E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Brake Bleeding Questions

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Old 12-26-2015, 04:43 AM
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2001 E 320
Brake Bleeding Questions

I apologize ahead of time if my questions have been covered. I looked at the stickies and search and couldn't find exact answers. I am way overdue for a brake bleeding. This is the first time I'm doing it myself (power bleeder) and I have a few points I'm not clear on.

1) I have an '01 W210 and I'm not sure if it has the SBC system. I read that its quite complicated to do the flush on these systems and is dangerous as it could cause bodily injury. From what I found these were on the w211 E320 correct?

2) I am looking at the motive system and was wondering if the regular plastic cap Euro system is good or if the black label (with the aluminum cap) is better/worse. I don't care about the extra $20 or so dollars, I just want to buy the better functioning system the first time.

3) I'm planning on using Pentosin DOT 4 which is supposed to be OEM. I've that that MB brand fluid is spongy/weak right after the bleed and takes time for the brake peddle to stiffen up. Is this true and could I expect to have this with the Pentosin fluid?

Thanks ahead of time for any help, its greatly appreciated. If anyone has any tips to offer, I'd gladly take it as well.

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Old 12-26-2015, 08:43 AM
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CL500 216
A 210 does not have SBC so just normal brakes, no need to flush as the new fluid will push the old out, and yes dot4 is just fine. Do place a block under the brake pedal so that the pedal does not go to the floor when pumping as a ridge could have formed in the master cylinder and damage the piston seals.

Using a pump this does not apply.
Old 12-27-2015, 03:01 PM
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2001 E 320
Originally Posted by Television
A 210 does not have SBC so just normal brakes, no need to flush as the new fluid will push the old out, and yes dot4 is just fine. Do place a block under the brake pedal so that the pedal does not go to the floor when pumping as a ridge could have formed in the master cylinder and damage the piston seals.

Using a pump this does not apply.
Thanks for the reply. You say place a block under the pedal with a pump, are you talking about bleeding by pumping the brake pedal method or pump as in pumping the power bleeder?
Old 12-28-2015, 05:01 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Doing flush without SD you will have some old fluid trap in ABS system, but most owners don't worry about it.
I build pressure bleeding system for $2 worth of junk yard pars.
BMW do have caps with hole in it for a sensor, where 1/8" hose fits with no adapters.
I had spare tire hose from old VW, but you can use one from "Fix a flat" bottle as well.
Suck old fluid from the reservoir, top it off with new fluid, put the pressure cap on it and connect the hose to spare tire at 35psi. Then you can open the bleeder at the wheel and watch the fluid go.
The reservoir has about 4 times bigger capacity than the system, so you can do basic flush just with it, or do 2 wheels at the time and refill reservoir.
Old 12-29-2015, 10:54 AM
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1999 E300TD
Originally Posted by kajtek1
Doing flush without SD you will have some old fluid trap in ABS system, but most owners don't worry about it.
I build pressure bleeding system for $2 worth of junk yard pars.
BMW do have caps with hole in it for a sensor, where 1/8" hose fits with no adapters.
I had spare tire hose from old VW, but you can use one from "Fix a flat" bottle as well.
Suck old fluid from the reservoir, top it off with new fluid, put the pressure cap on it and connect the hose to spare tire at 35psi. Then you can open the bleeder at the wheel and watch the fluid go.
The reservoir has about 4 times bigger capacity than the system, so you can do basic flush just with it, or do 2 wheels at the time and refill reservoir.

Astounding claims

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