Hello All-

My rear passenger side window on my 98 E320 failed, so i removed the door panel and found that the cable was binding on the motor. The motor still works, so I unbound the cable and am attempting to rewind it on the motor.

I can't seem to figure out how the cable is wound on the motor - seems like it's missing a pulley somewhere.

Also, the motor has a rubber piece that guides the cable which looks in pretty bad shape. I may have to replace the motor, but will still need to rewind the cables.

Can anybody help with this? A picture or diagram would be helpful. Also, any hints on securing it in the up position temporarily would be nice until the parts come in.

Thanks!

 

The Complaint you have posted Sounds Like the Window regulator .I Have not seen a way to repair them.Just replace the window regulator and the rivets..Takes a BIG rivet gun!..But if you do figure a way to repair them please post it!

I have used a Block of wood cut to the Lengh to go between the bottom of the door to the Glass rail

 

Not that it helps your repair effort, but I experienced the same failure about 5 months ago. Fortunately, my recently acquired '98 E320 was a Starmark car, so the dealer/Mercedes ate the cost. Next time it'll be on me. I selfishly encourage you to record and post your repair experience.
Mercedes organizational mentality that denies owners service & maintenance documentation for their cars is perverse, to say the least. I suggest either build perfect cars or provide owners with the service manuals to keep them patched together and on the road.
Good luck w/ your repair.

 

I recently replaced a rear window regulator on my '96 E320. There is hardly any way to salvage it. You can save the motor, it is just mounted onto the regulator with a set of Torx screws. I spent about $120 for the regulator, but I have friends who bought it for less.
The rivets are a bit of a pain if you use a manual riveter. It was definitely a workout for me. Otherwise the replacement is very straightforward. Use a 4.8 mm or 3/16 inch drill bit to remove the rivets. Works like a charm.

The window itself stayed in the up postion once I pushed it all the way up. If you don't trust this, I would wedge a piece of wood into the door and under the window.

Here is something about this repair I wrote up for a post at Edmunds. Hope it helps:

<i> Tools necessary: </i><BR>
a) Trim Tool<BR>
b) Drill and 4.8mm or 3/16 inch drill bit.<BR>
c) Riveter<BR>
d) Assortment of screwdrivers.<BR>
e) Torx bits (or driver) for electric motor mounting.<BR>
<P>
Steps:<BR>
<P>
1.) Use a very small screwdriver to pop the hard plastic shell behind the door release handle. Use a large phillips screw driver to unscrew the screw behind it. Its probably very tight.<BR>
<P>
2.) Do the same with a small round plastic cover under the actual (big) door handle. The same kind of screw needs to be removed.<BR>
<P>
3.) The door has a small clear light in the bottom. Use the small screw driver to remove the light. Disconnect the two connectors.<BR>
<P>
4.) Use the small screwdriver to remove the window switch in the rear door. Gently, oh so very gently, use the screwdriver to release the clasps that hold the switch.<BR>
<P>
5.) With the trim tool, pull the <b> lower </b> part of the trim away from the door. Feel the plastic plugs with the trim tool, compress and pull them. Be careful not to damage the moisture barrier.<BR>
<P>
6.) Unscrew the door lock pin and remove it. Also remove the small plastic trim cover from the door lock itself.<BR>
<P>
7. )The top of the trim is held by <a href="http://home.earthlink.net/~herrma/_uimages/door_detail.jpg" >metal clasps</a>.<BR>
Gently lift the trim up. If you can reach, gently push up the horizontal part of the trim from below. Completely take off the trim.<BR>
<P>
8.) The door release cable is still connected. Disconnect it from behind the release lever.<BR>
<P>
9.)Now your should see just the <a href="http://home.earthlink.net/~herrma/_uimages/door_pink.jpg" >moisture barrier</a>. Gently pull it off. Be careful, it rips easily. Pull it just far enough to expose the regulator mechanism.<BR>
<P>
10.) Unclasp a small plastic clasp from where the window connects to the plastic slider of the regulator. Move the window slightly to the side until it unhooks, and push the window all the way up. (It should support its own weight in that position.)<BR>
<P>
11.) Presuming that the regulator mechnism took a hit and is responsible for the power window failure, take a 4.8 mm (or 3/16 inch) drill bit and drill through the 4 metal rivets holding the regulator. Drill straight through, and dont use any larger bit,or you may damage the door.<BR>
<P>
12.) Unconnect the electrical connector on the regulator, tilt the regulator and pull it out. Mine looked like <a href="http://home.earthlink.net/~herrma/_uimages/regulator_old.jpg">this</a>. <BR>
<P>
13.) Use the torx bits to remove the electric motor from the old regulator and transfer it to the new one.<BR>
<P>
13.) Install the <a href="http://home.earthlink.net/~herrma/_uimages/regulator_new.jpg">new one</a> by sliding it into place and push the new rivets into place. (I would suggest connecting the motor and the window to the regulator and testing the assembly at this point of time, before the rivets are set.)<BR>
<P>
14.) Use the riveter to set the rivets that came with the new regulator.<BR>
<P>
15.) Steps 9 to 1 in reverse.<BR>