ESP Problem?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
ESP Problem?
Hello,
I have a new to me 2002 E430 with 85K miles. The car ran great during the test drive and I bought. When I picked it up, the ABS, BAS and ESP warnings went off less than 1 mile after I started. Now they come on almost immediately after driving the car. Yesterday I noticed something strange. If I turn OFF the ESP when I start the car, the BAS and ABS lights do not come on. As long as ESP is off all is well. If I turn ESP ON, after 30 seconds the ! will flash and then ABS, BAS, and ESP will all fail. If I turn the car off, restart it, and turn off ESP, the other systems work fine.
Any ideas?
Before this I assumed that a wheel speed sensor had gone bad. However, that should prevent ABS and BAS from working. I have tested the ABS function and it does work.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Barry
I have a new to me 2002 E430 with 85K miles. The car ran great during the test drive and I bought. When I picked it up, the ABS, BAS and ESP warnings went off less than 1 mile after I started. Now they come on almost immediately after driving the car. Yesterday I noticed something strange. If I turn OFF the ESP when I start the car, the BAS and ABS lights do not come on. As long as ESP is off all is well. If I turn ESP ON, after 30 seconds the ! will flash and then ABS, BAS, and ESP will all fail. If I turn the car off, restart it, and turn off ESP, the other systems work fine.
Any ideas?
Before this I assumed that a wheel speed sensor had gone bad. However, that should prevent ABS and BAS from working. I have tested the ABS function and it does work.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Barry
#2
Super Member
Very common failure on that car is the Brake light switch on the brake pedal. If the lights are coming on when starting the car, its not just going to go away or fix itself. I suggest finding someone local to scan the car so that you aren't just throwing parts at it.
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You should be able to test brake switch without scanner.
There is procedure somewhere, but from what I remember -press the pedal with ignition on and observe 3rd light coming on.
The switch has dual circuits and when first activates the taillights, the 2nd gives signal to computer and 3rd light.
There is procedure somewhere, but from what I remember -press the pedal with ignition on and observe 3rd light coming on.
The switch has dual circuits and when first activates the taillights, the 2nd gives signal to computer and 3rd light.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hey,
A brief update. It snowed today. When I took the car for a short drive I turned off the ESP. Going a corner I felt the car loose traction and slip a little. The ! warning light flashed to show me that I was starting to slide. Then I remembered that in dry conditions, if I turn the ESP on, the ! starts to flash and then the ABS ESP and BAS warnings come on. That leads me to believe that the ESP control box is not working.
I don't think it's the brake switch because if I turn off ESP I don't get any warning lights. However who know what's really going on.
I will take your advice and read the codes so I don't just start swapping parts. The local MB dealer charges $!50 for a diagnostic test. I will see if my favorite local shop has the special MB reader. Or I might just purchase the Carsoft 7.4 tool ($80 on Amazon).
Thanks and I will update this as I learn more.
Barry
A brief update. It snowed today. When I took the car for a short drive I turned off the ESP. Going a corner I felt the car loose traction and slip a little. The ! warning light flashed to show me that I was starting to slide. Then I remembered that in dry conditions, if I turn the ESP on, the ! starts to flash and then the ABS ESP and BAS warnings come on. That leads me to believe that the ESP control box is not working.
I don't think it's the brake switch because if I turn off ESP I don't get any warning lights. However who know what's really going on.
I will take your advice and read the codes so I don't just start swapping parts. The local MB dealer charges $!50 for a diagnostic test. I will see if my favorite local shop has the special MB reader. Or I might just purchase the Carsoft 7.4 tool ($80 on Amazon).
Thanks and I will update this as I learn more.
Barry
#5
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Did you read how to troubleshoot the switch in just seconds without scanner?
FYI the traction/ESP never fully turns off on those cars. Pushing ESP switch will allow the car to be tested on rolls, but will still act to some degree in real situation.
FYI the traction/ESP never fully turns off on those cars. Pushing ESP switch will allow the car to be tested on rolls, but will still act to some degree in real situation.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
If I had just bought a 85K mile 2002 E430 - good score - there are certain things that need consideration due to age - the good news cowboy - if you start off right - you can drive your E430 forever - and frankly forget ScanSoft for the moment - and get to work to affordably take care of the the basics 1st...
1. From your description "less than a mile from the dealership - heck replace the Brake Light Switch 1st thing - use MB part only - $26 from multiple sources - see stickies here on EZ procedure
2. Replace Fuel filter - Bosch or Mann - $36 plus a few standard hose clamps to replace the MB trickster clamps
3. Dose the fuel tank with 1/2 $9 bottle Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer (Blue)
4. Spray trunk cylinder lock and driver's door cylinder lock with $4 PB Blaster - protect paint from the spray - check operation of your metal emergency key in each lock - do NOT force locks or you can break your key key - repeat PB blaster twice a day/try your key twice a day - until each lock becomes free
5. Especially with E430 and E55 - check each wheel to see if they have wheel locks - and if they have locks - that that in the trunk/spare or in glovebox you have the socket/tool for those wheel locks - it's better to know now you "have locks need unlock tool" than to find out at midnight in the pouring rain somewhere
6. Check for radio code - with radio code and reset instructions from manual (can download pdf Owners Manual from mbusa.com under Owner's Section) disconnect and clean battery connections - then follow reset procedure in manual to reset all accessory systems incl steering angle sensor - each front and rear window - sunroof - and radio - especially each window and sunroof reset to prevent premature failure/blowout of window regulators and/or sunroof mechanism
7. Check rear "cat cans" with rubber mallet - if filled/hear loose catalytic converter junk in there - if a lot consider removing rear cats down the road - dumping out the junk - and reinstall - to prevent the exhaust system choking up.
8. Replace 13-pin "tranny adapter plug" with MB/Mopar original part ONLY - $14 - then pull Transmission Control Module Board - if contaminated clean with $9 can of MAF spray - flood clean both sides and connector - air dry - no heat
9. Do transmission service - correct fluid - correct level - correct procedure
10. Check if locking ring holding ignition cylinder is "tight" - if loose - can use both tips of needle nose or similar to turn notched ring
11. Fresh Mann air filters $12 each
12. Fresh Mann or Hengst "fleece" oil filter $11 with correct oil
13. Fresh MB "blue" coolant - $25 - or Valvoline G05 MB coolant is cheap really - when diluting use distilled water only - no tap water - "old coolant" and "tap water" leads to internal cooling system corrosion - ask the Aussies if you don't believe me..
14. Clean valve cover gasket area - do NOT freak out and replace valve cover gaskets unless they are dripping to the floor - 15 yrs of minor seepage with attracted crud looks serious - but its not - best to keep original valve cover gaskets on there if you can - once you do that vc gasket job once - you will be doing it again every 20K miles after - heaven knows why - its the way of the world
15. Check drive belt system - you "should" have updated belt tensioner design - check belt and idler wheel/thingys
16. Have front headlight lenses polished if they need it
17. Plan replacing your OE Bosch spark plugs - with OE single electrode Bosch plugs - like $75 for the best deal for your 16 plugs - you will need to buy "Mercedes Boot Removal" wrench/thing and slim wall swivel socket if you want to get thru this project in a reasonable afternoon without banging your hands up - or beating up your MB
That's a solid start .... freaking CHEAP to start right if your starting the road to drive another 200K miles in your E430 - your car can do it !
1. From your description "less than a mile from the dealership - heck replace the Brake Light Switch 1st thing - use MB part only - $26 from multiple sources - see stickies here on EZ procedure
2. Replace Fuel filter - Bosch or Mann - $36 plus a few standard hose clamps to replace the MB trickster clamps
3. Dose the fuel tank with 1/2 $9 bottle Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer (Blue)
4. Spray trunk cylinder lock and driver's door cylinder lock with $4 PB Blaster - protect paint from the spray - check operation of your metal emergency key in each lock - do NOT force locks or you can break your key key - repeat PB blaster twice a day/try your key twice a day - until each lock becomes free
5. Especially with E430 and E55 - check each wheel to see if they have wheel locks - and if they have locks - that that in the trunk/spare or in glovebox you have the socket/tool for those wheel locks - it's better to know now you "have locks need unlock tool" than to find out at midnight in the pouring rain somewhere
6. Check for radio code - with radio code and reset instructions from manual (can download pdf Owners Manual from mbusa.com under Owner's Section) disconnect and clean battery connections - then follow reset procedure in manual to reset all accessory systems incl steering angle sensor - each front and rear window - sunroof - and radio - especially each window and sunroof reset to prevent premature failure/blowout of window regulators and/or sunroof mechanism
7. Check rear "cat cans" with rubber mallet - if filled/hear loose catalytic converter junk in there - if a lot consider removing rear cats down the road - dumping out the junk - and reinstall - to prevent the exhaust system choking up.
8. Replace 13-pin "tranny adapter plug" with MB/Mopar original part ONLY - $14 - then pull Transmission Control Module Board - if contaminated clean with $9 can of MAF spray - flood clean both sides and connector - air dry - no heat
9. Do transmission service - correct fluid - correct level - correct procedure
10. Check if locking ring holding ignition cylinder is "tight" - if loose - can use both tips of needle nose or similar to turn notched ring
11. Fresh Mann air filters $12 each
12. Fresh Mann or Hengst "fleece" oil filter $11 with correct oil
13. Fresh MB "blue" coolant - $25 - or Valvoline G05 MB coolant is cheap really - when diluting use distilled water only - no tap water - "old coolant" and "tap water" leads to internal cooling system corrosion - ask the Aussies if you don't believe me..
14. Clean valve cover gasket area - do NOT freak out and replace valve cover gaskets unless they are dripping to the floor - 15 yrs of minor seepage with attracted crud looks serious - but its not - best to keep original valve cover gaskets on there if you can - once you do that vc gasket job once - you will be doing it again every 20K miles after - heaven knows why - its the way of the world
15. Check drive belt system - you "should" have updated belt tensioner design - check belt and idler wheel/thingys
16. Have front headlight lenses polished if they need it
17. Plan replacing your OE Bosch spark plugs - with OE single electrode Bosch plugs - like $75 for the best deal for your 16 plugs - you will need to buy "Mercedes Boot Removal" wrench/thing and slim wall swivel socket if you want to get thru this project in a reasonable afternoon without banging your hands up - or beating up your MB
That's a solid start .... freaking CHEAP to start right if your starting the road to drive another 200K miles in your E430 - your car can do it !
The following users liked this post:
lenobleb (01-31-2018)
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hey,
So after driving in some snow and slippery conditions, my car has fixed itself. No more ABS, BAS, ESP lights. I don't need to turn off ESP. I think my car learned what low traction feels like and all the sensors calibrated. More than likely it was just fixed by driving it more. This car had been doing a lot of sitting around. Driving it makes me (and it) happy.
Now on to perform basic preventative maintenance.
Thanks,
Barry
So after driving in some snow and slippery conditions, my car has fixed itself. No more ABS, BAS, ESP lights. I don't need to turn off ESP. I think my car learned what low traction feels like and all the sensors calibrated. More than likely it was just fixed by driving it more. This car had been doing a lot of sitting around. Driving it makes me (and it) happy.
Now on to perform basic preventative maintenance.
Thanks,
Barry
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#8
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Electronics don't fix itself, but could be you had dirt on reluctor rings that come off with some driving. Inspect the rings with next service.