W210 lower control arm replacement procedure
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
2001 E55
W210 lower control arm replacement procedure
I just replaced my front lower control arms and ball joints on my 2001 E55. The clunk I was having on the front right was finally gone then two weeks later back again as bad as ever!
Not sure what I did that could have caused the clunk to come back? Btw I also had the alignment done at the dealer post me installing the LCA and Ball joints.
I'm going to jack up the car and tighten everything down again and do a visual tomorrow. Does anyone have torque specs for LCAs and Ball Joints?
I did read something regarding loading the LCAs prior to tightening the bolts but it was vague, is this true? I did not do that, how can I do it? Put a jack under the LCA until car raises off jack stands then tighten?
Thank you for any help and insight!
Not sure what I did that could have caused the clunk to come back? Btw I also had the alignment done at the dealer post me installing the LCA and Ball joints.
I'm going to jack up the car and tighten everything down again and do a visual tomorrow. Does anyone have torque specs for LCAs and Ball Joints?
I did read something regarding loading the LCAs prior to tightening the bolts but it was vague, is this true? I did not do that, how can I do it? Put a jack under the LCA until car raises off jack stands then tighten?
Thank you for any help and insight!
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 36
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Yes, some bushings need to be loaded before tightening. The reason is that there's no rotating part inside and the bushing allows only this much up/down movement in the suspension. So when you torque it with the suspension unloaded, it travels up when you lower the car, then travels up still more when you drive around, exceeding the bushings limit and damaging it. This might be what happened.
I personally jack up the car using the factory jack point, since I don't like stressing the differential, then put a jack stand under the control arm and lower the car. You can do it your way too, but a jack is bulky and might be in the way. Also don't get any part of your body under the control arm. If it slips and shoots down, you're going to have a super fun time
I personally jack up the car using the factory jack point, since I don't like stressing the differential, then put a jack stand under the control arm and lower the car. You can do it your way too, but a jack is bulky and might be in the way. Also don't get any part of your body under the control arm. If it slips and shoots down, you're going to have a super fun time
Last edited by shadenfroh; Jan 14, 2017 at 03:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
2001 E55
Ok so I loosened both control arms, pre loaded them per the above and tighter everything back. Further, I ended up replacing the upper control arm as well and still have the clunk and loose front right knocking going on!
At this point I have replaced the sway bar, upper and lower control arms, ball joints, rotors/brakes, wheel bearings, and springs (vogtlan). The clunk is still there and only went away for a couple of weeks after I replaced the lower control arm... so, I think there is only a couple of things left... defective bushings in control arm or fact that I did not preload caused bushings in lower control arm to become damaged? Visually they look great...should I just order another control arm?
At this point I have replaced the sway bar, upper and lower control arms, ball joints, rotors/brakes, wheel bearings, and springs (vogtlan). The clunk is still there and only went away for a couple of weeks after I replaced the lower control arm... so, I think there is only a couple of things left... defective bushings in control arm or fact that I did not preload caused bushings in lower control arm to become damaged? Visually they look great...should I just order another control arm?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 36
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Did you replace all these parts at one go or just the lower control arm + ball joint first? If you replaced just the arm, had the clunking go away, only to return after a short while, I'd guess that the bushing has failed because you didn't preload the suspension.
Can't you get just the bushings instead of the whole arm?
Can't you get just the bushings instead of the whole arm?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
2001 E55
Yes the only thing that was replaced when clunk went away and came back was the control arm bushing.
The job was such a PIA that I'm upset that I have to do it again and a little worried that maybe it won't fix the issue... but since it went away and then came back it has to be the bushings!
The only thing that has not been changed are the shocks, could they ever cause a knock?
Thanks for your help,
Rodney
The job was such a PIA that I'm upset that I have to do it again and a little worried that maybe it won't fix the issue... but since it went away and then came back it has to be the bushings!
The only thing that has not been changed are the shocks, could they ever cause a knock?
Thanks for your help,
Rodney
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 279
Likes: 36
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Yes. But they are extremely easy to remove and inspect. Hell, you can even run it around the block with shocks off if you really want to be sure. It'd be more of a sail than a drive, but anyway.
Like you said - you already fixed your issue once
Like you said - you already fixed your issue once
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 18
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From: Fredericksburg, Virginia
2000 E320 AWD
Whenever you have alignment done, part of any shop's process is checking for loose or worn out components (if only for their own profit advantage). Apparently all was OK. Then, you replaced all those other parts! So maybe the source of the clunk is elsewhere.
What made you originally believe that the LCAs and BJs needed replacing?
Can you also feel the clunk thru the steering wheel?
Does it happen on an upward bounce or a rebound?
Can you replicate it, at will, on a certain stretch of road surface?
At what speed does it happen?
Get a pry bar or big screwdriver and search for any motions in the suspension or steering that should not exist. If its there you'll find it. Keep us posted.
What made you originally believe that the LCAs and BJs needed replacing?
Can you also feel the clunk thru the steering wheel?
Does it happen on an upward bounce or a rebound?
Can you replicate it, at will, on a certain stretch of road surface?
At what speed does it happen?
Get a pry bar or big screwdriver and search for any motions in the suspension or steering that should not exist. If its there you'll find it. Keep us posted.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
2001 E55
Ok, I decided to go ahead and replace the control arm again. And of course the knocking is gone! I installed it 100% correctly this time! I'm still worried that the knock might come back. So, I'm going to wait a few weeks before I get the car aligned again.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
2001 E55
It freaking came back! What is going on? Is it possible that I received defective lower control arms? I am very confident that I completed this procedure correctly, I did tons of research! The driver side has been fine. It is the passenger side. Why does it go away and then come back after a month? I need help!
Member
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 179
Likes: 45
2000 E320
Tolls or tools? I can't or don't know what tolls you're referring to, but if tools, you just need basic hand tools - couple more special tool like ball joint separator.. However, you're working on lower arm, so be very careful around spring. And since you need to ask what tools are needed, I strongly recommend take it to mechanic. Don't take it to just any mechanic, take it to shop that do Mercedes.
What you watch on youtube and real world repair is completely different. Also, please do replace those locking nuts. It's a cheap insurance. Also, for whatever reason you need to replace, either the lower control arm itself or components that comes with it, I recommend replacing as pair. That is, if you going to replace one side. replace other side as well because it's not too far behind on wear and tear.
What you watch on youtube and real world repair is completely different. Also, please do replace those locking nuts. It's a cheap insurance. Also, for whatever reason you need to replace, either the lower control arm itself or components that comes with it, I recommend replacing as pair. That is, if you going to replace one side. replace other side as well because it's not too far behind on wear and tear.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2025
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2012 GL350
Tolls or tools? I can't or don't know what tolls you're referring to, but if tools, you just need basic hand tools - couple more special tool like ball joint separator.. However, you're working on lower arm, so be very careful around spring. And since you need to ask what tools are needed, I strongly recommend take it to mechanic. Don't take it to just any mechanic, take it to shop that do Mercedes.
What you watch on youtube and real world repair is completely different. Also, please do replace those locking nuts. It's a cheap insurance. Also, for whatever reason you need to replace, either the lower control arm itself or components that comes with it, I recommend replacing as pair. That is, if you going to replace one side. replace other side as well because it's not too far behind on wear and tear.
What you watch on youtube and real world repair is completely different. Also, please do replace those locking nuts. It's a cheap insurance. Also, for whatever reason you need to replace, either the lower control arm itself or components that comes with it, I recommend replacing as pair. That is, if you going to replace one side. replace other side as well because it's not too far behind on wear and tear.
