Steering wheel shakes
07-11-2019, 09:24 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Steering wheel shakes
Hi.
If I brake hard and fast (in emergency situation) from 60-70 mph to 0 mph, the steering wheel shake quite a bit.
The steering wheel does not shake if I brake gradually (normal situation).
Usually that tells me that a brake rotor is provably warp, the question is how do I know if it is the front or rear rotors doing this?
Also, is this also a symptom of inner/outer tie rods going bad?
The reason why I am mentioning this is because my mechanic mentioned that they are starting to go bad the last time it was in the shop.
Thanks.
If I brake hard and fast (in emergency situation) from 60-70 mph to 0 mph, the steering wheel shake quite a bit.
The steering wheel does not shake if I brake gradually (normal situation).
Usually that tells me that a brake rotor is provably warp, the question is how do I know if it is the front or rear rotors doing this?
Also, is this also a symptom of inner/outer tie rods going bad?
The reason why I am mentioning this is because my mechanic mentioned that they are starting to go bad the last time it was in the shop.
Thanks.
07-12-2019, 02:35 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Rear rotors usually would not cause hard braking shimmy as the majority of the power braking is performed in front. Check rotor for wear/grooves/ thickness tolerance according to factory specs etc. Check list is the same for rotors out back.
Play is the symptom for tie rods. 9 and 3 o clock on the elevated tire and rock tire side to side. Any popping or excessive play is sure sign. Also visually see the inners/outers while rocking the tire side to side to see excessive play. Mine never seemed to hold an alignment so when I did mine I did inners, outers as well as ball joint and alignment-both sides. When I DIY, I'm a do it all while Im there kinda guy. Worn outers are like limp noodles. Click clamps on dust boot are odd, but if you plan to do none of this, your mechanic should be able to handle it. Tool is like $20 if you DIY. I used worm clamps as Mercedes wanted to charge me $60 to simply click mine back together during alignment. F that. Literally just squeezing pliers labor.
Ball joints are 12 and 6 oclock, prying upwards with crow bar and same inspection as above. While there check sway bar bushing for wear. Bushings give you a rattling, loose sound over speed bumps.
After doing all of that, firmed everything up and car drove straight.
Play is the symptom for tie rods. 9 and 3 o clock on the elevated tire and rock tire side to side. Any popping or excessive play is sure sign. Also visually see the inners/outers while rocking the tire side to side to see excessive play. Mine never seemed to hold an alignment so when I did mine I did inners, outers as well as ball joint and alignment-both sides. When I DIY, I'm a do it all while Im there kinda guy. Worn outers are like limp noodles. Click clamps on dust boot are odd, but if you plan to do none of this, your mechanic should be able to handle it. Tool is like $20 if you DIY. I used worm clamps as Mercedes wanted to charge me $60 to simply click mine back together during alignment. F that. Literally just squeezing pliers labor.
Ball joints are 12 and 6 oclock, prying upwards with crow bar and same inspection as above. While there check sway bar bushing for wear. Bushings give you a rattling, loose sound over speed bumps.
After doing all of that, firmed everything up and car drove straight.
Last edited by Tall Giraffe; 07-12-2019 at 02:38 AM.
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mrtonyn (07-12-2019)
