2002 W210(S210 - wagon) CDI270 long cranks but dont start
First of all: i bought this car 8 months ago, and its started about 5-7second. The seller (he lied) said thats cause one glow plug is bad.
One month later: the car dont start, or with very long cranking tries. I bought a BIG new expensive battery, and its solved the problem. Again: autostart after 2 try always fire it up.
3-4 month ago: I parked the car facing uphills. After a sleepover, i cant start it, just with very long cranking. Thats was the O seals. I go for a local mechanic, and he changed the fuel filter... There comes bubbles, but i fixed it. So the 5-10 sec cranking before the engine starts comes back.
2 month ago: i replaced the fuel pressure regulator for a brand new. Nothing changed...
1 month ago: my friend told me he heard something weird noise when i accelerate. So we figured it out its coming from the intake manifold. It was hard, but i changed it for a brand new.
After replacing everything, the car started about 3-4 sec. But its always started up, and runs smoothly and fine.
That day after intake manifold replace i go for a test drive, and in the halfway the car runs hard, and i cant accelerate. I figured it out its dont moving the lamellas. (the rail lose maybe cause the bad road) I fixed it nicely after. (but i needed to take apart everything again to fix that...)
One day later i go for a long trip IT WAS AWESOME(!) , and in a takeover, an air tube (which is before the EGR) dropped out (my bad actually, i dont placed it back correctly!) I fixed that, buts something changed. That was two weeks ago. After that my Intake Manifold moves in "lag" after start (or when i accelerate) but when i drive it and stop and check it DOESNT moves at all, when i accelerate.
I ordered a new MAP sensor, replaced it but the intake manifold doesnt move at all, aand the turbo moving parts doesnt move at all (cant rev over 3K), like the car starts in limp mode. WHen i put back the old one its good, but the intake manifold lamellas still lagging and after drive it doesnt move at all.
The start getting worse by the time after my takeover air tube dropped incident two weeks ago. Now its cant start at all! I cranking it all day, and recharge the battery, and cranking longs... nothing. I checked the crankshaft position sensor, cleaning it, nothing. Then i checked the camshaft position sensor, nothing.
So what i know is good:
- Fuel lines. The injectors get the diesel. The pressure is what i didnt know about it.
- Fuses: I checked it all, they good.
- Starter: The car cranking soo fast with good noise.
- Fuel pressure regulator: 2 month ago replaced.
- EGR/Intake manifold: They clean. but: When the ignite is off i pushed up the rail, and then i rotate the key, itgnition on, the rail comes back automatically, so the electric engine moves good. I dont know really, why it was lagged when the engine started, and after a trip why doesnt move at all. I dont know, i think without this the car should start...
- Battery: Its 100% Okay and strong. The car cranking like hell.
Oh i almost forgot it, the OBD2 Reader sometimes freezing, but a lot tries i can readed two codes: B1010, P227F after erase the B1010 disappears (p227f cant erase), but i dont have time to drive and check again cause it doesnt start [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
So the car now doesnt start at all. So some days later my brand new camshaft and crankshaft position sensors will arrive. I hope they will be the solutions...
The car started in 15-20sec. Some minutes later i turn off and then turn on, its cranking time is 5-7 second... I dont know. The engine started at least.
The intake manifold rail now not moving at all, so the idle rpm is rough... And the car starting time is so loong. 5-7sec...
My friend have almost similar car (hes CDI 220, mine 270) and hes intake manifold rail doesnt move too, but his car starting (with a bad accumulator) like 0-1 sec. So i think the intake manifold rail doesnt have contact with the starting.
Any idea?
Last edited by Merdzso; Apr 28, 2020 at 01:35 PM.
car to a Mercedes Star Diagnostic System multiplexor via the round pin port in the engine compartment. The computer
would attempt to connect with the car's various sensors in order to determine which sensor is indicating a fault.
diagnostic port
Okay, okay i know the scanner isnt good for mercedes. I use it with a OBD2 -> round pin converter..Maybe thats why the car didnt show me the problem and the scanner freezes sometimes...
Replaced seals on injectors, replaced o-rings literally everywhere, there is no air bubbles IN the IN-fuel lines, but in the outline (after the injectors) some little bubbles i see going back to the fuel filter. Somehow its filling the filter with air.
We're filled 2-3 times the fuel filter and the car started about 10-15sec.
But now. Now somethings changed.
The car literally cant start. Were filled the filter full with diesel, charge the battery again and again... Its cranking but wont start.
I pick up two injector, (still connected electric + high pressure lines) to see the nozzles open. But they dont open, its not spraying any diesel out. How is this even possible? Any idea? I talked with a lot people who could solve it for me, but no one can say anything. They didnt wanted to repair, cause they dont know whats wrong... So the car just sit in my backyard.
(Last use was feew weeks ago, i traveled like 400km with no problem. After stop, i cant start again.
Have you tried checking the computer? Ecu. Or hitting the starter? I know you mentioned new parts literally every where but im hoping you get it fixed. I hear even the key ignition button might be a problem.
His case seems troubling and I pray for you too my friend. My car is going through a no start as well.
Codes:
p0072 outside temperature sensor has a short.
p0562 terminal 87 the voltage is too low.
P0715 read out fault memory of control unit etc.
p0418 secondary air injection system control circuit.
Im in the process of changing the fuel pump assembly unit.
Question: Would a mercedes-benz car w211 2007 e350 not start if there is a temperature sensor short circuit problem such as it saying 185 degrees?
I know people can test the fuel pump with a pressure test but it sounds good and the lines seems good so far.
Question: If the fuel pump or Starter is actually bad would it show up in the codes such as it saying bad fuel pump / starter or some sort?
It has motor oil, transmission oil, new battery, new harmonic balancer, new belt, and a new alternator.
It has gas in it as well. So you see my friend, both our cars or at least mine I hope is not starting and these are what I thought about to help your situation as well.






