lotusing

My car starts and runs OK then after running for several minutes, the sunroof will not open. Garage door opener stops working, horn stops working then I hear the ignition starts making a clicking sound then the car stalls. It usually starts up again. Today after idling and checking for CEL faults with my computer, no faults. Everything worked fine then again with the electrical gremlins, I shut off the engine and now it will not start. I sounds like the ignition but what would cause the other electric issues? The a/c works, windows work, locks work, what is causing this headache?
Thanks

raymond g-

have you dbl checked your battery health yet? check fluid level. check
specific gravity. check voltage and that the battery can hold a charge.
must be trickle charged if low, not just jump started and driven around.

lotusing

Thank you for your response. The battery can cause these issues? When I try starting it, it does spins quickly. Thanks again.

lotusing

I guess it need to put in a new battery.

RichardM98

To second raymond these CAN bus cars seem to be especially sensitive to battery voltage. Whenever electrical gremlins appear checking the battery is always a good idea. The old idea that if the lights are fairly bright the battery is fine just doesn't apply to these cars. Most often it's loss of sync on express window feature or sunroof. With mine it was those plus sluggish solenoid on key insert, BAS and Oil Level sensor errors. All disappeared and never returned once I replaced the battery. Good luck.

lotusing

Thanks Richard and Raymond. I will buy a new battery tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Do you guys recommend a MB batt or are other batt OK to use?

RichardM98

I can't speak for Raymond but I was only suggesting that you evaluate your battery. I'm not positive it is your battery. Just so we're clear. I'm a strong believer in analyzing the problem first then spending the money. I've seen people spend quite a bit of money on a problem because 'the symptoms' seemed similar to someonelse only to have the problem remain. The best way to test the battery is to remove it from the car and put a load tester on it at the bench. When you're sure it's the battery here's the info:

Of course, on sites like this you will get opinions from 'just get a battery that fits - 12v is12v to spend the extra for an MB battery. I decided to get the MB battery. Since the car is sensitive I wanted the OEM replacement. It was $175 at the dealer. BTW, you can call 1-800-FOR MERCedes and a tech will bring a battery to you (same one as at the dealer) and install it for free. This might be convenient for you. They'll also resync the windows and sun roof and enter the radio code. And properly dispose of the old one.

Another reason to consider an MB battery is that many people report extended life. Some posters have reported 8 years or so. Prior to owning my MB I bought several high end Delco batteries but never did much better than 3 1/2 to 4 years. In that case, the cost is about the same. Good luck.

raymond g-

lotusing:
I would echo what Richard posted. There should be no assumption that,
given the sparse information in your initial post, that we can so easily
determine the cause/effect. They're just guesses.

My response was to probe and an attempt to begin isolating....the start
of a flow chart and to rule out other considerations. The requirements for
a car to function are air, fuel, electrics. Your clues prompted me to start
with the electrics. The primary source is the battery so that would appear
to be the heart of where we start.

As mentioned earlier, there is no point tossing money and parts while we're
still at the guessing game stage. Conversely, there is no need to replace
the battery if there hasn't been a determination that it is in anything but
perfect health...first.

I know that it is natural to go for fast food fix. If speed is important to you,
then you call the 1-800 line for Mercedes road rescue. Next is to have your
car brought into the dealer. In these two cases, the cost for speedy diag/
prognosis is high, easily hundreds $.

The Internet mechanic route requires a bit more patience, and that we have
a keyboard dialog in step-by-step fashion...which takes time, but may cost
less than going through the dealer.

If you have an independant shop near you which you trust, have them perform
an inspection on the battery first. If you/neighbor/buddy have a volt meter
as well as a hydrometer ($20+ at autozone), and a trickle charger those
will get you answers to the initial questions regarding the battery's health.

lotusing

Update,

I had the battery load checked and it is 100%. The alternator has checked out 100%. I was playing with the ignition and found that when I push the key or wigle the key in the electrical gremlins go away. It seems that the ignition box has gone bad. Has anyone posted how to remove? Thanks

RichardM98

Some info here.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...wont-turn.html

I know they sell a special 'socket' to remove the chrome locking ring.

lotusing

Richard, thanks for the link. My car has the in-fared key and I need to remove the box that gets programed by the dealer.

raymond g-

whew...glad you didn't have the battery replaced then.

if you/anyone is in Seattle, I have ignition puller that you can borrow....for
the cost of a Happy Meal or similar.

lotusing

Thanks Raymond. Unfortunately I live in Jersey. I thought that with the electronic box you didn't need a ignition puller.