E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Easy front spring removal

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Old May 8, 2005 | 10:57 AM
  #1  
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2000 E430, 2001 Harley Fatboy
Easy front spring removal

I found a universal internal spring compressor at my local auto parts store (it is a well stocked store) I used it on my 210 front springs and it was fast and easy. The tool is a KD and it was about $98.00 I am sure you could find it cheaper online. You have to be patient when putting in the clamps as it takes a little maneuvering. I also cut 1/4 off the end of each hook to make it easier. Her are some pics of the compressed spring as well as the #5 pad I replaced with the #1. I wanted to keep the ride, but have it a little lower. I got about 5/8 of an inch, but might remove 1/2 a coil to gain a little more. This small amount will not affect the ride, and will put me a little closer to where I want to be. My rear pads are #4 and I will change to #1 (rear will be even faster) Here are some pics...
Attached Thumbnails Easy front spring removal-p1010256.jpg   Easy front spring removal-p1010257.jpg  
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Old May 8, 2005 | 01:39 PM
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How much were your springs? I think I need to change mind because my car sits really low. I mean it looks really good but it scraps on the front left when I hit big bumps. Can you see what I mean?

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Old May 8, 2005 | 01:45 PM
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Those are the original springs, all I did was change from #5 pads to #1 pads.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JimE430
I found a universal internal spring compressor at my local auto parts store (it is a well stocked store) I used it on my 210 front springs and it was fast and easy. The tool is a KD and it was about $98.00 I am sure you could find it cheaper online. You have to be patient when putting in the clamps as it takes a little maneuvering. I also cut 1/4 off the end of each hook to make it easier. Her are some pics of the compressed spring as well as the #5 pad I replaced with the #1. I wanted to keep the ride, but have it a little lower. I got about 5/8 of an inch, but might remove 1/2 a coil to gain a little more. This small amount will not affect the ride, and will put me a little closer to where I want to be. My rear pads are #4 and I will change to #1 (rear will be even faster) Here are some pics...
Hello Jim, Thats a good tip. I rented a similiar tool and I could not get the clamps in between the coils. The 1/4" chop off of each end is a good tip. As I recall, the clamps did hang on the ends. When you compressed the spring, did you do it by hand or did you use an impact gun?

Thanks,

-rob lee
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Old May 8, 2005 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HTBenz
How much were your springs? I think I need to change mind because my car sits really low. I mean it looks really good but it scraps on the front left when I hit big bumps. Can you see what I mean?

Hello, From your picture, the reflection of the top of your tire vs. the top of the front fender opening seem to indicated that you may have have enough offset with the wheels. Meaning, they look like they protrude out slightly. If you are experiencing slight rubbing, you may want to try new front shocks like "foreyes", another forum member.
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Old May 8, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_fed
When you compressed the spring, did you do it by hand or did you use an impact gun?

Thanks,

-rob lee
What is the part number for that spring compressor?

Also is there a listing anywhere of the OEM part number for the specific # pad? Like a #1 pad has 210 ??? ?? for a part number...
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Old May 8, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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From: San Jose, Ca.
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I did them by hand because I was unsure what to expect so I erred on the side of caution.
The part # for the #1 pads are as follows.
Front-210-312-01-84
Rear- 210-325-01-84
Rear pictured.
Attached Thumbnails Easy front spring removal-p1010264.jpg  
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Old May 9, 2005 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_fed
Hello, From your picture, the reflection of the top of your tire vs. the top of the front fender opening seem to indicated that you may have have enough offset with the wheels. Meaning, they look like they protrude out slightly. If you are experiencing slight rubbing, you may want to try new front shocks like "foreyes", another forum member.

Thanks and you have a good eye because on the front I have a spacer because the rims are FWD. I am planning to replace them this summer with some others I found that do not require a spacer in front.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 12:54 PM
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Thumbs up Great Post, Jim!

Thanks for the pointers and the pics; I'm getting ready to swap mine and was wondering how ugly it was going to be. There used to be compressors that were a paired set and you hooked them from outside, but I've not seen them for a long time and I wasn't sure how in the world to get the internal type in with MBZ's covered design.

Take care and enjoy the lowered ride,
Greg

Last edited by Gregs210; May 9, 2005 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old May 9, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by HTBenz
Thanks and you have a good eye because on the front I have a spacer because the rims are FWD. I am planning to replace them this summer with some others I found that do not require a spacer in front.
If you didn't go with different wheels, possibly you could go with a thinner spacer. Don't worry about the lug bolts being too long if you go with a thinner one's in front, you have lots of room behind the front rotors. Note, the rear is a different story, don't go too long there because you will have parking brake interference.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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When compressing the spring, did you tighten the compressor by hand or use an impact wrench?
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Old May 9, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_fed
When compressing the spring, did you tighten the compressor by hand or use an impact wrench?
He stated that he did it by hand... I looked for the answer to that same question
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Old May 9, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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I don't know if anyone has been looking up this spring compressor. I have found the same looking unit from a handful of companies, with prices ranging from $20.00 on eBay by Cal-Hawk to $59 on the 'net for the KB tool.

I was thinking about trying that Cal-Hawk off eBay. Has anyone ever had any experience with their tools?
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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I missed the "by hand"

Anyways, the Cal Hawk is very similiar to the KB. You can rent the tool at an AutoZone for free, but I do not think they would take kindly to removing some material from the hooks. I rented it before, but could not get the hooks inside of the coil, unmodified. From memory, the center section seemed too tall too. But it appears that it can be done.

If if they look the same, I would make sure that the tool is the same as the KB pictured. Otherwise you may bewasting your time.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_fed
If if they look the same, I would make sure that the tool is the same as the KB pictured. Otherwise you may bewasting your time.
They all look the same, that's why I'm confused...
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Old May 9, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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Ok, here is the deal. The tool is a KD model 3450, made in the USA.The first spring I did without modifing the tool. BUT.... it was kinda like one of those metel puzzles. It took a lot of trial and error before I got it hooked up right. It was slightly more easy after I modified it, but still cannot tell you how I did it. It is a tight space and one arm of the tool is shorter than the other. You just keep trying different things, then it falls into place, and you dont know how you did it. (you are just happy you did) I know it sounds kinda hinky, but a Klann spring compressor is about $1500.00 Also there is a hell of a lot of pressure on this tool, so I would not buy a brand that I was not sure of. You can use an impact, but I was just being careful. (my shoulders would feel better if I had used an impact) I would be happy to answer any other questions.
Jim

Last edited by JimE430; May 9, 2005 at 06:20 PM.
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Old May 13, 2005 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_fed
If you didn't go with different wheels, possibly you could go with a thinner spacer. Don't worry about the lug bolts being too long if you go with a thinner one's in front, you have lots of room behind the front rotors. Note, the rear is a different story, don't go too long there because you will have parking brake interference.

Thanks for the info. I do not have spacers in the back just the front.
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