what does your RPM read at?
My 98 (5 speed) RPM reads 3000 at 85 mph.
My 98 (5 speed) RPM reads 3000 at 85 mph.
Other factors could be the ratio of the rear end and your tire / wheel size.
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In the 4 speed, 3rd gear is 1:1 with the 4th gear being the overdrive or 0.8:1. With the 5 speed, 4th gear is 1:1 and 5th is 0.8:1.
So the big difference is the ratio of the rear differential because at those speeds, both transmissions would be at 1:1 or in overdrive at 0.8:1.
The 96 has the 4 speed transmission but 97 and on has the 5 speed.
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My 98 (5 speed) RPM reads 3000 at 85 mph.
They did not go to overdrive transmissions until the 726.x series which are the driver-adaptive-electronic-solenoid 5-speeds we all know and love.
So.... I have a 300SDL with a 2.88, and I'm humming along the highway at about 3000 at 70 mph.
I have a very high stalling torque convertor. I'd imagine the '96 E320 has a looseness in it's torque convertor as well. Do you?
Everything seems normally proportioned to me for you folks.
01 = In-car temp sensor
02 = outside temp sensor
03 = left heat exchanger (heater core) temp sensor
04 = right heat exchanger sensor
05 = evaporator sensor
06 = coolant temp
07 = refrig. pressure in bar
08 = refrig temp sensor (23*9 = 23.9deg C)
09 = nothing
10 = Blower control voltage (great for evaluating blower controller problems)
11 = emissions sensor (B31) e.g. 3.1 = 31.v
12 = sun sensor 4.2 = 4.2v
20 = aux fan control 6.1 = 6.1ma (max 10ma)
21 = engine speed
22 = vehicle speed
23 = Circuit 58d e.g. 99 = 99% of battery voltage
24 = BATTERY VOLTAGE e.g. 12.5 = 12.5v
30 = left rear air conditioning heat exchanger temp sensor (not all vehicles; obviously)
31 = right side
32 = rear evap temp sensor
33 = blower control voltage rear 0.8(MIN) - 6.0(MAX)
34 = left rear temp selector
35 = right side
38 = software status e.g. 37 rear air conditioning
38 = hardware status e.g. 37 , rear air conditioning
40 = control module version software status (?)
41 = control module version menu hardware status
42 = control module variant code 1st number
43 = variant code second number.
Since your '96 has the four speed tranny, and fourth gear is direct drive ( 1 to 1 ) and your rear-end ratio is 3.07 according to the official MBZ website, your multiply that 3.07 figure times the number of revs that the stock size Michelin tire turns which is 814, and that is the correct rpm at 60 mph, or 2499 rpm.
Divide that figure by 60, you'll get 41.6496 for each mph, and multiple by 70, equals 2915 rpm.
Now there is slippage contrary to what many will, and have argued
of the T/C not locking up, it will be difficult to see that exact figure.
In other words, you'll not see a steady tach reading with your car.
Even with the C/R set, in my car I see 200 + or - of its figure of 2428 rpms depending on terrain, wind, etc.
By the way, the new W-211 CDIs have gone to a rather "tall" ratio of 2.65, and I noticed the difference right away as soon as we went for a test drive from my '99 E-300 which has 3.08s with the overdrive equipped five speed.
It seems the factory types final got that figured out correctly.
The new W-211 E-320 CDI has ratios of 2.65 X 0.83 (overdrive fifth gear) X 810 (225/55-16s) for only 1782 rpm at 60 mph, or 2079 at 70 mph, and it definitely does lock up the T/C in that vehicle. It's about time! My '99 E-300 turns 2428 at 70, so you can see the diifference. Also, mine does not lock up!
Even though the difference is only 350 rpm, that difference should make for a much more relaxed high-speed cruise!
HTHs
Last edited by Green E-300 DT; Jul 28, 2004 at 01:43 PM.
Since your '96 has the four speed tranny, and fourth gear is direct drive ( 1 to 1 ) and your rear-end ratio is 3.07 according to the official MBZ website, your multiply that 3.07 figure times the number of revs that the stock size Michelin tire turns which is 814, and that is the correct rpm at 60 mph, or 2499 rpm.
Divide that figure by 60, you'll get 41.6496 for each mph, and multiple by 70, equals 2915 rpm.
Hehe...Talk about slippage. In my SDL, I can get 2800 rpms in 4th at 40 mph, 2900 rpms at 50 and 60 mph, at 70 3200 rpms, 80 3500 rpms, and every bit past that the TC locks up more and more. The slippage earlier on, is enough to make people in the passenger seat think the car jumped down a gear or two, lol.
The torque in the 3.0 liter OM60x diesel series engines is usually way up high. Thus the slippage.
Here is a dyno sheet of a specially tuned version.....

go here
Last edited by E-Klasse; Jul 28, 2004 at 06:45 PM.
Here is an example of 60x lockup.
http://www.ejzcars.com/TCLockupOnly.mov
(seems we're diverging into two related but seperate topics in one thread. Thanks for the codes, I think I'll use them next time I give the 119 a run-around).
It matters not what the Bergwerks chart says, or what anyone else says for that matter; It is what gears are actually in the car that counts! :v
According to the official MBUSA charts, this car in question has 3.08s. See:
http://www.mbusa.com/brand/container...45678&menu=5_3
To be sure, anyone can crawl under the back end and read the actual ratio that is plainly stamped on the lower right hand corner of the differential case.
His '96 E-320 four speed automatic equipped car in fourth gear which is direct drive, or one to one ratio, is the same as my '99 E-300 when running in fourth speed. I checked mine this afternoon, and at a steady speed of 70 mph when locked in fourth speed, my tach reads almost 3000 rpm on level ground using the C/R. And mine does have the 3.08 ratio, but the MBZ site has mine listed as having 3.46s. And that is incorrect! The factory does make mistakes. I know of two others like mine that also have the same ratios. Upshifting to fifth gear which is 0.83 (overdrive,) and 3000 rpms is about 83 mph.
Wish mine locked up like the new W-211 E-320 CDI does.
The only way to be absolutely sure of what the ratio is on anyones car is to verify the ratio by reading it off of the lower right-hand corner of the differential case. Then you are sure of what that particular car has, unless of course someone has changed out the gears since the original gears were installed, and that is not likely!
It only takes a minute to check, and you don't need to jack up the car. Simply crawl under the back end with a rag and a flashlight, and wipe off the grim on the flat surface, and read what is stamped thereon.
What could be simplier?


