2001 E320 AC Compressor R&R
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: austin, tx
2001 E320
2001 E320 AC Compressor R&R
Hi, My E320 w/70K miles appears to have a busted ac compressor. AC stopped blowing cold so took it to the indy shop for a check they came back and said the compressor is broken. They did diagnostics for about an hour. I asked to see it and they showed me that the pully just turns easily by hand, which they said indicates it is broken. I am assuming that other tests also pointed to the compressor. They want $2150 to replace which includes new drier, expansion valve and other incidentals. The labor is about 8 hours.
The mechanic said that they may have to flush the system once they get it appart as the compressor could have spewed metal fragments.
My intent is to diy but the "metal fragments" concerns me as I don't have a clue how to flush the system. I think I can do the R&R and the parts as I saw the "How to repair the AC system Part1" by jnash
What should I do about the "metal fragments"?
Also, can anyone point me to a list of all the parts I will need to I can buy them beofre I get into this.
Here is what I think I need:
Compressor, Receiver/Drier, Eexpansion Valve, O-Ring set; AC Hose Assembly; Receiver Drier to AC Condenser - this is about $600 in parts.
Any thoughts on what else I will need?
Thank you for your time and advice. These forums and really helpful!
Here are my AC codes:
1. 91
2. 84
3. 96
4. 98
5. 94
6. 175
7. 00
8. 94
9. 27
10. 3.4
11. 0.7
12. 4.1
20. 3.2
21. 42
22. 00
23. 32
24. 13.5
40. 164
41. 91
42. 104
43. 136
Eb1 234
The mechanic said that they may have to flush the system once they get it appart as the compressor could have spewed metal fragments.
My intent is to diy but the "metal fragments" concerns me as I don't have a clue how to flush the system. I think I can do the R&R and the parts as I saw the "How to repair the AC system Part1" by jnash
What should I do about the "metal fragments"?
Also, can anyone point me to a list of all the parts I will need to I can buy them beofre I get into this.
Here is what I think I need:
Compressor, Receiver/Drier, Eexpansion Valve, O-Ring set; AC Hose Assembly; Receiver Drier to AC Condenser - this is about $600 in parts.
Any thoughts on what else I will need?
Thank you for your time and advice. These forums and really helpful!
Here are my AC codes:
1. 91
2. 84
3. 96
4. 98
5. 94
6. 175
7. 00
8. 94
9. 27
10. 3.4
11. 0.7
12. 4.1
20. 3.2
21. 42
22. 00
23. 32
24. 13.5
40. 164
41. 91
42. 104
43. 136
Eb1 234
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Südflorida
'99 E430, '05 ML500, '15 GLK350
Don't buy the diagnosis just yet. The pully will always spin freely when the compressor is off because the clutch is not engaged. Sensor 7 shows that you have no refrigerant hi-side pressure, which indicates that your freon leaked out and the compressor has disengaged due to the low pressure switch. Find any reputable shop and tell them you have a leak and want it located. They will recharge the freon and look for the leak with dye or freon sniffers. After repairing, they can do the flush and refill for a reasonable price.
The compressor may be the culprit, but what they told you is BS, and their price is extreme.
Note: if you want to prove this yourself, as I have recently done myself, pickup a can or two of R134 and a fill line from Autozone (with no leak seal gunk in it). Stick the can in warm (<120F) water to help vaporize the R134, hook up to the low side fill valve and let sit a while (with the engine off, since it will take a while). Monitor your sensor 7 pressure after a bit and once it has exceeded 3-4 bar, you should have enough to reset the low pressure switch and your compressor will kick in once you start up and turn on the AC. Leave it running to pull the entire contents in (until the can is no longer cold to the touch).
The compressor may be the culprit, but what they told you is BS, and their price is extreme.
Note: if you want to prove this yourself, as I have recently done myself, pickup a can or two of R134 and a fill line from Autozone (with no leak seal gunk in it). Stick the can in warm (<120F) water to help vaporize the R134, hook up to the low side fill valve and let sit a while (with the engine off, since it will take a while). Monitor your sensor 7 pressure after a bit and once it has exceeded 3-4 bar, you should have enough to reset the low pressure switch and your compressor will kick in once you start up and turn on the AC. Leave it running to pull the entire contents in (until the can is no longer cold to the touch).
Last edited by Hirnbeiss; Mar 20, 2009 at 06:37 PM.
