Disabling the EGR solves a lot of problems

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Lancelot,

Can you post the part numbers of the 3 items you used? I can only partially see the one for the blocking piece. Thanks a bunch!!!

Read the thread player!
Post #16

oops! I did read the thread but somehow missed it! ;-) Thanks for pointing it out!

Later!

Remember that closing the EGR only works on NA Diesels, the TurboDiesels have a MAF and will go into limp mode!

Also BEWARE that with a closed EGR you're raising the combustion temperature from 350 degrees centigrade to 600 centigrade ALWAYS. Because the EGR is kinda choking the engine with an oxygen poor mixture, combustion takes place at a lower temperature of around 350 degrees. Only at full-load the EGR closes so the engine gets pure oxygen and burns at around 600 degrees. With a closed EGR it's always 600. (more oxygen burns more intensly)

The cars cooling system is up to this, but if your exhaust is a few years old, it'll fall apart earlier. If your headgasket is deteriorating it will fail sooner!

Overhere in the Netherlands they don't check NOx for smog test, only sooth output. If they measure NOx in your country/state the car WILL NOT pass emissions with a closed EGR!

BUT: my Mercedes indy tells me time and again how smooth my 220Diesel is running compared to other C and E 220 Diesels they maintain...
It's smoother, quieter and the car wants to keep accelerating on the highway. Often I realize I'm already doing 140km/h where 120 is allowed.

Read here about what happens on a TurboDiesel: https://mbworld.org/forums/3322442-post23.html

Mine is a 96 non-turbo, but it does have 156K miles so I'm a little hesitant on doing this and having more parts fail sooner.

I was looking into this because I just had to do a major cleanup of that soot buildup everywhere in the air path into the engine, and I'm still having hesitations with the engine while on the highway (I'm proceeding to replace some other vacuum valves). So, I thought this would definitely help keep everything cleaner, but I guess everything comes at a cost. :-P

By the way, does this also cause more fuel to be burnt, and hence, less miles-per-gallons?

Thanks again for the warning!

Just food for thought. I performed this mod on my '97 years ago, when it had approx. 130k. Just around 204k now with no issues.

Thanks for your 2 cents michakaveli! I'm going to order the parts while I keep thinking about it...

I tried to order that blocking plate. Apparently it's a euro specific part and my local stealership said that they couldn't get it. Good Luck!

Let us know if you have any success.

My in-laws are in Spain, so I'm sure I can find a way to bribe them to stop by a dealer over there and mail me the part...

I like how you work

sorry but why I don't see the photo?!?!

Wait a minute, I thought '97 E 300 Ds would set a fault code if you disabled the EGR. Did you get a check engine light, and if not, what exactly did you do. I would like to disable mine, but the VA state inspection requires that all emission devices look stock, even though they do not check for emissions.

I did not disable mine, I merely swapped the direction of the tube leading from the exhaust manifold leading to the EGR. The end that was attached to the exhaust manifold is now attached to the EGR, the open end of the feed tube now has a breather filter on there. I made a cap from copper to cover the exhaust manifold opening.

Ah yes, I saw that, but I don't think it would fly in Va. Maybe I could tap into the air box and use a hose to get the filtered air to the EGR, making it look almost stock. I sure wish one of the electrical geniuses here would figure out what signal the computer wants on the '97s, and how to fake it out. The electrical solution for the turbo diesels is SO impressive.

It's really easy to swap back and forth with my setup if I needed to. Maybe the day before the inspection you can "re-connect" the EGR tube properly and then switch it back after... ? Jus' thinkin'

The NON-TURBO E300 Diesel doesn't have a Mass AirFlow sensor and cannot determine if the EGR is operating or not and will NOT go into limp mode when disabling the EGR. There's a simple way to verify this by disconnecting the vacuüm hose on the EGR-valve body. If you don't get a CEL/EPC light or limp mode after a few days it's safe to block it off. What you will notice is a quieter and more responsive engine and less black smoke...

btw; my original post was 2-years ago, today I have a 320CDI OM613 that I electronically disabled. This electronic mod also works for the OM606 TurboDiesel...

I understand from these forums that the '96 E 300 D can be disabled with out setting a check engine light, but the '97 has some electronics on the EGR valve that will set a CEL if the EGR is disabled. I have not confermed it personally.

I put a blocking plate I cut out of coffee can over 300000 miles ago . Car runs perfect , I found on my 1996 606 it ran better with a blocking plate.

So, do you have a '96 or a '97, and exactly where did you put the blocking plate? If it is a '97 do you have a check engine light lit? Some have blocked the port on the exhaust manifold and added a filter to provide air to the EGR to fool the sensor that measures exhaust flow. I may do this, but I would have to remove it for inspections in Virginia.

Peachtree parts forum gave me the EGR idea on my 1996 ,I installed the blocking plate at 90000 at 296000 miles # 6 injector let go , meltdown The engine was running poor , I couldn t figure it out, went to stealership , $400 later , said codes were cleared ? Some electrical problem was repaired , also injector # 6 was clogged , cleaned it . Car ran good for 900 miles , the a meltdown at 70 mph . I asked why not change injectors like spark plugs , stealership said injectors very expensive ? #!##%^ 606 engine is $$. So I got a 1997 , check engine light has been on for more than 320000 miles . Sorry I cannot verify blocking the EGR is causing the light. But I can tell you the procerure is easy 20 minutes with 10mm ratchet 3 minutes air tool. I also removed the air flapper inside intake , above egr , you cannot miss it , easy

there is an electrical setup to disable the EGR valve on the 611 & 612engines using a couple of resistors and a diode, using the signal from the MAF and power and signal wire from EGR control switch, the one the vacuum tube is connected to. there is an earlier thread on this subject already describing the method used.