alixx_pt

You've been of great help ! I would have to be blind I if don't get it right with all this help.

I understand your drawings clearly. As for the electrical part I have no problem with that (I think ).

Anyway I feel much more confident knowing I have all your help.

Thanks so much.

alixx

alixx_pt

My car has a washing system underneath the headlights.

Any advise on this? If I can remember I read something alerting for balast location when this system is present. I think Zam wrote this.

Thanks,

alixx

Ben'z

I just saw it...

Yes, that's what I did. (followed your advice)

Ben'z

I remember someone mentioned it, too.
If I am not wrong, you can mount it behind the cover.

alixx_pt

I decided to add some pics for those that don't clearly understand the experts explanation:
This is what I took out for the solenoid to fit through:
(see 1st pic)

The fixing solution (again for w211 lenses):
(see 2nd pic)

The extra flap I mentioned (I didn't remove it 'cause it come handy):
(3rd pic)

BR

alixx

ardisorn

Is it possible to replace projector without removing the lense?
Coz this might be a big trouble for me.
I'm going to retrofit depo headlight for my w220.
Would it be easier to retrofit them with Halogen projector.

Ben'z

I don't know how about W220.
But, for my W210 DEPO lights, I have to removing the lense to replace the projectors.

EdzBenz

Can anyone provide some guidance regarding the splice for the bixenon projector hook up? I did my retro, but have not hooked up the high beams to the bixenon solenoid.
-Which line am I splicing to get the correct current to activate the solenoid?
-Where can I get the small, plastic (male end) electrical connector to mate with the female end on the solenoid switch? If it is not available, how did you guys modify it to work correctly?

raymond g-

the solenoid leads splice into the HIGH beam leads. i understand that most
solenoids are polarity sensitive so be sure you measure identify this on the
solenoid...as well as the high beam wires first.

ergo...when the lights are on normally, no current flow to the high beam. but
when the highs are triggered, current flows to the H7 high beam.... (then) as
well as the solenoid, thus triggering the cutoff/shield to drop, revealing the
full HID beam.

solenoid plug is often proprietary. you may want to locate a damaged projector
on Ebay and salvage the plug for your application. or, you can just solder
direct (if the design allows) and silicone fill the cavity.

good luck. which projector design are you using?

alixx_pt

Attached you can see a wiring diagram (or at least I tried to do it)-
Some guys just cramp on existing wires but I decided to cut, solder and cover with shrinking tube.

Hope it helps...

Masters, please jump in if I messed up.

BR

Alixx

Attention ! Test solenoid polarity as raymond said. You can use a simple 9v battery.

alixx_pt

I can take some pics today.
I'm just applying the RTV !

Tomorrow will be D day !

Alixx

EdzBenz

Thanks for the response and diagrams, fellas. I just ordered the male connectors for the solenoid off ebay. I'll post an update once I'm done.

Semikolon

Hi

I was just wondering about the shroud (chrome ring). I am building a headlight using depo and e55 bi-xenon. from the front of the bowl to the front of the projector there are about 5-10mm difference between the depo h7 and the e55. This will cause the shroud to touch the outer reflector when moving the inner reflector backwards more than about 5mm.

So does anybody know how much the reflector is moved when aiming?
And more important, how much can it move when auto-leveling? I have all the needed auto level equipment form my original xenon headlights, and it's just to exchange the black thing on the back on the back of the headlights with my auto-leveling motors.

illest

Looking at the inside of the depo it looks like the adjustment screw things move the whole plastic peice that the projector is mounted to.

raymond g-

S-
are you reusing the Depo shroud? it should be sized just right...w/o touching
the large, outer plastic reflector. depending (of course) what and how you're
mounting the E55, you shouldn't have to cut much, if any, of the 4 plastic
mounting posts on the Depo

Semikolon

Looks like I'll have to cut about 5-6-7-8 mm from the mounts to be sure the shroud does not touch the outer reflector when autoleveling... I adjusted the headlights (probably a bit low though) and when I pulled out the autoleveling motor the ring touched the reflector before I even had it out of the housing. so no room to adjust there...

Then I probably have to drill holes to make new mounts if there are no more room for the screws to get grip

Semikolon

A have two cars I am going to do this with, so I bought two pairs of e55 bi-xenon projectors. One of the pairs have some sort of shield on the top of the projector between the bowl and the lens. Is there any difference in the performance of these projectors?

illest

Semi - follow the link in post #117.

About how much space should there be between the outer reflector and the shroud?

cragigotgame

It looks like we are going to have another projector retrofit revival!!

Semikolon

oh, thank you. but it wasn't exactly what I was looking for. I have a plate parallell with the length of the projector going from the bowl all the way to the lens, covering the whole top of the projector... I also think the maxima lower cutoff shields was there though...


The difference between the length of the depo projector and the hella projector is about 7-8mm, so I have reduced the upper mounts to 8mm and the lower to 9mm. plus I have added a couple mm spacer to the shroud. On the second headlight set I will cut the mounts down to 5 and 6mm instead of adding the spacer.
I have not tried to reassemble the headlights yet though, but I think everything will work very well... The reason why I use different measures on the lower and upper mounts is to get the h7 high beam a bit higher than straight forward. in my experience this will make the high beam a bit more suitable for our roads.

MR888

Do the H7 Depos plug and play with a W210 that has HID stock? I mean just the power plug, im planning on using an aftermarket ballast.

Semikolon

I'm not sure if you know what you are asking for...


The w210 headlights use a 4-pin connector to connect low beam, high beam and parking lights (one negative ground and 3 positive switched)

In the OEM HID headlights the ground and the input for low beam goes into a 9006 plug which connects the ballast. In the DEPO headlights the ground and low beam goes into a H7 connector..

MR888

Is the 4pin connector the same on the DEPOs as my stock headlights?

Semikolon

yes of course

EdzBenz

My lights are set up a little different than your diagram. The high beam and parking light are switched. The high beam light bulb is above the parking light bulb. Plus, there is a black wire that runs consecutively from the wiring harness, to the high beam, then to the parking bulb, then back to the wiring harness.
I wired up my solenoid to correspond with both wires that are going to the high beams. But, nothing is triggering the solenoid switch when the high beams are on. I reversed the connections and still nothing.
However, I did connect a solenoid wire to what I believe is the positive lead for the parking lights. It did trigger the solenoid, but it was always on.

What am I doing wrong?
Any ideas on what to try next?

Thanks,