How to change crank seal when changing harmonic damper?
06-16-2018, 11:10 AM
#1
How to change crank seal when changing harmonic damper?
Hi - my harmonic damper is failing on my 2001 E320 so I've ordered the parts to change it out, looks pretty easy. A few posts that I've seen mention that I should change the crank seal at the same time, but I've not been able to find anything that shows how to do this. Any tips? I ordered the seal along with the damper, bolt, and new belt. Thanks!
06-16-2018, 09:24 PM
#3
Thanks - do you mean the harmonic dampener job or the seal? I'm pretty mechanical and have ordered the special tool to hold the dampener in place. As for the seal, I found a related link that makes the seal job look pretty easy (pry out with a screwdriver, then tap new one in place). https://workshop-manuals.com/mercede...eal/page_6410/
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by bison; 06-17-2018 at 01:29 PM.
06-17-2018, 01:22 PM
#4
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
MB crankshaft seals do have 30 years of life expectancy, so IMHO the advise is 40 years old 
Meaning- would that be me, I would just inspect the seal and if it doesn't show any mechanical damage- reuse it.
Replacing it brings higher risk of damaging something than reusing the old seal.
The job doesn't have to be easy. I was removing front bolt on my diesel and had to use 4-foot extension on breaker bar to get about 500 ft-lb breaking torque. 'It will be easy when you get good tools.
Beware of out of control members asking for VIN. They don't need it to answer the question.
Meaning- would that be me, I would just inspect the seal and if it doesn't show any mechanical damage- reuse it.
Replacing it brings higher risk of damaging something than reusing the old seal.
The job doesn't have to be easy. I was removing front bolt on my diesel and had to use 4-foot extension on breaker bar to get about 500 ft-lb breaking torque. 'It will be easy when you get good tools.
Beware of out of control members asking for VIN. They don't need it to answer the question.
06-23-2018, 04:06 PM
#6
Well it went pretty well. Not easy to get the bolt off but nothing a bit of mechanical advantage couldn't solve (pipe as an extension to my breaker bar). Really helped to have the special tool to hold the harmonic balancer. I popped the old seal out with a screwdriver and tapped the new one in place using a short piece of ABS plastic pipe. I tapped it in gently until it seemed to bottom out a bit deeper than flush with the front of the block, is that correct? Maybe it was 1/16" or a bit less deeper than flush, even all the way around.
Put on the new balancer and bolt, torqued to 150 ft-lb, then again a bear to get it an additional 90 degrees. Back together quickly thereafter, put on a new belt and fired it up. Looks good!
Put on the new balancer and bolt, torqued to 150 ft-lb, then again a bear to get it an additional 90 degrees. Back together quickly thereafter, put on a new belt and fired it up. Looks good!
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kajtek1 (06-24-2018)
