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99’ mercedes e320 battery drain and remote control not working
hey lads, this is gonna be a long one because I am so new to this.
I bought a 99 Mercedes E320 and I after I got my mechanic to update it, the remote key stopped working (I changed the battery of the remote and the key starts the car); however, the remote does automatically not unlock and lock the car except for if I manually use the key thingy. I have noticed that the remote loses the red light after a month, is that usually how long the battery lasts?
also, when I open the car manually sometimes an alarm sound starts going off...is that significant?
as if that wasn’t enough, the battery of the entire car began to drain. I don’t think it’s related to the remote but I replaced the driver seat module because it wasn’t working but then a two weeks after the Center control module stopped working and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it worked but the batter still seems to be draining. Out of frustration I hit my horn, and that doesn’t work anymore.
I know this isn’t normal, but am I totally screwed? Anything you can suggest helps a lot. I don't have a tons of options. I am investing in this low km 1999 merc and I would love to use it for the next 3 years.
It's a bit tough to accurately do much with the information since they're a bit general in description rather than clinical or technical. But here is my first take:
Country that the car was marketed in is important...or a VIN identifier provided
Ignition key is presumed to be Smartkey but unknown which model you have.
"Red light" on the key?...or the receiver on the car interior mirror?
What is a 'key thingy?"
Car battery drain is a clear indication the car is experiencing parasitic drain and should be isolated to determine which circuit is causing this. An ammeter is crucial and inserted into suspected circuits until you identify which circuit/device is the root cause. You can start with the circuit that the driver seat module is located.
I'm not sure what the 'center control module' is but that may be due to my lack of knowledge. Photo might help. Someone with more experience can certainly jump in.
You've not provided any car battery voltage so if it is well discharged, that might explain why some of the devices are inoperative. A good healthy voltage should be above 12.5vdc....and should not drop below 12vdc while under load such as cranking the car to start.
The car battery should never be charged with the Smartkey inserted into the ignition. Doing so may disrrupt the connectivity between the key and the ignition system security and destroy the key given what I've read
My Smartkey for 1999 E320 has not been changed in several years. Obviously, how often it is used is a factor on longevity. I have gen1 and gen3.0 for my USA 1999 E320
Car alarm sounding is an indication that the anti-theft circuit is activated and because of this, it will disable other devices in the car. After all, its job is to prevent the car from being operated. It is a good....no, great idea that a auto shop with access to the Mercedes troubleshooting computer help isolate the extent of the trouble codes. Docking of the device is not via the ODB port under the dash but the 38-pin circular port in the engine compartment, inside the huge fuse compartment.
this is a very inexpensive tester I ordered online
It's a bit tough to accurately do much with the information since they're a bit general in description rather than clinical or technical. But here is my first take:
Country that the car was marketed in is important...or a VIN identifier provided
Ignition key is presumed to be Smartkey but unknown which model you have.
"Red light" on the key?...or the receiver on the car interior mirror?
What is a 'key thingy?"
Car battery drain is a clear indication the car is experiencing parasitic drain and should be isolated to determine which circuit is causing this. An ammeter is crucial and inserted into suspected circuits until you identify which circuit/device is the root cause. You can start with the circuit that the driver seat module is located.
I'm not sure what the 'center control module' is but that may be due to my lack of knowledge. Photo might help. Someone with more experience can certainly jump in.
You've not provided any car battery voltage so if it is well discharged, that might explain why some of the devices are inoperative. A good healthy voltage should be above 12.5vdc....and should not drop below 12vdc while under load such as cranking the car to start.
The car battery should never be charged with the Smartkey inserted into the ignition. Doing so may disrrupt the connectivity between the key and the ignition system security and destroy the key given what I've read
My Smartkey for 1999 E320 has not been changed in several years. Obviously, how often it is used is a factor on longevity. I have gen1 and gen3.0 for my USA 1999 E320
Car alarm sounding is an indication that the anti-theft circuit is activated and because of this, it will disable other devices in the car. After all, its job is to prevent the car from being operated. It is a good....no, great idea that a auto shop with access to the Mercedes troubleshooting computer help isolate the extent of the trouble codes. Docking of the device is not via the ODB port under the dash but the 38-pin circular port in the engine compartment, inside the huge fuse compartment.
Wow! Thank you so much for this. Right now I am removing the negative terminal when I park the car and putting it back on when I am about to leave home. The car is starting but I know I need to figure out what is draining the battery first. Weirdly enough, when I started removing the battery and putting it back on, the remote control started working for a bit.
The "key thingy" is the little metal key piece you insert into the key.
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