E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

1999 E320 Blinking Check Engine Light and Severe Loss of Power

Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #1  
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1999 E320 Blinking Check Engine Light and Severe Loss of Power

I scanned the car and these are the codes that there were along with some extra info:
Mode 03: Emission related fault codes

Address 01: 8 Faults Found:
P0301 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


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Freeze Frame Data for address 01
PID02 DTC that caused freeze frame data storage: P0300
PID03 Fuel system 1/2 status: Closed loop, using O2 sensors
... Closed loop, using O2 sensors
PID04 Calculated load value: 48.6 %
PID05 Engine coolant temperature: 81 °C
PID06 Short Term Trim - Bank 1: -6.3 %
PID07 Long Term Trim - Bank 1: 3.1 %
PID08 Short Term Trim - Bank 2: 5.5 %
PID09 Long Term Trim - Bank 2: 12.5 %
PID11 Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 90 kPa abs
PID12 Engine RPM: 3550 /min
PID13 Vehicle speed: 0 km/h


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Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes

Address 01: 1 Fault Found:
P0204 - Injector: Cylinder 4 (N33): Circuit Malfunction
What do you guys think?

Thanks!
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #2  
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2017 S63 AMG (W222)
i think you should take it to a shop. Could be a lot of things, unfortunately... I think its time to let go bro...
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:46 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Nadasive
i think you should take it to a shop. Could be a lot of things, unfortunately... I think its time to let go bro...
I don't mean to be a jerk, but did you look at the codes?

There are 4 misfire codes and 1 injector connector codes. It's not that bad... I just need opinions on where to start.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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You already got a reply on the other forum

Start with a inspection of the cats - since this is the potentially most expensive failure. Have the front cats checked with both a rubber mallet and with a IR thermometer - exit temps on each side should be much higher than entry temps to show cats are functioning.

If the front cats have broken down then that debris can also be blocking the rear cat screens. Rear's normally can be cleaned and recovered, failed front will have to be replaced.

You start from there, then move to the MAF and if MAF requires replacement recommend ONLY genuine Borsch MAF currently around $180.

Do a fuel system cleanup with Stabil Blue ($8 bottle is two applications) and get a new fuel filter (Bosch is $35 online)
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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Is the BAS/ASR light on as well?
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ALLTD
Is the BAS/ASR light on as well?
nope. no other lights are on, besides a light out warning on the dash due to PO installing LED tail lights without resistors...
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