Died While Driving Followed by Crank No Start
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Died While Driving Followed by Crank No Start
2002 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (from this point will be referred to in the feminine voice)
My “Died While Driving” followed by “Crank No Start” Story
Long story, (unfolded over 6-week period) short…
While driving (actually I had just taken my foot from the gas to decelerate (no, not involved in any way)) when without warning she (the engine) shutdown. I tried without success to restart her. Auto hauler came, unsuccessfully tried jump-starting. Had her towed home.
Without any diagnostic equipment scratched my head, did things like turning the lights on (still very bright, no dimming, flickering… (battery not affecting them)) pulled each fuse (from the three fuse boxes) and inspected visually, all intact.
Started reading (internet, all and any MB forum)…kept reading (technical and repair manuals) everything led me to believe I needed a CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Ordered it and had it next afternoon. Installed it…nothing.
Picked a digital multimeter did some probing and exploring again, nothing.
Had a star certified MB technician make a house call with his very pricey suitcase of scanning equipment. Reading the printout of faults and codes, nothing jumped out at him (now scratching his head). He suggested putting the battery on a trickle charger overnight. In the meantime, I had plugs and wires I installed them.
Next morning put battery in and “Well I’ll be damned… “Holy ****…” “WhooFrigginHoo SHE’S ALIVE!”
Skip ahead a week or so, again driving and she died. Rerun first few steps jump-start, towed home, read some more, yadda yadda yadda.
Edit: [I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.]
Purchase cable tracker (to locate a short noted in codes) nothing after two solid weeks. Buy a logic probe, check each fuse and discover the 40 Amp fuse on the K40 relay module (located under the hood on the passenger side in the contained computer component box that points out the battery is under the rear seat) had no power, no ground. I had read (over and over) of the K40 relay module and thought this could be the issue. While in the fuse/ relay box I started probing (how very apropos) wires with the logic probe. In my exploration, I found a push in wire unit was not fully seated within the module. Two of the wire connectors looked as if they had been turned 90 degrees unable to line up with the connector pins. After some careful (and very fortunate) finagling, I seated the unit properly. I checked the 40 Amp fuse again and lo and behold the logic probe light up!
I lowered her from the four jack stands holding her aloft (to trace wires), crossed my fingers, knocked on wood (yes, with crossed fingers, (it is far more effective)) turned the key to position three…
…WhooFrigginHoo‼! SHE’S ALIVE (again, and for now) ‼!
To add to my glee, the missing pixels from the instrument panel clock are no longer missing.
Best wishes,
Frank AKA Schleprock
I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.
My “Died While Driving” followed by “Crank No Start” Story
Long story, (unfolded over 6-week period) short…
While driving (actually I had just taken my foot from the gas to decelerate (no, not involved in any way)) when without warning she (the engine) shutdown. I tried without success to restart her. Auto hauler came, unsuccessfully tried jump-starting. Had her towed home.
Without any diagnostic equipment scratched my head, did things like turning the lights on (still very bright, no dimming, flickering… (battery not affecting them)) pulled each fuse (from the three fuse boxes) and inspected visually, all intact.
Started reading (internet, all and any MB forum)…kept reading (technical and repair manuals) everything led me to believe I needed a CPS (crankshaft position sensor). Ordered it and had it next afternoon. Installed it…nothing.
Picked a digital multimeter did some probing and exploring again, nothing.
Had a star certified MB technician make a house call with his very pricey suitcase of scanning equipment. Reading the printout of faults and codes, nothing jumped out at him (now scratching his head). He suggested putting the battery on a trickle charger overnight. In the meantime, I had plugs and wires I installed them.
Next morning put battery in and “Well I’ll be damned… “Holy ****…” “WhooFrigginHoo SHE’S ALIVE!”
Skip ahead a week or so, again driving and she died. Rerun first few steps jump-start, towed home, read some more, yadda yadda yadda.
Edit: [I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.]
Purchase cable tracker (to locate a short noted in codes) nothing after two solid weeks. Buy a logic probe, check each fuse and discover the 40 Amp fuse on the K40 relay module (located under the hood on the passenger side in the contained computer component box that points out the battery is under the rear seat) had no power, no ground. I had read (over and over) of the K40 relay module and thought this could be the issue. While in the fuse/ relay box I started probing (how very apropos) wires with the logic probe. In my exploration, I found a push in wire unit was not fully seated within the module. Two of the wire connectors looked as if they had been turned 90 degrees unable to line up with the connector pins. After some careful (and very fortunate) finagling, I seated the unit properly. I checked the 40 Amp fuse again and lo and behold the logic probe light up!
I lowered her from the four jack stands holding her aloft (to trace wires), crossed my fingers, knocked on wood (yes, with crossed fingers, (it is far more effective)) turned the key to position three…
…WhooFrigginHoo‼! SHE’S ALIVE (again, and for now) ‼!
To add to my glee, the missing pixels from the instrument panel clock are no longer missing.
Best wishes,
Frank AKA Schleprock
I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.
Last edited by Frank Phillips; Dec 6, 2014 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2012
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I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.
Last edited by Frank Phillips; Dec 6, 2014 at 03:27 PM. Reason: incorrect
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2012
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Yes, I've experienced an oil filled issue (a year or so ago computer components in the passenger side fuse/ relay box all filled) as well. Thankfully it was easily resolved, disconnect, turn upside down let drain, carefully reconnect.
I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.
I Forgot a VERY IMPORTANT DETAIL:
...the 2nd occurrence of "dying while driving" I was getting very low voltage readings from the "live data readings" (with key turned to position 2 or while engine is running pressing the REST button for approximately 8 seconds) through the HVAC display. So I figured (incorrectly) the battery was shot. I spent (wasted) $180.00 on an unnecessary/ unneeded battery.
...unneeded due to "screwy" voltage readings were the same with the new battery, and resolved with correcting the pin-in-module issue.
I wish you the best of luck!
Please let me know what you find out.
I'm positive I'll experience it at some point in time.
Best wishes,
Frank
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