E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

99 E300 switching OFF

Old Sep 4, 2006 | 02:56 PM
  #1  
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99 E300 switching OFF

Hi,

The 99 E300 diesel seems to switch off when I stop in the first few stop lights (when the engine is less than 80 degrees). However it starts immediately in teh first attempt.

Any suggestions on what may be causing this and a possible fix...?
Should I try some fuel injector cleaners... or would it be some air bubble in my fuel system...?

Thanks for ur help in advance.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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The most likely item would be a air leak into the fuel lines possibly the o rings or even the fuel shutoff valve could be bad. You should try some powerservice dieselkleen to put in your fuel tank to clean the fuel injectors about six dollars. Diesel is very dirty compared to gas i run the dieselkleen in my car about every other fill up to increase performance.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 09:58 PM
  #3  
raymond g-'s Avatar
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
i dont know jack....but am wondering if the symptoms for CPS ailment apply
in this case, ie to your E300 ?
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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EdzBenz's Avatar
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W210 W140
Joel,
Here are a few comments for your diesel
-Use diesel fuel additive in every tank of fuel. Do this to ensure complete combustion of fuel, better gas mileage, and keep injectors clean. Any manufacturer is good but PowerService and Redline are the most popular brands. Its cheap insurance.
-These models of cars are notorious for air leaks in fuel lines. There are a bunch of fuel lines which can cause leaks. I would agree with the previous post regarding air leaks and the faulty fuel shut off valve.
-Check your fuel filters. Both the pre filter and the regular filter.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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From: Rosamond, CA
1999 E300 TurboDiesel
More than meets the eye

I've heard some really good advice here for your problem, but more information is needed. Is your car running poorly or just shutting off altogether even theough the engine is running smoothly? The suggestions here are ranging from fuel additive (good advice, I use Lubro-Moly Hi-Test), CPS (crank position sensor a.k.a. reference sensor $54 and easy to replace) and fule lines/o-ring leaks. All are well documented issues. My advice, take it in (to MBZ) for a diagnostic ONLY, then determine how much the carge of repair versus your own time, effort and cost to repair would be. Small costs can prevent larger ones. Don't ask how I know.
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