playerrtwo

my e430 is hesitating under WOT -- i just got the car a couple months ago im new to MB.. ive never really gotten on the car and slammed on the pedal because I like to drive like a normal person nowadays. However, once I figured for the joy of it just to mash the gas.. car revved but didnt really seem to go anywhere.. when i took my foot off the pedal and accelerated down to the floor it was just a smooth acceleration..

is there a problem with my injectors/plugs? im not very mechanically savvy and like i said im new to MB so im not sure what it could be.

00 e430 sport 131k -

also looking for an exhaust - or components i would need for a custom exhaust - or a how to on a resonator delete - and would u reccommend gonig X-pipe or H pipe?

SerbNerd

Not too sure what to tell you, any check engine light or maybe other clues?

I finally finished doing spark plugs and oh gosh guys, those cables are impossible to get back on! plus the rear two spark plugs (on cylinders 4 and 8) are a pain but no matter.

Here is a picture of the spark plugs, oil is over them...any ideas on how to proceed? I've do the valve cover gasket and other repairs but not sure what to do next to lower oil consumption.

Strigoi

Valve cover gaskets won't help with that issue. It's probably the valve guide seals or the piston rings are letting oil by.

SerbNerd

Oh jeez. That's going to be quite the job to correct! Not much to do but open er up right?'

997.2

OP - don't rice it out even more..

SerbNerd

997.2...what you mean? I wanna be as far away from ricer as possible!!!!!! AHH

dwatts62@yahoo

Ok....reading all that's here... hoping that MB DOC & others can reply for my need to FIX my e430 4-matic.

To start:
(background) I bought my E430 fall 2010, mileage: 120K, to use for Limo as regular sedan just with Limo plates. I've been using it since then. It takes alot of physical road miles each day between 200 - 400 miles per day.

Right now it has 290,290 miles on it.

PROBLEM: It went into "limp home" mode Friday just after dropping off a client but prior to shutting off engine, it still managed to shift into a 2nd gear and go to 40mph without the "check engine" light. It happened as I was coming to a stop. I took car 1/2 block from client home after client drop-off, restarted car after a minute & got check engine light.Then only limp home mode.

NOTE: just last week, I just changed the Bosch Platinum+4 plugs I had in it last yr which were GREAT for extra mileage(extra 3 MPG), netting me 23 to 24 mpg on hwy. I swapped them at shops request to NKG Platinum plugs & had to change coil #1, which I had swapped ALL coils & plugs last year. It had never had the plugs or coils replaced that I could ever see before I owned it. I dont think previous owner ever changed the fuel filter either.

So, last week,16 New NKG sparkplugs, New #1 coil, & completely CLEANED all of the fuel intake valves. They were black as were all of the tips of the old Bosch Platinum+4 plugs. Could this cause the problem??

I try to go between 93,91,89 octane gas as I can to save a bit on cost as gas in Chicago area, even burbs is VERY pricey at $4.25/gallon for midgrade now, $4.55 for 93 octane.

SO....car @ shop today after leaving it close to shop & swapping to my van & driving van home for night.
ERROR CODES today @ shop are P2602, P2065.

I see from many other blogs & posts that P2602=The voltage supply of the valves is faulty, P2065=Electronic Transmission - ECU (fault stored in component N15/3 - EGS controller, Fuel level sensor "B" circuit).

*note also the car has been JERKING into gear @ about 15 mph vs. smooth transition since I bought the car. It also has bothered me lately & I mentioned 3 wks ago prior to Plug/coil/fuel intakes cleaned ALSO I have a "ticking" noise that sounds like a bird chirping for the past month now. I have added the "best" fuel/fuel injector cleaner possible even using other additives that are supposed to get rid of "pings/knocks" on engine. I even added RISLONE engine fluid to my oil per Qt. bottle instructions per my mechanics suggestion to get better compression, clean rings, close any gaps around rings on valves, etc. I also added slick 50 engine treatment about 3 weeks ago & also added slick 50 gas treatment at same time. All of these didnt get rid of the "chirping" but makes the engine sound smoother at idle. It idles lower now though (which bothers me) at just barely 600 rpms at idle speed, was before at just under 10 rpms.

TODAY - upon inspection of bottom of the car we noticed several things:
A) the front drive shaft "cup" for u-joint had one of the lips on edge broken off and it makes it VERY loose & wabbles, possibly causing the noise & certainly a possible for the JERKING into gear.
B) Also the Rear drive shaft has a "flex disc"/bushing as they are called "W0133-1624233" that has a slight crack in one place and wearing out.

Mechanic said NOT so crucial as the front drive shaft that needs to be replaced & engine codes.

Mechanic said he isnt sure if the "ECU module" is a problem & will check it with current on Monday or if something else. He also wanted to know what was causing the voltage supply problem (P2602).

Per the writings on these blogs of this site it sounds like the problems to fix & noted from this site are :

1) Check the battery (which is less than 6 months old BTW), possible problem with voltage. NOTE: I replaced it when worried about lowered power I noticed, was original 2002 battery!
2)check spark plug wires/coils for any problems
3) make sure GAPS on plugs set to proper! (0.38 for stock, 0.34 for OEM)
4)check for clogged fuel pump
5)see if emissions excess air pump is ok & working properly (probably the original 2002 part also)
6) could be bad gas......change to fresh 93 octane gas.
7)per MB tek: (P2602 code error)= "damaged pin at the electrical connector at the transmission most likely the problem. Make sure they are all locked into the connector"
8) MB doc says: Conductor plate which gives values for the solenoid could be damaged.
($190 part, $1400 labor to fix per blogs here)
9) transmission connector problem - leaking o-rings
10) "reset"/"reflash" the adaptive memory of the ECU's by disconnecting car battery. Change the transmission gear oil [ATF3353 (A0019894503)] ,POSSIBLY change the transfer case oil [001,989 2303]with high level recommended, change transmission filter, Drop the Sump & about 1/2 litre oil will be in it...change oil in it... change fuel filter, then a)turn key to ON position but NOT START position b)hold foot down all way (the click on the end/downshift) for 5 seconds ((note: I do not understand what this means to do??)) c) turn key to the OFF position d)let go of the gas pedal BUT dont take out the key e) might take up to 3 min. for the ECU to restart

AND, if that all doesn't work, it said on another blog reply...."codes possibly tossed into the ECU system if TORQUE CONVERTOR not engaging properly".

SO: I assume #10 and #1, then in order if still nothing fixed, 2,3,4,5,etc.

Comments???


c) BTW YES I also have replaced the upper arm on front right wheel recently & WILL be changing the upper arm & front driver axle soon as the "outer" boot is cracked AGAIN! changed the part just about 15K miles ago. NO that wasn't a "cracked wheel bearing causing the "chirping noise either!

D) The right front axle boot also cracked a bit as well and replaced it about 6 months ago, abt. 30K ago.

I'm on my 2nd full set of tires since I bought car with "original tires" & possibly 3rd set on 2 of them now also. I get abt 42-45K miles on each tire...but fixing the upper arms & both front axles I can then re-adjust the alignment on front end.

I ALSO added the "spacer kits" for vertical alignment on the front and back tires about 8 months ago...it helped alot, as the back tires always on MB from what I'm told lean in at top. Same with fronts. Tires wearing better now but the back right tire was on front right where the upper arm needed to be replaced, and it is cupped bad on inside edge of tire...so will replace it also soon. Last year from June 2011 to June 2012 I spent over $7500 in repairs getting abt 95% of the parts from online as OEM's via PartsGeek.com,autoPartsShop.com,autoPartsWarehouse .com,carpartsDiscount.com,Carstuff.com,DiscountAut oParts.com,and lastly Adsit.com from Indiana....they have most of the OEM parts & some as aftermarket parts saving me HUGE $$ on many of the parts I've replaced.
Note: in early 2012, MB wanted $1800 for the ENTIRE front AXLE assembly from left to right side & said it HAD to be replaced as 1 unit & to do they had to remove engine from car & abt 5.5 hrs labor....WELL NOT TRUE! I got each front side axle for under $100 each by FEQ (mfr), & labor was abt 1.5 hrs each side. I have only had to replace 2 parts on the car with MB parts from them...one was the LOW side fill for AC. Its a HUGE size vs. 3/8" adapter size that is standard. Massive horror stories with the AC system last year but all was fixed.

SO: FROM FRIDAY: I still have an AC problem, YES. AC problem now, doesnt stay COOL & we found out end of last wk before this problem with the P2602 & P2605 code errors that the AC "module" was bad & needs to be replaced after checking for leaks, testing the low/high pressure of system, re"freshing/replacing" the AC fluid that mechanic did but didnt charge me for as it wasnt the problem.
The AC Evaporator Temperature sensor is ok, but in some cases I am told it causes the AC system to not cycle correctly which is the problem I have also. If you put on the AC it gets cold right away but then fades after 5 to 10 minutes on the hwy driving & if I press the ECONOMY mode for 30 seconds & then press back to AC "filter" it works again. I do that many times to keep it cool in car this past week. But supposedly swapping out the AC module will get rid of the problem.

Q: for the ECU modules for Electronic systems do new ones have to be "coded" from the MB codes by shops to make them work per my "cars" specific setup? My mechanic says YES, that he knows people who can do it vs. MB cost...IF we have to go down that road. He doesnt think we have to however. I'm just happy that so far it doesnt sound like my TRANSMISSION has any "gear" problems & no metal shavings were found in the tranny oil which was the last thing done today when shop closed.

As backup plan--- I had also tracked down a Tranny with 75K miles on it in case located in Redding, CA for $1400 w/1 yr warranty. I also if needed was prepared today if he said the tranny was dead to "bid" online on ebay for the 2001 E320 which currently is at $3900 in Chicago, or the other 2001 E430 for $1500 bid price with 4 days left....

So please let me know thoughts.

my email:dwatts62@yahoo.com

THANKS alot everyone!

dwatts62@yahoo

Got the TCM (Transmission Control Module) fixed. Sent it to town 20 miles north of Detroit...by typing in search engine "TCM doctor". They swapped me my TCM w/ my key to program to new unit. Sold me new unit with still the mercedes labels over it. It's brand new. $650 total including shipping & 2 days to get back. Solved my problem for that.

Now just still AC problem...mechanic thinks its the Evaporator or the pipes from the evaporator which are collapsed as my system has no leaks, fans run, high/low side telling him it's one of the 2 as an issue to fix.

SerbNerd

dwatt62@yahoo

I applaud you for all the issues and your determination to get your w210 going strong...I hope to be able to do the same one day!

Do you have any updates on the car? Also how does your car shift at that high of a mileage?

997.2

Oh man. That just broke my heart LOL

Plutoe

You need a barbi bobble head doll for the dash!!