van and a couple of packs of their brand for $1 ea. No problems. Who knows if it is the same compound. Pretty sure the MB version was under $5 for 4 packs.
Just remember to put the paste on and let dry to a "tacky" feel before slipping calipers back on. Otherwise it just squeezes out and is much less effective.
(OK it was two more words about paste).
07-15-2005, 08:07 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: By the City by the Bay, CA
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Wow! Felix Rodriguez on our forum!
Okay, you're probably just another f-rod.
Thanks for the feedback, though: Now we know another paste that works well.
Just curious, saw your profile that you have an Avalanche (and the sweet Z version as well). Are you up on Chevy Truck World?
Have a great weekend,
Greg
Thanks for the feedback, though: Now we know another paste that works well.
Just curious, saw your profile that you have an Avalanche (and the sweet Z version as well). Are you up on Chevy Truck World?
Have a great weekend,
Greg
07-18-2005, 04:46 PM
#33
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'02 E430 SE, '02 Avalanche Z66, '06 R-350
Originally Posted by Gregs210
Just curious, saw your profile that you have an Avalanche (and the sweet Z version as well). Are you up on Chevy Truck World?
Have a great weekend,
Greg
Have a great weekend,
Greg
10-06-2005, 07:52 PM
#34
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this thread is already 3 months old, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents for those searching the archives for the brake job.
I'm a weekend warrior with NO experience working on cars whatsoever. I started by replacing my blower motor regulator, and no sooner than I had accomplished that, then the brake liner wear warning lamp had illuminated. Emboldened by my early success, I decided to tackle the brake job myself based on this post and this site:
http://www.chickparts.com/brake_pads.htm
Everything pretty much went smoothly, except for one big obstacle - getting the damn rotor off!!! I hammered, oiled, hammered, and oiled. Nothing!! So, I reassembled everything, put the wheel back on and then I got smart. I drove down, bought a little $10 2-ton hydraulic jack from Autozone. I braced that puppy against the inside of the wheel well and pumped it slowly, while oiling it. Popped off with a fight, but one that I was going to win. Yes, my rotors were rusted on, or "frozen." So, my only advice? Get a little hydrolic jack, wedge it between the rotor and the inside of the wheel well, and jack it right off! For lack of a better word...
Cheers
I'm a weekend warrior with NO experience working on cars whatsoever. I started by replacing my blower motor regulator, and no sooner than I had accomplished that, then the brake liner wear warning lamp had illuminated. Emboldened by my early success, I decided to tackle the brake job myself based on this post and this site:
http://www.chickparts.com/brake_pads.htm
Everything pretty much went smoothly, except for one big obstacle - getting the damn rotor off!!! I hammered, oiled, hammered, and oiled. Nothing!! So, I reassembled everything, put the wheel back on and then I got smart. I drove down, bought a little $10 2-ton hydraulic jack from Autozone. I braced that puppy against the inside of the wheel well and pumped it slowly, while oiling it. Popped off with a fight, but one that I was going to win. Yes, my rotors were rusted on, or "frozen." So, my only advice? Get a little hydrolic jack, wedge it between the rotor and the inside of the wheel well, and jack it right off! For lack of a better word...
Cheers
10-28-2005, 01:25 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
2007 S-550, 2001 E-430 & 1997 E-420
Brake Dust
Hi, I did brake work on 1997 E-420 in June, 2005. I used the Textar [Yellow Box]. I still get some brake dust. I clean my rims every 2-3 weeks intervale.
I am getting ready to do front brake on my 2001 E-430, Which brake pads are good that don't produce too much dust?
I have read on some post that Axxis Delux Plus are the best for low or none brake dust.
Is Axxis Delux Plus brake pads come with slot to mount brake sensor?
I also notice that price for Axxis Delux Plus pads are much lower then any other pads for W210, Is any one know why?
Is Axxis Delux Plus brake pads are good quality? Is any one have specification of material that used on Axxis brake pads?
I am getting ready to do front brake on my 2001 E-430, Which brake pads are good that don't produce too much dust?
I have read on some post that Axxis Delux Plus are the best for low or none brake dust.
Is Axxis Delux Plus brake pads come with slot to mount brake sensor?
I also notice that price for Axxis Delux Plus pads are much lower then any other pads for W210, Is any one know why?
Is Axxis Delux Plus brake pads are good quality? Is any one have specification of material that used on Axxis brake pads?
08-08-2006, 02:23 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks!
Just wanted to thank you for the DIY on the brakes. Took about 2.5 hours to do front and rear on my '00 W208 last night. Went off without a hitch. Now if I had only remembered to pick up some DOT4 brake fluid on the way home since I only have DOT3 in the garage.....
08-08-2006, 03:37 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
98 E320
This is a great post and made the brake job really easy. I too replaced all rotors with drilled Brembo's; and went with Axxis/PBR pads all the way around.
HOWEVER, several months later I couldn't get rid of the brake squeal coming from the rear brakes. Just recently I changed the rear Axxis/PBR pads back to the OEM semi-metallic and everything is quiet now. The front Axxis pads are fine - no dust and no noise.
Thanks again Greg
HOWEVER, several months later I couldn't get rid of the brake squeal coming from the rear brakes. Just recently I changed the rear Axxis/PBR pads back to the OEM semi-metallic and everything is quiet now. The front Axxis pads are fine - no dust and no noise.
Thanks again Greg
08-12-2006, 05:24 PM
#39
MBWorld Fanatic!
Great Post
I replaced my rotors with Brembos all around,no slots or drilled ones.Replaced my Porterfields(didnt have to) with new ones,braided lines,new fluid,and painted the calipers yellow.I would like to thank you for the detailed post,it made the job easy.
08-15-2006, 06:19 PM
#40
Senior Member
To remove the front rotors I used PB Blaster penetrating oil and then a small 5lbs sledge hammer. I had to really wack the area near the lug holes. After a few good hits, rotor came off easily.
Originally Posted by Gregs210
For the vast majority of benzes, once you've removed the allen-head lock screw and the caliper (and caliper mounting bracket on the front), the rotors should drift right off with little resistance. If they are frozen due to rust -- as mine were -- you have a new project on your hands. As noted in the thread, if you've never removed frozen rotors before, you really need to have someone with you to walk you through it. (It's no different than removing frozen rotors on any other vehicle, but again, you have to know how to do it.)
The problem is that if it is not done properly, common outcomes are damage to something else -- or worse, yourself. Therefore, I hope you can appreciate my reluctance to try and explain it on a forum thread.
I think probably the most common issue is that they'll just be stuck -- not frozen -- so spraying something along the lines of WD-40 around the hub/rotor edge and wiggling the rotor back and forth will usually meet with success. If they're rusted on, you do have to pry and pound -- but the key is knowing where and how much to pry and to pound. As noted in the thread it's also time-consuming; you have to be very patient. And the worst cases will actually require the heating process, which itself is a whole other level of complication and thus is not to be undertaken lightly. That's why you need someone with that experience to literally show you how to do it and then give you some feedback as you undertake it yourself.
In all honesty the best advice I can give you is to try to remove them, and if they're frozen, then either find someone who can share their time and talent with you or take it in.
It's
, but where -- approximately -- is your ocean view?
Good luck and enjoy the ride,
Greg
The problem is that if it is not done properly, common outcomes are damage to something else -- or worse, yourself. Therefore, I hope you can appreciate my reluctance to try and explain it on a forum thread.
I think probably the most common issue is that they'll just be stuck -- not frozen -- so spraying something along the lines of WD-40 around the hub/rotor edge and wiggling the rotor back and forth will usually meet with success. If they're rusted on, you do have to pry and pound -- but the key is knowing where and how much to pry and to pound. As noted in the thread it's also time-consuming; you have to be very patient. And the worst cases will actually require the heating process, which itself is a whole other level of complication and thus is not to be undertaken lightly. That's why you need someone with that experience to literally show you how to do it and then give you some feedback as you undertake it yourself.
In all honesty the best advice I can give you is to try to remove them, and if they're frozen, then either find someone who can share their time and talent with you or take it in.
It's
, but where -- approximately -- is your ocean view?Good luck and enjoy the ride,
Greg
08-20-2006, 03:58 AM
#41
Almost a Member!
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Guys,
Can anyone guide me to where i can find Brembos for 250? I've been looking on ebay and cant find any other seller but from kentucky who wants around 250 for one pr.
Much appreciate it.
Oh and great DIY guide, I am getting brave to do this myself. Will let you know how it goes but do need the rotors first
Thanks,
Sunny
Can anyone guide me to where i can find Brembos for 250? I've been looking on ebay and cant find any other seller but from kentucky who wants around 250 for one pr.
Much appreciate it.
Oh and great DIY guide, I am getting brave to do this myself. Will let you know how it goes but do need the rotors first
Thanks,
Sunny
10-06-2006, 06:22 PM
#43
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Merc
Very helpful write up. Should have included details pointing out the rear brake caliper especially where the retianing pin is located- I guess I will figure it out when I get down to it
Thanks
01-31-2007, 02:00 AM
#45
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear Brake Pad Replacement
V. good post. I have already surveyed my rear calipers and have noticed that the 2 pad retaining pins are badly rusted (note my 96 c220 has the dual retaining pins per pad). I am afraid if I were to drive them out of the caliper, they'd be toast. Where can I get replacement retaining pins? Stealership? Or Midas? Or Autozone/PepBoys/O'Reillys? Does any body know the part number for these pins? (Online stores typically do not list these items). I'll post some pics once I get all of my parts (pads & rotors). Let me know about the pins however.
I'll post some pics once I get all of my parts (pads & rotors). Let me know about the pins however.
02-21-2007, 10:02 PM
#46
Super Member
V. good post. I have already surveyed my rear calipers and have noticed that the 2 pad retaining pins are badly rusted (note my 96 c220 has the dual retaining pins per pad). I am afraid if I were to drive them out of the caliper, they'd be toast. Where can I get replacement retaining pins? Stealership? Or Midas? Or Autozone/PepBoys/O'Reillys? Does any body know the part number for these pins? (Online stores typically do not list these items). I'll post some pics once I get all of my parts (pads & rotors). Let me know about the pins however.
I'll post some pics once I get all of my parts (pads & rotors). Let me know about the pins however.
06-06-2007, 04:07 PM
#47
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So the torx size is T45? I have a 97 E420. I would prefer to buy just that one torx bit that I need as opposed to a whole complete set.
I can flush the brake fluids with any DOT4 brake fluid right? MB stuff are usually expensive and are probably relabeled brands from other manufacturers. I used Valvoline and Castrol DOT4 on my other cars before with good results, so I was wondering if I can use them on my E420. Thanks much guys.
I can flush the brake fluids with any DOT4 brake fluid right? MB stuff are usually expensive and are probably relabeled brands from other manufacturers. I used Valvoline and Castrol DOT4 on my other cars before with good results, so I was wondering if I can use them on my E420. Thanks much guys.
06-16-2007, 03:15 PM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1991 190E:1998 E320 4Matic wagon : 2000 E320 4Matic
Frozen rotors
Lots of good info regarding brakes. I have had experience with rotors that were very difficult to get off and have had success using a propane torch to heat the rotor and then one swift bang from a rubber mallet has worked for me. Good luck and don''t burn yourself.
06-18-2007, 11:46 AM
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E320 Wagon, '03 BMW 5 Wagon
Rear Rotors and Emergency Brake Considerations
When I did the rear rotors on my Saab and there was a miniature pair of shoes that ran inside the rotors to act as the emergency brake system. That made it really hard to get the rotor off without working a ratchet cable tensioner to move the shoes back from the inside of the rotor. They were also made by ATE who I think makes the rear brake calipers on the MB.
Do the E320's have that same setup? I noticed that somone said to make sure the e-brake was off. Any considerations to release the e-brake cable before removing the rotor ?
Thanks !
Do the E320's have that same setup? I noticed that somone said to make sure the e-brake was off. Any considerations to release the e-brake cable before removing the rotor ?
Thanks !
07-01-2007, 02:52 AM
#50
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 CLK 430
i recently changed the brakes and rotors on my 208 to oem parts. i am getting a ridiculously annoying squeek from the front brakes, nothing from the back, i just took the front pads off cleaned everything and sprayed the blue squeek stop **** from autozone-it was good for a day then started to squeek again, anybody know what the deal is???? id GREATLY appreciaite it. i got all brand new parts and they are embarrising.
