Eibach Springs
#1
Eibach Springs
Good Day everyone
I bought kit of eibach springs and I install it on my W210
actually its lock great especially in the front
but the problem in the rear it dropped to much
so i tried to change the size for the spring rubber
but i think it need more, because i install the biggest size for this rubber
So i make this post to hear from you any suggestions about this issue.
Thanks,,
I bought kit of eibach springs and I install it on my W210
actually its lock great especially in the front
but the problem in the rear it dropped to much
so i tried to change the size for the spring rubber
but i think it need more, because i install the biggest size for this rubber
So i make this post to hear from you any suggestions about this issue.
Thanks,,
#3
Dear,,
Could you put picture to your car
with this spring
Because this what happen to me rear side lower than front.
It come to my mind that the workshop replace the spring, install front spring in the rear and rear one in the front. Just thinking
Could you put picture to your car
with this spring
Because this what happen to me rear side lower than front.
It come to my mind that the workshop replace the spring, install front spring in the rear and rear one in the front. Just thinking
#4
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2001 E430, 2002 ML55
This was how the car sat. It is possible to mess up the springs as the front ones are larger in diameter than the rear BUT the shop should have noticed that the rear install wasn't proper.
Prior I had the stock springs and my front was higher than the rear. My stock pads were 5 on front and 1 in rear...why? I don't know.
Take a look at your pads and I say get lower front pads
#5
Actully I'm using in the front ruber size2
and rear ruber size 4
and still rear lower than front
After I sow your picture I belive that they change the position for spring by mistack.
I hope that I know how to post a picture here, actiactully I tried but not work.
I will contact the workshop and see what happen.
and rear ruber size 4
and still rear lower than front
After I sow your picture I belive that they change the position for spring by mistack.
I hope that I know how to post a picture here, actiactully I tried but not work.
I will contact the workshop and see what happen.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
while you're looking underneath, you may want to verify the part number which
you should be able to see stamped on the spring and compare with the part
numbers identifying which is rear versus front spring.
you should be able to see stamped on the spring and compare with the part
numbers identifying which is rear versus front spring.
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#8
Are you basing you opinion off the wheel arches or the side moldings? The front wheel arch are higher to allow the front tires to clear the wheel well while turning, while the rear wheel arch doesn't have to allow for various angles of the tires. From the image you posted, the side moldings look parallel to the pavement.
#9
Hello,,
What are you saying is right, but what make me confused that the different betwen the front and rear.
However,after i visited the workshop, workshop man said nothing wrong and he chick again .
also, i install extra rubber in the rear, and the car now looks good.
Thanks all,,
What are you saying is right, but what make me confused that the different betwen the front and rear.
However,after i visited the workshop, workshop man said nothing wrong and he chick again .
also, i install extra rubber in the rear, and the car now looks good.
Thanks all,,
Last edited by rban320; 02-25-2015 at 08:42 AM.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Is your car a v6? Did you get springs for a v8?
How long have you had the springs in, have have had enough time to settle?
I would go for #1 pads in the front and #5 in the rear
How long have you had the springs in, have have had enough time to settle?
I would go for #1 pads in the front and #5 in the rear
#12
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Tesla model S
Tough to say, I had a similar but opposite problem - installed eibachs for the W210 (i have a 98 diesel) and the front dropped 2 inches while the rear only dropped 3/4 inch! What I believe we fail to do sometimes is understand why the original spring pads were inserted. My car came with #3 in front and #1 in rear - those were used at the factory for a reason. My front is heavier and or it tends to go nose down for whatever reason so the factory used 3 front and 1 rear to correct and make car level. Well here I come along 15 yrs later and place a #2 front pad and #3 in the rear - I didn't use the same logic as the factory did and I should have. At the end of the day all you can do is go #1 front #4 rear and see what you've got. There is a thread where the guy had same issue as you, so he used another spring pad to raise further up, like a #1 plus the #4 pad together. I'm not endorsing that but telling you what someone else did. Good luck man
#13
I'm going to get into this sooner than later on my 99 E300. Seems the best take away is to perhaps have a stash of various spring pads before hand so that you can play around with getting it to sit how you'd like....
#14
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Tesla model S
Yes, it seems like extra money but having all the pads there is a must if you want to finish the job in the same day. you can always return the unused pads. Also look at the pads that are installed now, that will tell you something as well. If you have a #4 in rear and #1 in front and its now level, well there you go. Placing 1's all the way around may not look so great, again many variables are going on at that point, new lowering springs, maybe new shocks, etc. so yes, having different size pads there is the way to go.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
you know you're chasing clouds, don't you? upon installation, you may try to
get the right 'look' but the actual ride height will continue to change, incrementally,
over weeks and months, depending on the terrain you're driving in. some folks
believe it takes time, but in fact, it really requires spring motion. there is a
difference between smooth highway driving for 30 days versus poorly paved
residential streets, railroad crossings, potholes etc during that same time.
in reality, you may be swapping out the springs depending on settling rate
every 6-12 months. you can also try to get an idea from other owners who
have used that particular model spring(s) how much they settled and down to
their final height. you buy the spring pad (extrapolating) based on that and
leave it at that. in doing so, it may ride high for some months before settling
to the predicted height
i didn't sell my spring removal tool because i knew i would be chasing that
final ride height (swapping pads) for some time. yeah, i have a small box
of pads as a result. fortunately, they're only about $10-25 each
get the right 'look' but the actual ride height will continue to change, incrementally,
over weeks and months, depending on the terrain you're driving in. some folks
believe it takes time, but in fact, it really requires spring motion. there is a
difference between smooth highway driving for 30 days versus poorly paved
residential streets, railroad crossings, potholes etc during that same time.
in reality, you may be swapping out the springs depending on settling rate
every 6-12 months. you can also try to get an idea from other owners who
have used that particular model spring(s) how much they settled and down to
their final height. you buy the spring pad (extrapolating) based on that and
leave it at that. in doing so, it may ride high for some months before settling
to the predicted height
i didn't sell my spring removal tool because i knew i would be chasing that
final ride height (swapping pads) for some time. yeah, i have a small box
of pads as a result. fortunately, they're only about $10-25 each
#16
You are absolutely right.
Over the time and daily use it will change also.
Actually, i just keep it as its,
now its very good, after i chose the right size of pads.
However, its good idea to keep the old part like used spring and pads if its in acceptable condition, for later use or selling.
Thanks all for you participation, that benefit me a lot.
Over the time and daily use it will change also.
Actually, i just keep it as its,
now its very good, after i chose the right size of pads.
However, its good idea to keep the old part like used spring and pads if its in acceptable condition, for later use or selling.
Thanks all for you participation, that benefit me a lot.
Last edited by rban320; 03-03-2015 at 12:41 AM.
#17
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Tesla model S
Are you sure you didn't leave the original pads up in the spring perch, and then place new pads on the eibachs and installed in the front, there by increasing the front height too much by having two pads on top of one another? Don't laugh, I did that two weeks ago while working with a friend. We were getting a lot of suspension work done, busting it out and I believe he took the rear OE springs out, the original rear pads stayed in the spring perch and didn't come out with the spring. He didn't know and didn't notice, neither did I. Hours later were putting everything back together and I place a #2 rear pad on the rear eibach springs and place them in the perch and close up the lower control arm with a jack. Put the car down and the rear was jacked way up? - crazy things can and do happen.
Did someone already mention you might have got the fronts and rears mixed up? Eibachs for the W210 are 2536.001 VA - front. 2536.002 HA rear. Your springs should have those letters on them - Good luck man...
Did someone already mention you might have got the fronts and rears mixed up? Eibachs for the W210 are 2536.001 VA - front. 2536.002 HA rear. Your springs should have those letters on them - Good luck man...