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Hello to all. My 2000 E430s AC is blowing cool air but not as cold as before. The first readings are after the car sat for a week, the second numbers are after running for 3 minutes. The only trouble code that popped up is B1234 sun sensor. I think it just needs a recharge, it has never been recharged in 22 years. Also I see the selection of r134a without leak sealant is limited. I have read do not use sealant. Thank You for any help you can provide.
1--73---80
2--69---73
3--75---76
4--75---71
5--75---75
6--71---118
7--05---11
8--69---111
9--27---27
10--6.0---6.0
11--3.1---2.6
12--4.3---4.2
20--3.2---3.2
21--32---32
22--00---00
23--32---32
24--11.4---11.4
40--164---164
41--85---85
42--08---08
43--136---136
Mine's the same, and it eventually stops and illuminates the EC light every year or two. Mechanic suspects it's leaking @ the evaporator, a common fault in these models and is buried deep in the dash requiring a very $$ repair. The good news is, an annual recharge costs about $150 with gas and labor. I've limped along in hot-n-humid Atlanta for 6 years with that.. far less than the thousands they want to pull the dash and work on a 23 year old system that may well have more than one leak.
Thanks davmil 2002, it has been 22 years since it was charged, It might be a leak, I am not sure. When I looked at the numbers in the AC stickys I could not confirm where my problem might be with numbers I have.
First - get the readings after the system settles down. 3 minutes isn't enough time. Drive it around and observe the readings for 10 --15 minutes. Second - you are in a relatively cool climate (your ambient - #2 - is 69 to 73 degrees). The system will often add some heat at that ambient, dependent on the system set point, hence the left, right and evap temps - #3,4 & 5 respectively - are close to ambient. My experience with W210s is that if there is substantial leak you won't have much in the system after a month or so after charging. A system that holds enough to last a year has a very small leak (often very hard to locate). In the OPs case, I would get some gauges on the system, add some dye and troubleshoot it properly, not by guessing on the web. After 22 years a leak can be the compressor seal, the evaporator, the condenser, etc. One good indicator if the evaporator is leaking is when the dye shows up in the evaporator drains (the condensate that drips under the car). Most other leaks are external to the HVAC case and are easier to find. Oil residue on the various joints, hoses and components are another indicators. Shops also have devices that check for leaks.
Contrary to some belief, models of that era (W202s, W210s) don't have a widespread history of evaporator leaks, unlike the previous models (W124, W140, etc.). So jumping to that conclusion isn't warranted.
Thank You vinceC. I took it out for a 20 min. drive and this is what I found at idle.
1--80
2--82
3--5
4--44
5--55
6--193
7--driving around about 25 mph up to 60 mph it stayed about 07, when stopped and still idling it went up to 20 and then 11, then back to 07-08 when driving.
8--148
#5 doesn't seem plausible, i.e. 5. #4 is 44, #5 is 55. #5 simply can' be that low.
As a guess I am going to assume that reading is a typo. I am also suspicious of the #7 reading rising to 20 -which is OK, but the falling off to 11 (at idle. anyway), With my assumption in mind I am suggesting you get some gauges on it so you can observe both the high side pressure, which is #7 (in bar) and the low side - which is not available from the pushbutton module. It could be a low charge - certainly plausible after 22 years. At idle on a warm day - 80 degF - you should see approx. 35 psi (2.4 bar) on the low side and approx. 250 psi (17 bar) on the high side. If the system seems in good order except for a low charge I would have the system evacuated and make sure it can hold a vacuum for at least several hours which will confirm that there is no serious leak. Then recharge with 35 oz. of R134a and see how long that holds. If you don't have the tools and skill to do this find a reputable shop.
Oh, my bad. I thought our 210s were part of the suspect evaporator history. Maybe it's just mine.
You obviously have deep & extensive knowledge on MB Air Conditioners. Thanks for enlightening me.
Oh, my bad. I thought our 210s were part of the suspect evaporator history. Maybe it's just mine.
You obviously have deep & extensive knowledge on MB Air Conditioners. Thanks for enlightening me.
I think your approach makes sense. If the leak is that small it is going to be tough to identify. If the leak does get worse, before even considering the evaporator replacement I would but dye in the system and check the evaporator drains. I collect the condensate in a pan and then check for the dye.
I checked on cost of recharge today, around $300. I am going to see if I can barrow some gauges from auto parts store. I took it for a short drive today, 10 blocks and parked with engine running.
1--71
2--84
3--62
4--55
5--73
6--193
7--23, with fluctuations between 7 to 19.
8--161
This is my wife's car so I do not drive it to often. The air is cold but she tells it should be colder. Maybe I am looking for a problem where there is none??? Thank You to all for your input.
I don't know about others, but mine never works(ed) as well as a modern one. My wife & kid's Toyotas will freeze you out irregardless of outside temp. However, properly charged the MB still holds its own in Atlanta summer heat and that is a pretty severe test.
I assume it's part age (mine's 23 yo) and part better technology in newer units.
My last evacuate, vacuum, oil & recharge was like $250 - not that different than your quote.
I drove my 99 E320 for the first time in 24 months this past weekend. I saw that in category 7 it was reading a fat "0". When I got home i found a couple canisters of duPont 12 oz on the shelf so I plugged them in. The reading rose to 14 and I'll watch this for a week to see if it fluctuates. the 134a was part of a 6 pack purchase on sale a few years back - $45 so I was glad to have made the decision to buy them.
Last edited by raymond g-; Sep 7, 2022 at 11:34 AM.
Thanks for the input raymond. I purchased a cheap set of AC gauges from amazon. I am going to look at the low pressure side with the gauge and the high side with the climate control info. I was with the impression not to use R134a with leak sealant, I am fine with the self sealing can of refrigerant. Do they really maintain can pressure in storage after partial use?
By the way I read on one of the stickys not to use the high pressure port because it was prone to leaking. I am not sure if that is true or not? Thank You again everyone.
I have only used the R134a with sealant once. After charging the system pressures were 70psi on the low side and 100psi on the high side and there was no cooling. Initially I thought the expansion valve had failed wide open. After a few days the system started working with normal pressures and cooling. I suspect that sealant clogged some internal port in the expansion valve and caused it to fail wide open temporarily.
R134a branded as SuperTech is virgin, US made refrigerant without oil, dye or sealant It is available on Amazon and at Wall-Mart. I have used the self sealing cans and they seem to hold quite a long time.
In over 30 years I have never had a problem with the high side port.
I brought my used oil down to O'Reilly's this morning and was surprised by this which slipped by me the past year. This was declared verboten by the governor and went into effect last Fall. So I went online to pick up a few spares. A few years back I bought 12 oz Chemours/Dupont for $9. The prevailing cost now is easily $15.
Last edited by raymond g-; Sep 8, 2022 at 04:49 PM.
I am surprised that California did not do it first. It probably will not be long before it is the same here. I wonder what the shelf life is for the refrigerant. Thanks for the heads up Raymond, are you able to get it elsewhere?
Fortunately, unlike something like state gun restrictions, something at the "small container R-134a" ban isn't policed by sellers out of state, or at least low on the radar. I was able to order a dozen Chemfours/dupont cans for $180 shipped. That should cover the cars in the family fleet for the next 5-10 yrs which is the shelf life if kept cool and dry.
By 2030 gas vehicles banned etc in WA anyway and I'll be rocking it and showing off in my new Flintstones car.
I purchased 12oz cans at O'Reilly's for $10.79 + tax with verterans discount. Raymond when you mentioned mail order I looked around and I found a 30lb bottle for $52 and free shipping from a place called Home Store Design. I don't think I need that but I am sure many on the forum might be interested. In 12oz cans it would be $400+.
I'm learning that it is still possible to buy 12 oz cans (R134a equiv to a dime bag) through farm feed stores as an exception was made for livestock folks (probably a strong lobby group). I'm confident that within the coming year there will be a black market or OfferUp....Craigslist where one can rendezvous in an alley near me. Thanks for the tip on the bulk buy.
The latest is I was doing some tests and noticed that the aux. fans in front of condensing unit was not working. Of course I did the hard thing first, jumped 12v directly to fans and they worked fine. Then I did what I should of done first, checked fuses. Fuse #20, 30 amp, left side engine compartment was blown. Replaced fuse fans working. In cases like this I always wonder why did it blow in the first place? Also I noticed when taking temps in the car the center vent went down to around 60 degrees and the left vent down to 50 degrees. I guess I am making some progress. Next, test with gauge set.
I think I am good now. I purchased some AC manifold gauges from Amazon, $35 and 12oz R-134a refrigerant $12. Watched some videos on recharging AC system and is now 47 degrees at vent. Maybe it could be colder but I am happy. Before you draw the new refrigerant into the system be sure to bleed the air out of the charging hose at gauge set before opening low side valve. By the way the sun sensor trouble code has not come back after I cleared it a few weeks ago. Thank You to everyone for your input.
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AC not very cold?
