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OEM = original equipment manufacturer, the guys who made the OE part or make other OE parts for similar cars.
MB 0001802609 is OE
Mann HU718/5X is OEM, and for most intents and purposes pretty much the same quality, this is not always true but for this it is accepted that it is
Hengst E11H02D155 also carries part 0001802609 on the box, they DO make MB's filters just not for this part, and well call this an aftermarket OEM, where the quality is generally accepted as the same or better. I like this filter for the fit and the lack of paper.
The OE/Genuine part is made by Bosch. The OEM available is Bosch. Also acceptable are Hitachi, Beru, and Delphi for these cars, if you're not saving money just get OEM/Bosch or the MB Genuine part.
The ignition coils, plugs, and wires for these cars are so expensive that it's best to just change the plugs and wires most of the time unless you have a problem. It's more of a diagnose and replace part than it is routine maintenance. Ignition coils have vastly different service life depending on how well the plugs and wires have been maintained. You want fresh equipment under them to make sure they don't work too hard.
Support your local Amsoil dealer, let me know how things go!
OEM = original equipment manufacturer, the guys who made the OE part or make other OE parts for similar cars.
MB 0001802609 is OE
Mann HU718/5X is OEM, and for most intents and purposes pretty much the same quality, this is not always true but for this it is accepted that it is
Hengst E11H02D155 also carries part 0001802609 on the box, they DO make MB's filters just not for this part, and well call this an aftermarket OEM, where the quality is generally accepted as the same or better. I like this filter for the fit and the lack of paper.
The OE/Genuine part is made by Bosch. The OEM available is Bosch. Also acceptable are Hitachi, Beru, and Delphi for these cars, if you're not saving money just get OEM/Bosch or the MB Genuine part.
The ignition coils, plugs, and wires for these cars are so expensive that it's best to just change the plugs and wires most of the time unless you have a problem. It's more of a diagnose and replace part than it is routine maintenance. Ignition coils have vastly different service life depending on how well the plugs and wires have been maintained. You want fresh equipment under them to make sure they don't work too hard.
Support your local Amsoil dealer, let me know how things go!
omg awesome thanks you !
i love detailed stuff like this
so then heres the deal
i bought all new hitachi coils, new boasch wires, and tbh now i forget what plugs i got. think bosch but wont swear to it.
2 weeks later i get a missfire code, cylinder 4. so i moved/swapped the coilpack, wires and plugs over to cylinder 1 and those at cylinder 1 over to cylinder 4
got misfire again ...but now cylinder 1
in talking with buddy of mine, he said / he saw an article that you just can not deviate from oem on the plugs and coil packs. so i am thinking i got bad coil or wire or plug - at least its not a lack of compression thing or something stupid.
but what's also interesting, if the ambient temps are under 75, i never get the miss fire / cel on... but when hot outside and i drive up 2-3 exits on highway and stop at store, it will start to misfire, and i pop hood, take over off and let pack cool down, it runs fine again ...
so i am thinking it is the coil bc of the heat component to it. so i think i want to go bosch and maybe just change them all or should i just change the one that is giving me trouble
I see, it always helps to be more thorough in the original post. I have no experience with Hitachi generally, I just know they're stocked by my vendor who has a 2yr-24k warranty on anything I buy. Sounds like you have a defective coil? You can test but sounds like you did process of elimination.
So wait is your misfire with the NEW stuff or old stuff? You should not deviate from plugs when it is your car. The coils are tuned to the plug/wire to be the most efficient and vice versa so anybody outside of the immediate known OEM brands should not participate in these cars. You can try for plug upgrades but by this point in your fiddling with it you're so exhausted of this its just better to use knowns. Beru, Bremi, Delphi all exist and work but I wouldn't tell people to use them unless there was a parts shortage.
i wish i could do more on this forum honestly, you're very welcome
I see, it always helps to be more thorough in the original post. I have no experience with Hitachi generally, I just know they're stocked by my vendor who has a 2yr-24k warranty on anything I buy. Sounds like you have a defective coil? You can test but sounds like you did process of elimination.
So wait is your misfire with the NEW stuff or old stuff? You should not deviate from plugs when it is your car. The coils are tuned to the plug/wire to be the most efficient and vice versa so anybody outside of the immediate known OEM brands should not participate in these cars. You can try for plug upgrades but by this point in your fiddling with it you're so exhausted of this its just better to use knowns. Beru, Bremi, Delphi all exist and work but I wouldn't tell people to use them unless there was a parts shortage.
i wish i could do more on this forum honestly, you're very welcome
so yes the misfire on cyl 1 is with the new wires/coils/plugs. but only one cylinder it was on 4, but then i moved that to 1 and now the misfire reads out on cyl 1
so i may just replace the one coil versus doing the whole new coil packs on whole motor. just in talking to my buddy that also has a benz...he said to me that the coils/plugs/wires just use oem, never deviate
which is looking/sounding like what my mechanic did by using Hitachi
but im ok with just changing out the one coil pack and seeing it that fixes the problem i guess. initially i thought/felt that i would change out all of them and put in oem and even tho they were just done (like 10k miles ago) but im also trying to conserve and why fix the other 5 cyl's when they not are causing trouble. but i would have to go with Hitachi again for the new one i would replace bc i wouldn't want Bocsh on 1 and Hitachi on the others type of deal.
I see, it always helps to be more thorough in the original post. I have no experience with Hitachi generally, I just know they're stocked by my vendor who has a 2yr-24k warranty on anything I buy. Sounds like you have a defective coil? You can test but sounds like you did process of elimination.
So wait is your misfire with the NEW stuff or old stuff? You should not deviate from plugs when it is your car. The coils are tuned to the plug/wire to be the most efficient and vice versa so anybody outside of the immediate known OEM brands should not participate in these cars. You can try for plug upgrades but by this point in your fiddling with it you're so exhausted of this its just better to use knowns. Beru, Bremi, Delphi all exist and work but I wouldn't tell people to use them unless there was a parts shortage.
i wish i could do more on this forum honestly, you're very welcome
quick question
so the two wires that go from coil to plug.... does it matter which wire goes to which plug?
i just put in new bosch coil, the cel went off soon as i fired it up....but 20 min of driving its back on. it didnt run quite as rough as before. but still it was on. of course left scanner tool at shop, so idk if same or different issue, but inclined to think same misfire issue cyl 1. so my next thing would be to change plugs out to bosch which i have ...but just curious if maybe the wires from coils to plugs may be backwarks or smth and could swap those out first to just have my DD
Alright this ones gonna blow some minds if people aren't familiar with the old wasted spark BS. Yes it has always mattered. I have no idea how many cars are out there with the wrong wires to the wrong plug. This is also why its important not to use parts store wires because they're not labelled. Once you figure out a couple holes you'll know which one goes on the bottom. This is why every single person says to do one plug and wire at a time. I don't know it by heart so I don't want to give out any wrong information.
On the OEM wire setup, they're all LABELLED and it's in a way that makes zero absolute sense and is not remotely intuitive at all, on the valve cover. Every single one of the wires is a different length and actually should go to a specific place, with the longest ones in the corners of the engine.
1 for Cylinder 1
G wire goes to B on the ignition coil for cylinder
L wire goes to A on ignition coil
Follow this for the rest of them. This is specifically why I think on the v12 they just went to a common rail for all the wires and coils.
I hate all of this lol. And to think the CLK GT-R is built with some of this design language makes me shudder.
I grew up with W210's, W140 and W220 Mercedes when they were the then used cars to buy for aspiring Mercedes owners. They're reliable but good god if you don't study nothing makes sense. WHY IS THE MAF IN THE BACK
06-27-2023, 02:30 PM
