Got my H&R Cup Kit for my 01 wagon, what parts do I need for Self-Leveling delete?
#1
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Thread Starter
Got my H&R Cup Kit for my 01 wagon, what parts do I need for Self-Leveling delete?
I'm going to be installing the H&R Cup Kit for my 01 wagon this weekend, well the fronts at least. I'm trying to put together a list of parts to order for swapping the PS pump for standard non self-leveling so I can do the rears possibly sometimes next week or whenever the new PS pump and parts comes in.
My questions is, looking at the Startek EPC and AllDataDIY, it seems like the wagons dont have a PS pump reservoir, so when I order the PS pump I guess I need to get one with the reservoir attached. Any other hoses or nuts and bolts that I need for the job? I see that I need some specialty tools to take off the bolt that holds the PS pump.
Also, Can I just leave the hard and soft lines that go back to the shock, on the car or does it get in the way of the new standard pump?
Mark Cummins, your help is greatly appreciated!
BTW, if anyone is interested in a super low milage wagon shocks or anything else relating to self leveling suspension (ps pump, sphere, etc..) that are in perfect condition, front and rear, I'm willing to sell it for a 1/4 of what they cost new.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks,
My questions is, looking at the Startek EPC and AllDataDIY, it seems like the wagons dont have a PS pump reservoir, so when I order the PS pump I guess I need to get one with the reservoir attached. Any other hoses or nuts and bolts that I need for the job? I see that I need some specialty tools to take off the bolt that holds the PS pump.
Also, Can I just leave the hard and soft lines that go back to the shock, on the car or does it get in the way of the new standard pump?
Mark Cummins, your help is greatly appreciated!
BTW, if anyone is interested in a super low milage wagon shocks or anything else relating to self leveling suspension (ps pump, sphere, etc..) that are in perfect condition, front and rear, I'm willing to sell it for a 1/4 of what they cost new.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks,
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
actually, is these a feed and a return line for the SLS? Can't I not just bypass rear shocks by connecting the feed to the return via some kind of fitting?
I know its a half *** job, but seems so much simpler then replacing the PS pump!
I know its a half *** job, but seems so much simpler then replacing the PS pump!
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
after further research I found out that the top mounting hardware and bushings are different on the wagon (with SLS) vs. sedan (standard).
#4
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
Parts needed
SEDAN P/S pump
Hoses from Steering rack are different as well
Remove the SLS lines to the rear shocks
Replace the rear sls units with Dodge Dakota REAR shocks..Bilstein makes them in sport level to match the fronts It rides and handles great!
The shock specs are exact in mounting/travel/internal valving rebound and weight requirements..worked for me
SEDAN P/S pump
Hoses from Steering rack are different as well
Remove the SLS lines to the rear shocks
Replace the rear sls units with Dodge Dakota REAR shocks..Bilstein makes them in sport level to match the fronts It rides and handles great!
The shock specs are exact in mounting/travel/internal valving rebound and weight requirements..worked for me
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Mark!
Man, this is not as simple as some people made it out to be on these forums. First off, as you mentioned theres no way of fitting the sedan shock on a wagon. Even if I got all the correct mounting hardware for the top of the shock, the sedan shock is much longer then the wagon SLS shock. I guess thats why you went with the Dakota shock.
Also, the sedan rear spring is longer then that of the wagon's. I installed the H&R cup kit, which is supposed to DUMP the car 2" plus, and using the sedan rear spring in the back, while it physically fits, even with the #1 spring pad it damn near stock high still! It looks funny right now because the front is tucking the tire and the rear has 1.5" or more gap still.
When comparing side by side the H&R spring is about 1" shorther in physical length then the wagon spring, but after install, and switching out the stock #4 pad with #1 pad, is basically dropped the car less then 1". I guess I can still fiddle with the SLS actuator, and if all else fails cut the rear sedan spring a half coil or full. I want to stick with the sedan cup kit spring in the rear instead of wagon springs because eibach, the only ones the make wagon springs are much softer then the H&R cupkit spring and with the 18x11" rear wheel there going on the car I need all the stiffness I can get.
Also, dont want to start a rant here, but why the F@#$ is the K-Mac kit so ridiculously expensive!!! it looks like it should cost $30 MAX! yet these aholes charge $400 just because they can, because they know Mercedes owner will cough up the dough. Definately going with camber arms in the rear instead of the K-Mac kit, just because of principle. I don't mind paying $200 for something that looks like someone took more then 10 minutes to make using $3 worth of material. Gonna go with the OEM eccentric in the front. Also since I get 70% used brand name rubbers (eww.. ) for $40-50 a pop from atlantis tire here in Torrance, it may not be such a big deal.
Anyways, thanks for your help and saving me from destroying my perfectly functional SLS system!
If anyone wants a pair of H&R cup kit rear shocks (obviously for sedan only) send me a PM and I will give it to you for a goodprice!
Man, this is not as simple as some people made it out to be on these forums. First off, as you mentioned theres no way of fitting the sedan shock on a wagon. Even if I got all the correct mounting hardware for the top of the shock, the sedan shock is much longer then the wagon SLS shock. I guess thats why you went with the Dakota shock.
Also, the sedan rear spring is longer then that of the wagon's. I installed the H&R cup kit, which is supposed to DUMP the car 2" plus, and using the sedan rear spring in the back, while it physically fits, even with the #1 spring pad it damn near stock high still! It looks funny right now because the front is tucking the tire and the rear has 1.5" or more gap still.
When comparing side by side the H&R spring is about 1" shorther in physical length then the wagon spring, but after install, and switching out the stock #4 pad with #1 pad, is basically dropped the car less then 1". I guess I can still fiddle with the SLS actuator, and if all else fails cut the rear sedan spring a half coil or full. I want to stick with the sedan cup kit spring in the rear instead of wagon springs because eibach, the only ones the make wagon springs are much softer then the H&R cupkit spring and with the 18x11" rear wheel there going on the car I need all the stiffness I can get.
Also, dont want to start a rant here, but why the F@#$ is the K-Mac kit so ridiculously expensive!!! it looks like it should cost $30 MAX! yet these aholes charge $400 just because they can, because they know Mercedes owner will cough up the dough. Definately going with camber arms in the rear instead of the K-Mac kit, just because of principle. I don't mind paying $200 for something that looks like someone took more then 10 minutes to make using $3 worth of material. Gonna go with the OEM eccentric in the front. Also since I get 70% used brand name rubbers (eww.. ) for $40-50 a pop from atlantis tire here in Torrance, it may not be such a big deal.
Anyways, thanks for your help and saving me from destroying my perfectly functional SLS system!
If anyone wants a pair of H&R cup kit rear shocks (obviously for sedan only) send me a PM and I will give it to you for a goodprice!
#6
I dont really understand why youre making such a meal of lowering a wagon to be honest.
I just used euro E55 wagon springs with no:1 pads and left the SLS alone (just readjusted the link bar).
I now have a wagon with lows, good ride and fully working SLS.
I just used euro E55 wagon springs with no:1 pads and left the SLS alone (just readjusted the link bar).
I now have a wagon with lows, good ride and fully working SLS.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
as, I mentioned, I left the SLS alone. Euro E55 wagon springs aren't exactly a trip to the parts store here in the US. Also wanted something a bit firmer then an OEM ride. So far the H&R cupkit is working out great.
anyways, for thoese who care, I'm posting a diagram (horrible engrisch, I know) I got off the german w210 site for adjusting the rear SLS linkage:
anyways, for thoese who care, I'm posting a diagram (horrible engrisch, I know) I got off the german w210 site for adjusting the rear SLS linkage:
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#10
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2003 S210 3.8L Brabus wagon
[ I want to stick with the sedan cup kit spring in the rear instead of wagon springs because eibach, the only ones the make wagon springs...
H&R makes a kit for the wagons with a 1.5 inch drop to the rear. It uses a progressive rate spring and is the same piece used in the Brabus kit which are made by H&R. The H&R kit can be obtained fom The Tire Rack for around $250.00. Make sure you move the adjuster arm to the (S) hole for sport mode as in the AMG models for the SLS to operate properly when lowered. A drop of more than 1.5 inches risks pushing the dampner piston rods through the casings on hard bounces and those are very expensive to replace.
H&R makes a kit for the wagons with a 1.5 inch drop to the rear. It uses a progressive rate spring and is the same piece used in the Brabus kit which are made by H&R. The H&R kit can be obtained fom The Tire Rack for around $250.00. Make sure you move the adjuster arm to the (S) hole for sport mode as in the AMG models for the SLS to operate properly when lowered. A drop of more than 1.5 inches risks pushing the dampner piston rods through the casings on hard bounces and those are very expensive to replace.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Lowered the rear tonight, Really ghetto style, $8 worth of 2x6 lumber from home depot, haha
At first I maxed the lever out to the top just for kicks. I was real surprised how fast it raised! I saw a youtube video of a BMW's self leveling taking like 30 seconds to raise, on the W210 as soon as I raised the lever the rear of the car shot up like if it was on hydraulics! I guess it is, idnit Literally took about a second! With the H&R sedans springs and with a shaved down #4 pad it had almost 5-6" of wheel gap with the lever raised to to top. Then I lowered the lever all the way and set it at that, so now I have 1 finger gap. I just ordered some #1 spring pads for the rear and will fine tune the sls when I install thinner pads. At least I dont have a rake anymore tho!
edit: yes the boards are nailed together
Before the drop, on my ghetto ramp:
At first I maxed the lever out to the top just for kicks. I was real surprised how fast it raised! I saw a youtube video of a BMW's self leveling taking like 30 seconds to raise, on the W210 as soon as I raised the lever the rear of the car shot up like if it was on hydraulics! I guess it is, idnit Literally took about a second! With the H&R sedans springs and with a shaved down #4 pad it had almost 5-6" of wheel gap with the lever raised to to top. Then I lowered the lever all the way and set it at that, so now I have 1 finger gap. I just ordered some #1 spring pads for the rear and will fine tune the sls when I install thinner pads. At least I dont have a rake anymore tho!
edit: yes the boards are nailed together
Before the drop, on my ghetto ramp:
Last edited by Ungarisch; 10-31-2010 at 02:15 AM.
#12
Parts needed
SEDAN P/S pump
Hoses from Steering rack are different as well
Remove the SLS lines to the rear shocks
Replace the rear sls units with Dodge Dakota REAR shocks..Bilstein makes them in sport level to match the fronts It rides and handles great!
The shock specs are exact in mounting/travel/internal valving rebound and weight requirements..worked for me
SEDAN P/S pump
Hoses from Steering rack are different as well
Remove the SLS lines to the rear shocks
Replace the rear sls units with Dodge Dakota REAR shocks..Bilstein makes them in sport level to match the fronts It rides and handles great!
The shock specs are exact in mounting/travel/internal valving rebound and weight requirements..worked for me
what are these dimensions of Dodge Dakota REAR shocks, I am from europe and I want to find something similar to that shocks.