E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

***List of Common W210 Problems***

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Old 02-08-2012, 12:20 PM
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E300 TD
98 MB E300TD - BAS light problems

Hi everybody,
i got a 1998 Mercedes E300TD and the BAS/ASR light keeps turning ON. In the center of the Dashboard, only the BAS is displayed. I have read on other forums that the brake light switch might be the problem or the voltage on the battery is low. That's not the case with my car. The BAS light only comes on when the outside temperature is below -1 degrees celsius and after a 5 minute drive. Even when it's extremely cold and i restart the car, the BAS light still comes on. I also noted that the engine's output performance is limited. When it's warm outside, the BAS never comes on. Please help me out guys.
Old 05-07-2012, 09:11 PM
  #102  
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2010 E550
10 years with E430 - my experience

Car is '99 E430, bought in 2002, 64k miles, now has 130k.

At time of purchase had all fluids changed including transmission. After a year the evaporator failed, DIY (big DIY) to replace. No major issues since then, car has been good, replaced following, engine mounts, control arm bushings, one front wheel bearing, couple of serpentine idler pulleys, one MAF, lots of rear window regulators (at least 4), spark plugs (had been in for 10 yrs), brake pads and disks, crank position sensor, passenger weight sensor thing (used as input to passenger air bag), gear shifter linkage bushings, etc. It could do with some plug leads.

Runs fine but getting tatty, too much Texas sun.

Obviously I like the car, it does what I want when I want, it's no slouch and comfortable. Tends to eat rear tyres if you have a heavy foot.

Peter
Old 06-02-2012, 04:46 PM
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c320
help me not much air of my ac or heator 1996 e320it is ice cold

can you help
Old 07-28-2012, 04:53 AM
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e 220 cdi diesel triptronic
help help please. my 2002 e 220cdi triptronic with 150.0000 miles keeps stoping every five miles,have recondition all four injectors cost 1.000 pounds, dont know what to do next..............please respond............tks .....socuinn.
Old 07-28-2012, 07:48 AM
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Sounds like a sensor problem, most likely a bad crank position sensor. But it could also be a cam position sensor or MAF sensor. Crank position sensor is the most common failure. Can your dealer check the ECU codes?
Old 10-29-2012, 08:25 PM
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1996 MB E320
Just purchased a 1996 E320 with 95K miles on the clock. Some issues like dash displays check electronics, oil leak near cylinder head and the usual interior issues. Aside from this the car runs fine. I just need to know if it is advisable to change the trans fluid (automatic), flush the brake system, etc.

Thanks,
Old 10-30-2012, 06:28 PM
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1999 E300TD
There are many schools of thought on the issue, mine is follow the schedual in your owners manual and make sure you use the correct fluid for your transmission model. Good Luck!!
Old 11-01-2012, 09:37 AM
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2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
If you don't have a service history showing when the fluids were last changed I would replace them all. MB says coolant is every 3 years and brake fluid is every 2. The transmission fluid should be done every 40,000. Power steering fluid and rear differential fluid is also "due" at your mileage. Also repack your wheel bearings with grease.
Old 07-26-2013, 08:44 AM
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W123 230e w210 E200 K
Is this a common problem that someone has info :2000 E200 k w210 111 engine oil scum in header tank done ck test no co detected, no cream on oil cap no sign of oil in Transmission oil. engine runs fine temp good. also on this engine I have aproblem with the MAF getting fouled with oil I was told by MB tech that crank case vent system has 4 connectors under inlet manifold and they carbon up and need replaceing, I have just been cleaning the MAF every 5,000 kms with Maf cleaner..
Old 06-11-2014, 12:44 PM
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Ford F150
Wanted to jump in on this one. I had three W210s, 1997, 1998 and 2000, with leases that ran through 2004. All three were leased new. I worked for an MB competitor at the time and had a former colleague at MB, who got me a deal on the '97 E320. I was simply not enough car for me, so I worked a deal with the dealer (Prestige MB Paramus, NJ) and got into a '98 E430 Sport. That one was trouble from the start, niggling problems. Then the dealer managed to wreck the thing, TWICE while it was in for service. Putting the car right turned into a bloody fiasco, so I got exasperated and contacted the MB CEO's office. MB stepped right up and I was soon rid of the '98, much to the dealer's chagrin, and into a 2000 E430 Sport. I drove for four years and 38k miles, about 15k of that three trips from Colorado to Florida and back.

The '97 E320 was quality-wise the best of the lot. Only issue came at around 200 miles, wnen I started it and got an ABS MIL, which righted itself and never returned. I drove it a year, about 12k miles with nary a fault other than a tendency to drift. Decided to get a '98 V8. The '98 was another story.

From the beginning it had a scratchy clock spring in the steering column, which the dealer tech trid to fix by squirting grease behind the wheel. Then it had a trans leak (vacuum modulator, common issue), alignment issues, a torn tire sidewall and MB couldn't produce a replacement tire, some kind of screwy issue with the wipers and headlight washers, where if I used the windhield washer spray it triggered the headlight washers. Several trips to the dealer to sort that out. Then the dealer's parts truck backed into it as it was sitting on the lot waiting for service. By then I'd had enough and I was into the 2000.

The 2000 was remarkably good, but the consistent negative was poor dealer service quality. Started when Prestige's lot lizard broke the A/C panel, which took six weeks to replace. A first scheduled service call at a Denver dealer went fine, but the next one (around 20k miles) at the old Premier MB in Albuquerque was a fiasco. First, the dealer servce writer broke the key, which I was able to fix (took two months to get a replacement), then they tried to charge me for the service (all service covered under warranty), then the thing couldn't be driven off the lot. The tech had broken the air mass meter when replacing the air filter. The dealer by then knew I was about to go ballstic, put their lead tech on it, replaced the air mass meter and updated the engine management software. Voila, I was off on the 200 mile drive home, but couldn't shut the engine off for fear te key would take another dump. To be fair, the sotware update improved engine performance noticeably and kicke dthe highway mileage up to near 28 mpg.

All was well until it needed its next service at 30k. Took it back to the dealer in Denver while there on business. Got it back, it flasehed a "low coolant" warning (coolant level was fine), opened the hood and saw it was covered with oil, oil everywhere. Back to the dealer. They said "oh, when he was filling it with oil the auto fill hose popped out and dumped oil all over..." Ok, said I, so, what did you do next? "Oh, we wiped it up best we could." Oil was dripping underneath, had run all over. With much complaining about how long it would take to clean up, they set about thorughly washing it down. I got out of there before they screwed anything else up.

So, Another year went by and the lease was finally up. I dropped it off at a dealer and waved goodbye. Was a really great car, but not well suited to my mountain lifestyle, not very good in winter, etc. Someone got it as a certified used car I'm sure. Just hope they ytook it to a good independent when the warranties were up.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:48 PM
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2001 E430
Hey guys! First post but this seems like a good place to jump in.

I was just given an '01 E430 with 150K miles a week ago and from what I'm reading, its a ticking time bomb! I know it needs a ball joint and appears to have leaking valve covers. I had an oil change done today and had the lower oil pan replaced because of a previously botched drain plug repair.

Here are some of the other "usual" issues that have popped up in one week:

Door close switch is faulty causing door locks to cycle and dome lights to go on and off,
Two of the door limiting straps have failed in a week,
Rear window regulators need replacing,
Bad brake light socket,

God knows what else! I'm going to give it to the church or sell it cheap.
What a turd!
Old 09-11-2015, 10:15 PM
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E430
W210

One guy posted "you guys are freakin' me out," and the last one referred to his 210 as a "turd." Well, I bought a beautiful, one-owner '01 E430 w/68K from a Marine Corps retired brigadier general a year ago. I absolutely love the car, but also wonder if it's a ticking time bomb about to blow my bank account to bits.

I'm 80 yo now and don't drive out of town very often or very far, so I'm going to think about selling my beauty and finding a really nice W126 and driving it unless it's really hot weather, then drive my daughter's '99 Camry with ICE-COLD a/c since she can't drive anymore (nothing, nothing ever goes wrong with that car!). It's tempting.
James
Dallas, Texas
Old 09-12-2015, 01:09 PM
  #113  
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01 E320
Originally Posted by Beverly Sharp
One guy posted "you guys are freakin' me out," and the last one referred to his 210 as a "turd." Well, I bought a beautiful, one-owner '01 E430 w/68K from a Marine Corps retired brigadier general a year ago. I absolutely love the car, but also wonder if it's a ticking time bomb about to blow my bank account to bits.

I'm 80 yo now and don't drive out of town very often or very far, so I'm going to think about selling my beauty and finding a really nice W126 and driving it unless it's really hot weather, then drive my daughter's '99 Camry with ICE-COLD a/c since she can't drive anymore (nothing, nothing ever goes wrong with that car!). It's tempting.
James
Dallas, Texas
.

It's a great car. Just enjoy it. Unless you have rust issues it should be fine. It would be a good idea to have someone check the lower control arms and the spring perches for rust as those have been been known to corrode and break. I've had my 2001'for 10 yrs and it's been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.

Nothing tempting about a Camry!
Old 09-12-2015, 01:34 PM
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E430
210

I appreciate the reply; your advice may be very good, as this is a beautiful, one-owner, low-mileage car. It runs perfectly, but twice recently when I stepped on the accelerator from a stoplight, it would barely move--turned it off and started it up again and it ran as it should. I'm told that I should probably replace the accelerator position sensor. Peace of mind dictates that I'll do that soon.
James
Old 09-12-2015, 01:36 PM
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E430
210

a P.S: no rust on the Texas car, and yes, there is little tempting about our '99 Camry, except that the a/c will still freeze you out (which the 210 will definitely not do in this part of the country).
James
Old 09-13-2015, 07:15 PM
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4 matic
I typically run my a/c at about 79 or 80 on 100 degree days when I run it colder I start to get cold if im wearing shorts.
Old 09-13-2015, 09:22 PM
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E430
210

Well, I declare! I set my a/c at 60 degrees and on a hot day I never get air out of the center vents blow 48 degrees (I'm told it should get down to 38-40 degrees). What am I doing wrong or is my a/c system just not working right?
Beverly
Dallas, TX
Old 09-19-2015, 11:07 AM
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E430
e430

Any idea, anyone?
Beverly
Old 09-19-2015, 07:44 PM
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01 E320
Mine is very cold. There's probably something wrong.
Old 09-19-2015, 07:48 PM
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E430
a/c

I agree; it's off to my indie shop next week for a thorough look-over.
Beverly
Old 09-19-2015, 10:43 PM
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99 E320
this thread was originally created to affirm and identify known problems instead
of a how-do-i-fix-this thread. so for topic specific, to-be-solved issues, it maybe
more suitable to create a separate thread.
Old 05-04-2017, 11:14 AM
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2009 e350
rear end noise

2009 e350 - NOT 4matic - Have strange rear end noise when there is heavy rain......any ideas????
Old 05-21-2018, 05:50 AM
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W210
Originally Posted by cody
My problems have been:

1) MAF sensor broke right after I bought the car at 42k
2) Sunvisor sorta rattles
3) Left Regulator
4) Right Regulator
5) Rusted exhaust system
6) Leaking water pump
What is the symptoms u encountered when your MAF sensor faulty?
Old 05-21-2018, 05:52 AM
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W210
Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom
Problems with mine at 165k (E300 TD)

Rusty panels (some repaired, others need doing)
Belt tensioner (£80 to fix + labour)
Glow Plugs (not really a DIY job, a bit risky)
Dodgy MAFS, but waiting to see what it does (only when cold really)
Wheel bearings going (only cheap to replace though)
Rusty coolant pipe, back of firewall (fixed by sleeving it)
Drop links on anti-roll bar (cheap)
Front ball joints

These are all problems that have been fixed, apart from the rust they're all just wear-and-tear really. Its still a very very quiet and smooth car to drive.
Hi
What''s the symptoms you encountered with faulty MAF Sensor?
Old 05-21-2018, 06:01 AM
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W210
Originally Posted by mxfrank
'99 E320 4matic wagon, owned from new. Here's my list:

1) Rust. Rear gate around handle, around door weatherstripping, lower corners of fender, all suspension components, battery compartment floor.
2) Exhaust. Right cat, cat back mufflers. Now left cat needs to be done.
3) Alternator.
4) Starter.
6) Seat control computer
7) Left and right sideview mirrors literally burned, due to shorted motors.
8) Rattling sunroof
9) Sunroof only opens half way
10) Rapid tire wear
11) AC leaks
12) Defective bulb warning all the time.
13) Outside air temp reads 50 degrees below actual temperature
14) Air mass sensor

That's a lot of trouble for 63K miles.

Question: I need a new left side cat. It's still under the Federal warranty (8 yr/80K miles). Will the dealer give me any problem with doing this under the warranty. I notice some of you are paying for cats.
HI
What's the symptoms you encountered with faulty MAF sensor?


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