ncd20

Is there any secret way to reset the ECU and more importantly "LIMP" mode with out a diagnostic tool.. mine is a 2001 Diesel 3.2 CDI ?? it used to go like **** off a shovel, but now it refused to rev harder then 2kRPM in any gear unless you really give a lead leg treatment...
Driving with the tip helps a little but its as if sometthinng else is sapping the power away
and the turbo is not workinng right costing me a fortune on juice


I have tryed the battery trick it fails to help..
I reset all the service intervals
unpluged the bas/esp module under back seat
and tryed the silly pedal down for 15sec crap

the car has always had its issues with the tranny sticking/slipping, and Bas/Asr but it never caused it to limp so bad, Sometthinng I canT get garages to comprehend.. Surely the car is just how it was before but limp ** I hate IT HATE IT HATE IT it is sending me mental

I had MAF/MAS failure in my Kompressor before it does not feel like that ... shuddering and spluttering and next to undriveable with ultra rough idle* mine is smooth and fast still * just very sedate and a bit rough sounding at low revs.


Can you not just some how disconect the ECU box open it up and short out the NVRAM or what ever type of semi-conductor it may be that is rembering this bull****????

PLS HELP !!!!

TMAllison

LHM would be when the trans goes into saftey mode an provides 1st, 2nd and reverse gears only. I don't thnk thats what you are expiriencing? If it is, it will typically have to be repaired, then have the codes reset using SDS or orther high end scanner.

Is your CEL lit up?

Sounds like the ECU has registered a fault and has reduced fuel supply and turned the turbo off. The MAF is a common culprit although there are other devices that can also cause that to occur. Resetting those codes often restores power, until the fault occurs again.

ncd20

you must be right because when its been standing for a while, i get all gears and no slip, and the gear changes are acceptable, considering the LHM symptom/effect but I know it must just need a tranny flush. pocket to light

I wish i could reset the codes cause I am the type of person who will systimatically eleminate every component myself.

no I dont get CEL, the thing is you can kinda force the turbo to go with the tip tronic but it just sounds like rubbish .. imagine a 2cv with a cheap electric super charger or something horrendis noise compared to what it should be..
prehaps its just cut the boost down to a diabolically low amount.
most people dont believe it but my car seemly unmodified usuall demiener sounded like a very angry v6 with a filthy WHIISSSSTLE PSSSHH vent type noise

Also I dont think its the MAF because as I said I have been down that road addmitidly that was a petrol and this is a diesel .. but if they are the same device in essence then I would imagine the side effects of faultyness would be the same or similar.
1) there is no shaking/shuddering or hesitating when you press the pedal hard
2) when she wants to go it will go a little bit more then its usally limpyness **Sometimes** if normal limp took 80% of the power some times its just like 75% next traffic light back to super limp again!!
3) the idle isnt that rough as with my past experince of the maf going wrong

pains me to think: MB are seriously screwing us over with their ****ty sensors and ecu/tcu system that is clearly designed to send you back to the steelership/garage over and over at there benifit. I used to love this car .. but its started to get tiddious.. they have put "cleaver" electronics every where and in the most part it was smart untill they come with the dagger / lugar in your side with some bs german logic quirk that sends you round and round in circles unless you got the bucks to have it reset every 10 ficken seconds

TMAllison

I don't know your engine well; on mine, the whistle and excess air noise would usually mean there is A) an exhaust restriction or leak, or B) more likely, a leak in the charge air pipe plumbing feeding the intake manifold, or C) a vacuum line is disconnected allowing pressurized air to escape.

ncd20

tnx for your replys friend..
summerirsing the noise as a anomily like that is helpfull and fresh.. something I havnt herd before but first the Limpness must be eleminated.

interesting .... I will cheak all the vacume lines i can see again ... and also see if i can beg the 20 smackers to get the code read ...every now and again when the power comes back a little bit, the express feature of the electric windows stops... but I was told the vacume controller is electric and bullet proof on the 2001+ modell.. this is why i find the whole situation just bizzare ?

ConeKillerSTI

i'd check for boost leaks

ncd20

what would be the best way to do this anyway??

TMAllison

First fire it up and crawl under it while a friend raises rpm's. Check air path of intake and exhaust, front to rear.

ncd20

I take it there is enough presure blasting out that I will feel the winds of
garrett comming from the potential leak?? its hard to see with the eye alone i was planing of spraying some wd40 on the pipes to see if bubbling happened

TMAllison

Intake side will be pulling air in, exhaust side pushing air out.

ncd20

ok I have looked as best I can, I dont have any friends at the moment, but when i get some new ones I will try again.. so singal handed I have observed that the intake is sucking like in like mad, I can feel quite a bit of air in the intake hole on the front of the bonnet I reseted a block of wood on the pedal and I didnt get gas'ed so I prersume the exhaust is tight.

I noticed the actuator from some little gadget and forced that to the extended posistion (manifold flaps fully open??) nothing changes the turbo is not on or fully running. I have been studying EGR and Manifold/Turbo issues on other forums/threads and found that there is two types of Limp mode one relates to the tranny and the other one is what is probably as you guys pointed out.

lowering the Fuel presure
some how not spining the turbo or atleast not fully
not opening the manifold flaps

which is why i have my finger pointed back on the egr, but its egr is not like other e-class's I have researched (which just have some old little scraggly metal tube and the valve resembling a dump valve that looks like it was made in the 16th centuary) on mine it seems like a new incarnation of the system.. its more blake 7 looking and has some mad baffle type contraption and its wedged into the manifold.
the MAF is looking for that drop in the air intake not getting it giving me limp mode #2, another thing i checked was the transducer which when i pulled the line going to the EGR gave off a short hiss of air..

reasons for manifold flaps to not be right
1) stuck clagged up
2) some other type of internal failure the rod that moves them inside (prehaps stuck)
3) as I understand it if they had broken away the engine would be seriously damaged and not even capable of a lazy 60mph my car still gets to a 100mph all be it in its own time

its not like the actuator is stiff or loose its seems right and if its doing somethinng inside but Im not a expert.

would you agree.. if you do I will take the manifold off but it seems like its going to be hard for me.. the fuel lines being the first problem, the EGR is some mad contraption with a square type baffel type thingy, and the manifold flaps actuator thing + every flippin loom is some how cable tied down on the manifold.

seeing as it was not offerd to the US it explains why its hard to get good info on my engine as you detroit type dudes never had one to play with

ncd20

just to keep you informed I am in the process today of changing the fuel and air filter (it was fubar and the maf is right next in line to the filter), considering a oil filter as well but I dont think I'll be able to afford the oil (more expensive then the filter) hah

ok fuel filter and air filter replaced,
1x Hengst Air Filter £13.80
1x Bosch Fuel Filter £6.50
4x 12mm Strangle band £2.50
finding out you forget the device to open the filter housing and cranking like a mad man £priceless

Tommorow I am getting the oil + oil filter + tranny gasket and filter
what would be helpfull is how to replenish the tranny fluid? and how much will be needed, since its not the full monty flush and evil fluid will have to remain in the torque convertor,




With regard to getting codes my local indys decided to start acting weird asking me for £40 to read/reset the bastid ecu.

How much engine oil would the 611/613 engine digest when drained as well?

the tranny dipstick hole has that black thingy on it??
I think i read some where people just resort to breaking it off!! ????

update 2

So It turns out I dont have a drain plug on my convertor, and I decided to replace at least the seals on the "AT connector" before I flush depending on if its the yellow or white ended one... also as my model is updated I gues i dont get no oil in the EGS unit as its not near the "selector module"... its up front right?

soooo any ones thought on jacking up one side then draining and then other side so it gets tilted both directions to get the maximum gobbledy gook out.. also what about running some fluid into the system with the Pan off wouldnt this push the old fluid out?? prehaps run it briefly and cycle through the gears whilst non existant friends poor a 1ltr of fresh into it

I would like to inspect and clean up my selector module but MB jack *** car builders seem to have made this task a pain in the ******* as per usuall.. am I correct in believing you must remove the whole centre console inorder to get to the security torx screws grr

This + Oil chanage is what I will do before going to the scam artist Code reading garage... I DO not apreciate being charged that to read reset and run .. I dont need lengthy testing ... If I get MAF code that is the 1 thing left to replace it is mildy expensive and I will replace that last, along with also possibly getting MAP code due to the flaps being held shut by carbon deposists if i get that I know I will need a new manifold gasket and some paitents to take down the manifold and go chasing after the EGR.. either way since MB and the INDYS want to act like such jack ***'s over this testing
thing i will make it my lifee long mission to find a way to manually reset the ecu and proove there "fast ***" estimations wrorng

any way my bits I got so far.. did I forget anything?
1) torque wrench
2) 5mm inhex + T20 Torx
3) Filter and Gasket
4) Sump nut crush washer, and new dipstick plastic clip
5) Anti Greese Paper to clean belly of tranny and pan.
6) How made Dipstick from curtain wire
7) 10ltr square cat tray receptical for old oil
8) Mummsy's finest funnel from her kitchen
9) 6 Ltrs of ATF ** brand to be used is per website recomendatiion from Euro Car parts
10) AT Connector *Not sure if 100% needed yet*

ncd20

bump