Advice on Repairing Rust...or not
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Advice on Repairing Rust...or not
I’d like some opinions on my rust dilemma. My car 5 or 6 rust spots, mostly superficial, except for one that looks very deep and will require cutting for sure. High end Shop in Riverdale asked 5K and told me NOT to do it since it wouldn't add to the value of the car. Also high end body shop by Yankee Stadium asked for at least 3K and told me not to do it for the same reason. Last body shop on Jerome Avenue, a guy with less equipment and just working with two other guys for over 10 years asked for 1,200 but can be negotiated to 1K. Guy from 2nd shop told me to avoid "those guys from Jerome since they are all butchers", but I've seen this guy's work and it's good. I'm doing it to feel better about the car and because I really enjoy the car and want to do right by it. I don't expect to get my money back if, and when I sell.
That amount includes fixing the hood chips, the rear bumper, and the discoloration of the roof rails.
The question is should I fix or leave it as is and just ignore it?
I'm using the Apple adapter to provide an idea of size. A quarter coin may not be recognizable to our MB brothers overseas.
That amount includes fixing the hood chips, the rear bumper, and the discoloration of the roof rails.
The question is should I fix or leave it as is and just ignore it?
I'm using the Apple adapter to provide an idea of size. A quarter coin may not be recognizable to our MB brothers overseas.
Last edited by CarlitoE430; 01-03-2019 at 08:30 PM.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you love the car and plan on keeping it, they i say do it. If you foresee you only having this car for a few more years or less, i wouldn't bother.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
NY, winter salt and nice cars dont mix and match very well imo.
The large rust spots and rust bubbling is cancer; It's going to continue to eat away the metal and there's nothing you can do about it except grind and cut it out. And if you ONLY grind it down to clean metal (highly doubtful), it will eventually bubble back up in a couple of years (based on your geographical location). It's $$ vs. your love for this w210.
If you're $1k quote can clean up what you've shown (more or less), that's better than your DIY and way better than the $3K+ quotes (economics prevail unless you have $$ to burn, better off looking for a westcoast replacement at those prices)
The scratch photo.... that can be cut polish and buffed back. The roof rails, they can be removed and easily redone.
The speck cancer, I've used a product called rust converter after meticulously etching the spot and then using oem touch up paint with a very, very fine brush just (in a warm controlled environment) for those speckles on the hood and elsewhere. It worked fine and has held up over the years. Still have a colleague of mine come in annually to do his wonders on the exterior finish.
Mind you, we're on the westcoast... don't have alot of winter salt use and the extreme cold weather conditions you have on the eastcoast. AND garage these machines in a heated enclosure.
The large rust spots and rust bubbling is cancer; It's going to continue to eat away the metal and there's nothing you can do about it except grind and cut it out. And if you ONLY grind it down to clean metal (highly doubtful), it will eventually bubble back up in a couple of years (based on your geographical location). It's $$ vs. your love for this w210.
If you're $1k quote can clean up what you've shown (more or less), that's better than your DIY and way better than the $3K+ quotes (economics prevail unless you have $$ to burn, better off looking for a westcoast replacement at those prices)
The scratch photo.... that can be cut polish and buffed back. The roof rails, they can be removed and easily redone.
The speck cancer, I've used a product called rust converter after meticulously etching the spot and then using oem touch up paint with a very, very fine brush just (in a warm controlled environment) for those speckles on the hood and elsewhere. It worked fine and has held up over the years. Still have a colleague of mine come in annually to do his wonders on the exterior finish.
Mind you, we're on the westcoast... don't have alot of winter salt use and the extreme cold weather conditions you have on the eastcoast. AND garage these machines in a heated enclosure.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's a 17 year old car. Unless you plan on keeping it for a few more years, I wouldn't bother...won't add anything to the resale of the vehicle. It's obviously seen hard NY winters, so it will never be a collectors car.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thats a real tuff one, thats pretty widespread throughout the car, the door scratch should be able to be buffed out. The rest is cancer and would easily cost more to fix than the cars worth. Im going to give you the best advice and your not going to like it. ... that cars to far gone in rust repair to be equitable to fix, the driver door already doesnt match and silver is hard to match correct. There is no way to blend all of those spots will look good to someone that knows. Bite the bullet sell the car and pay an extra 3-4k for a car that doesnt have those issues. I told you my buddy has one that looks showrm w 55k miles and Im pretty sure 6-7k would have bought it.
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#8
Member
Thread Starter
1bad540, thanks for your sincere advice.
The car is in pristine mechanical condition and for what I paid for it, I think I got a good deal. The rust is noticeable to the discerning eye. Most people don’t notice it.
I rationalize it by saying that for the money I paid, I could have had no rust body and bad mechanical or some rust and great mechanical. I’m happier this way.
The car is in pristine mechanical condition and for what I paid for it, I think I got a good deal. The rust is noticeable to the discerning eye. Most people don’t notice it.
I rationalize it by saying that for the money I paid, I could have had no rust body and bad mechanical or some rust and great mechanical. I’m happier this way.
Last edited by CarlitoE430; 12-19-2018 at 11:26 AM.
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
It will only grow during the 2-4 years.
Could be repaired by hand- chip off paint - sand area - prime area - touch up paint.
Is that single stage paint or clear coated? looks like clear based on first pic where clear is delaminated and peeling off.
Think of it as quality time with car.
Could get by with rattle can if you tape it off good and then cut it in with 2000 grit paper and buffer.
also drive door does not look right. was it ever painted or re-hung as it just does not look right
Lines are off - out at top front and in at front bottom.
Could be repaired by hand- chip off paint - sand area - prime area - touch up paint.
Is that single stage paint or clear coated? looks like clear based on first pic where clear is delaminated and peeling off.
Think of it as quality time with car.
Could get by with rattle can if you tape it off good and then cut it in with 2000 grit paper and buffer.
also drive door does not look right. was it ever painted or re-hung as it just does not look right
Lines are off - out at top front and in at front bottom.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
U cannot repair any of that by hand and have it look good. Rust is always a no go on a car for me. Certain mechanicals can be repired cheaply but rust and the look of the car cannot. how many miles are on the car? Looks to be about a $2500 car if you could repaint the car and still be into it around 5k id say your doing ok.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
I will ponder on the finality of the rust problem and in the future look to trade it in for a Wagon as I also need the extra space for my family. I will look not very aggressively, but little by little I'm going to start reaching out to dealers in the East.
Life is just too short.
Life is just too short.
Last edited by CarlitoE430; 12-20-2018 at 10:56 PM.