Problemwith my AC
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2000 E320 Sedan
Problemwith my AC
I have a 2000 E320. Recently it has developed a problem with the AC venting system. Perhaps 2 problems.
The main issue is that, while the AC is on I get cool temperature out of the right side vents but hot air on the left side, it does have a dual system.
Any one out there have a similar problem or know what the problem is and how to solve it?
The main issue is that, while the AC is on I get cool temperature out of the right side vents but hot air on the left side, it does have a dual system.
Any one out there have a similar problem or know what the problem is and how to solve it?
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Search the forum or youtube how to aces the sensor reading on climatronic.
Than read the sensors early in the morning and then after restarting the car on hot afternoon and post the numbers here.
Than read the sensors early in the morning and then after restarting the car on hot afternoon and post the numbers here.
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A gaggle of MB's
Monty - so that you know - your symptom is common to W210 aircon system that is low on refrigerant.
Frankly - Plutoe's advice is quite sound on this one - any competent auto aircon shop that has the right "machine" can do the evac/check/refill - you do not need a Mercedes specialist.
The machine vacuums out the "old" refrigerant - holds the system at vacuum for 5 to 7 minutes to check for any major system leaks - if the system holds vacuum then the machine refills the correct amount of refrigerant by weight.
We have had many cases where a owner does not have aircon experience - and using retail-store "charge kits" - can easily overfill with those kits - which can give you bigger problems than what you have now.
Keep the beat !
Frankly - Plutoe's advice is quite sound on this one - any competent auto aircon shop that has the right "machine" can do the evac/check/refill - you do not need a Mercedes specialist.
The machine vacuums out the "old" refrigerant - holds the system at vacuum for 5 to 7 minutes to check for any major system leaks - if the system holds vacuum then the machine refills the correct amount of refrigerant by weight.
We have had many cases where a owner does not have aircon experience - and using retail-store "charge kits" - can easily overfill with those kits - which can give you bigger problems than what you have now.
Keep the beat !
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
AC service, especially on W210 where you can read sensors is one of the easiest DIY there is.
You can do the service with about $10 of tools and 2 cans of r134 cost less than $20.
There is no way you can overcharge the system with 2 cans and even so, the system has high-pressure switch , so nothing will happen.
Obviously when you have a leak that will drain the system in few days, that will make things more complicated, but still about 3 difficulty on 10 scale.
The car experience help me to repair my $7,000 refrigerator.
My jaw drop when I found it is running on the same r134 and I could use the same gauges. Procedure is a bit different, but if you complain how much automotive shop charge to tell you "you have a leak" > try to make house call with refrigeration technician.
You can do the service with about $10 of tools and 2 cans of r134 cost less than $20.
There is no way you can overcharge the system with 2 cans and even so, the system has high-pressure switch , so nothing will happen.
Obviously when you have a leak that will drain the system in few days, that will make things more complicated, but still about 3 difficulty on 10 scale.
The car experience help me to repair my $7,000 refrigerator.
My jaw drop when I found it is running on the same r134 and I could use the same gauges. Procedure is a bit different, but if you complain how much automotive shop charge to tell you "you have a leak" > try to make house call with refrigeration technician.
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Frankly, I am off the "school" with W210 that evac does a real great job to clear out the "old" refridgerant/junk/incl water - and fresh/full refill which is by "weight" (ambient temperature adjusted - is the rock solid way to get your system back 100%.
Frankly - I do evac/fill every 3-4 years on each of my cars - when I have cabin filters changed as well - and Einszett Climate Kleaner is my other friend:
https://www.amazon.com/einszett-9611.../dp/B0002Z2MKO
Frankly - I do evac/fill every 3-4 years on each of my cars - when I have cabin filters changed as well - and Einszett Climate Kleaner is my other friend:
https://www.amazon.com/einszett-9611.../dp/B0002Z2MKO
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Refrigerant doesn't age and doesn't wear out.
If you do it with recycling machine like you are saying you do - your old refrigerant is put back in the system. There is no water in it, unless you introduced it in the process.
The "junk" aka metal shavings and old oi are in the drier, so unless you replace the drier, you still have the old junk sitting there.
Meaning you spend your money for nothing, while you are bringing the risk that something gets screw up on well working system.
I had 15 years old AC on car with 250k miles that never was vacuumed in its life. Still was freezing my elbows in 114F heat.
If you do it with recycling machine like you are saying you do - your old refrigerant is put back in the system. There is no water in it, unless you introduced it in the process.
The "junk" aka metal shavings and old oi are in the drier, so unless you replace the drier, you still have the old junk sitting there.
Meaning you spend your money for nothing, while you are bringing the risk that something gets screw up on well working system.
I had 15 years old AC on car with 250k miles that never was vacuumed in its life. Still was freezing my elbows in 114F heat.
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A gaggle of MB's
Now that's actually kindof funny... the question becomes one if air/moisture entering the system .. seals, connectors, all the normal stuff..the driers have a "life limited" capacity to absorb that moisture - and when when moisture does enter then system over time - and when the drier no longer absorbs moisture...the moisture will mix and react with the either R12 or R134 to create acids...which in turn those acids within the system will not only accelerate breakdown of rubber/soft o-rings adding more air/moisture, react with the metals inside the system causing debris and sludge to accumulate in low points at both condenser and evaporator... and high humidity locales (ie Australia Gold Coast, certain parts of the Middle East are even worse) ..so, in one nutshell... for me a $80 evac and fill every 3-4 years is frankly prudent, in my case where last count they are nine MB's in the "herd".... including a W124 (cabriolet) which was a notable model for evap failures, all back moisture/acid due to poor design of system connectors.
With the W210, on the original design, lead to a redesign/update of both the original drier and original drier hose which was found earlier on, starting with those higher humidity locales, to be a "weak link" in the original AC - which for me have already been changed out, again preemptively.
I know W210 owners who have 200K+ miles on their tranny, with original fluid just "topped off" when required - under the direction of old/old school indie mechanics - just because those 3-4 guys are OK doesn't mean I feel "lucky" and I do prudent tranny service as well - on that if I recall correctly K1 you do too.
Some say tomato.. some say tomahto.. all to the good buddy..
With the W210, on the original design, lead to a redesign/update of both the original drier and original drier hose which was found earlier on, starting with those higher humidity locales, to be a "weak link" in the original AC - which for me have already been changed out, again preemptively.
I know W210 owners who have 200K+ miles on their tranny, with original fluid just "topped off" when required - under the direction of old/old school indie mechanics - just because those 3-4 guys are OK doesn't mean I feel "lucky" and I do prudent tranny service as well - on that if I recall correctly K1 you do too.
Some say tomato.. some say tomahto.. all to the good buddy..
MBWorld Fanatic!
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Posts: 9,225
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
"Drier" in automotive system is misleading description. It has no drying media in it and main purpose is to collect debris and excess oil. It is not cleanable and that is why with each bigger repair you need to replace it.
As I mention the refrigerator - at latest stage I replaced compressor on it and it come with drier/filter, what is just thicker pipe on the line.
Out of curiosity I cut the old one and it was filled with chemical granules.
But big refrigerator works with about 5 oz of R134 that goes down to negative F, so principals are bit different.
Still there is no way in automotive system moisture will penetrate the seals against the pressure.
Lot of MB owners do "Preemptive" repairs, throwing away parts at 20-40% of their usable life. Nothing wrong with it if it makes them feel better.
Their time, their money.
As I mention the refrigerator - at latest stage I replaced compressor on it and it come with drier/filter, what is just thicker pipe on the line.
Out of curiosity I cut the old one and it was filled with chemical granules.
But big refrigerator works with about 5 oz of R134 that goes down to negative F, so principals are bit different.
Still there is no way in automotive system moisture will penetrate the seals against the pressure.
Lot of MB owners do "Preemptive" repairs, throwing away parts at 20-40% of their usable life. Nothing wrong with it if it makes them feel better.
Their time, their money.
Last edited by kajtek1; Jul 15, 2016 at 11:13 AM.
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 177
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From: Houston
1999 e320 ,2006 AMG S55
my e320 has the same exact issue i put some more refrigerant in it and then it works for around a month then goes back to right side blowing cool and left side blowing hot.
Now the cars a/c works 90% of the time. sometimes if the air is not cold i turn off the car and turn it right back on and then boom a/c kicks back in. seems like the harder i drive the faster it cools down.
Now the cars a/c works 90% of the time. sometimes if the air is not cold i turn off the car and turn it right back on and then boom a/c kicks back in. seems like the harder i drive the faster it cools down.
