w210 engine removal - '99 e55
03-07-2015, 10:03 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 28
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'11 C63 4dr p30
w210 engine removal - '99 e55
I'm just about to remove the motor/trans from my scrap e55. Does anyone know of any step by step DIY writeups of the removal process.
I will be using a 2post hoist, and have an engine hoist.
I don't mind hacking up the e55 a bit, but prefer to make it as clean a removal as possible.
Any help, much appreciated!
I will be using a 2post hoist, and have an engine hoist.
I don't mind hacking up the e55 a bit, but prefer to make it as clean a removal as possible.
Any help, much appreciated!
03-07-2015, 12:33 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 F-350, 1999 E55 AMG, AMG Orphans Club International Member #118
Not sure about the step by step DIY, but having worked in an engine shop for six years, I have some input.
-Do Not make it a hack job
-Do everything from the top side first, including draining the A/F, and attach your chain
-Raise the car, do everything on the bottom side
-Personally, I prefer to pull engine first then drop transmission, but that's up to you
-While the engine is on the hoist, drain the oil, knock out the frost plugs or pull the drain plugs on the water jacket.
-If you aren't going to disassemble to rebuild, cover/protect air intake
-General Notes: remove as units the A/C, alternator, P/S pump and leave in car. (Most times, there is room to just lay these items aside.) Leave wiring harness in car. Don't cut hoses, wires, etc. See note #1.
-Do Not make it a hack job
-Do everything from the top side first, including draining the A/F, and attach your chain
-Raise the car, do everything on the bottom side
-Personally, I prefer to pull engine first then drop transmission, but that's up to you
-While the engine is on the hoist, drain the oil, knock out the frost plugs or pull the drain plugs on the water jacket.
-If you aren't going to disassemble to rebuild, cover/protect air intake
-General Notes: remove as units the A/C, alternator, P/S pump and leave in car. (Most times, there is room to just lay these items aside.) Leave wiring harness in car. Don't cut hoses, wires, etc. See note #1.
03-07-2015, 04:57 PM
#3
Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 F-350, 1999 E55 AMG, AMG Orphans Club International Member #118
Thinking further: it's tough to give a step by step for removal. But this is generally how it went. If you can, run it up to temp. Yes, it may be hot for awhile but by the time you get to the hot parts they should be relatively cool. Open the drain **** and get the coolant flowing before the thermostat closes. Makes for easier flow. While it's draining, remove the fan and shroud, you may have to move the upper rad hose. This gives you more room to remove the belt, alternator, p/s pump, a/c compressor. About this time, the rad should be just about empty. Close the drain **** and remove the lower rad hose from the engine (also any other hoses at the front). Tie it up in case there is still enough coolant to drip everywhere. Remove the radiator now, so the engine doesn't put a big hole in it. Look at the top of your engine. There's electrical harnesses and vacuum lines and linkages. Whatever is on top, comes off first. If your wiring harness is on top, disconnect at end points, ie, sensors, grounds, positive on alt.. Keep it whole and fold it over to the side. Do the same with the vacuum lines and anything else laying up there. Work your way from front to back. When you get everything disconnected and laid aside, if you are going to pull tranny and engine separate, reach behind at the bell housing and disconnect any bell bolts you can reach and watch for ground cables. You should be able to get at least the top two bell bolts, maybe four, hard to say. If you think you are finished the top side, start at either front corner of the engine and carefully look around the perimeter of the engine. Your looking for any thing missed earlier. If you are satisfied everything is disconnected, find a place for your chain. Each manufacturer is different, so look to see what they gave you. It could be just a threaded hole in the head or it could be an actual lifting eye. If you use the bolt holes in the heads, they should mirror each other. The front right should match the rear left or vice versa. Put your chain on now. If the hood is off or lifted out of the way, your chain can be a little longer than if you need to keep your hoist arm closer to the engine.
Underneath, work from front to back. Motor mounts, starter, exhaust at flanges (not heads), bell housing bolts, and torque converter bolts. (If you pull both engine and tranny together, ignore the t/c bolts and just keep working back). All mounts and crossmembers on the tranny should be separated, along with the driveshaft and associated parts and linkages.
One of the main concerns is to make sure you have everything that is trying to hold it in place removed. Once it's all undone, it should come easy. You may have to pry here and there to convince it to go, but you shouldn't have to force it. If it needs that kind of force, you've probably missed something.
Go slow and methodical and you shouldn't have any problems.
Underneath, work from front to back. Motor mounts, starter, exhaust at flanges (not heads), bell housing bolts, and torque converter bolts. (If you pull both engine and tranny together, ignore the t/c bolts and just keep working back). All mounts and crossmembers on the tranny should be separated, along with the driveshaft and associated parts and linkages.
One of the main concerns is to make sure you have everything that is trying to hold it in place removed. Once it's all undone, it should come easy. You may have to pry here and there to convince it to go, but you shouldn't have to force it. If it needs that kind of force, you've probably missed something.
Go slow and methodical and you shouldn't have any problems.
03-07-2015, 05:39 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 28
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'11 C63 4dr p30
Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. The motor/trans is out now. Next steps are to get it sorted, cleaned and installed in the c43 wagon!
Thinking further: it's tough to give a step by step for removal. But this is generally how it went. If you can, run it up to temp. Yes, it may be hot for awhile but by the time you get to the hot parts they should be relatively cool. Open the drain **** and get the coolant flowing before the thermostat closes. Makes for easier flow. While it's draining, remove the fan and shroud, you may have to move the upper rad hose. This gives you more room to remove the belt, alternator, p/s pump, a/c compressor. About this time, the rad should be just about empty. Close the drain **** and remove the lower rad hose from the engine (also any other hoses at the front). Tie it up in case there is still enough coolant to drip everywhere. Remove the radiator now, so the engine doesn't put a big hole in it. Look at the top of your engine. There's electrical harnesses and vacuum lines and linkages. Whatever is on top, comes off first. If your wiring harness is on top, disconnect at end points, ie, sensors, grounds, positive on alt.. Keep it whole and fold it over to the side. Do the same with the vacuum lines and anything else laying up there. Work your way from front to back. When you get everything disconnected and laid aside, if you are going to pull tranny and engine separate, reach behind at the bell housing and disconnect any bell bolts you can reach and watch for ground cables. You should be able to get at least the top two bell bolts, maybe four, hard to say. If you think you are finished the top side, start at either front corner of the engine and carefully look around the perimeter of the engine. Your looking for any thing missed earlier. If you are satisfied everything is disconnected, find a place for your chain. Each manufacturer is different, so look to see what they gave you. It could be just a threaded hole in the head or it could be an actual lifting eye. If you use the bolt holes in the heads, they should mirror each other. The front right should match the rear left or vice versa. Put your chain on now. If the hood is off or lifted out of the way, your chain can be a little longer than if you need to keep your hoist arm closer to the engine.
Underneath, work from front to back. Motor mounts, starter, exhaust at flanges (not heads), bell housing bolts, and torque converter bolts. (If you pull both engine and tranny together, ignore the t/c bolts and just keep working back). All mounts and crossmembers on the tranny should be separated, along with the driveshaft and associated parts and linkages.
One of the main concerns is to make sure you have everything that is trying to hold it in place removed. Once it's all undone, it should come easy. You may have to pry here and there to convince it to go, but you shouldn't have to force it. If it needs that kind of force, you've probably missed something.
Go slow and methodical and you shouldn't have any problems.
Underneath, work from front to back. Motor mounts, starter, exhaust at flanges (not heads), bell housing bolts, and torque converter bolts. (If you pull both engine and tranny together, ignore the t/c bolts and just keep working back). All mounts and crossmembers on the tranny should be separated, along with the driveshaft and associated parts and linkages.
One of the main concerns is to make sure you have everything that is trying to hold it in place removed. Once it's all undone, it should come easy. You may have to pry here and there to convince it to go, but you shouldn't have to force it. If it needs that kind of force, you've probably missed something.
Go slow and methodical and you shouldn't have any problems.
